Track day prep?

[mike@sim-seats]

I'm getting ready to do my first track day with an old car. I have gone through all of the usual work, but I'm curious if there is anything I am overlooking on account of the car being old.

What I've covered so far:
-appropriate brake friction material
-swapped to high temp DOT4 brake fluid
-bled the brakes
-checked tires and alignment
-checked for loose wires/hoses/other lines
-packed spares
-checked or changed all fluids
-safety inspection on the car
-torqued/checked lug-nuts and other critical fasteners

Of course I'll remove all of the loose items once I arrive at the track. I've also packed my usual track kit:
-standard tools
-torque wrench
-IR thermometer
-tire pressure gauge, pyrometer, pump
-spare fluids (coolant, brake fluid, oil)
-jack/jack-stands
-helmet
-drinks and food
-tarp
-cameras
-straps
-zip ties
-flashlight
-multi-meter

I searched for a thread about this, but didn't see anything general, just one or two related to specific concerns for a specific event. Again, it's not my first rodeo, but I've never done it with a car that's nearly 50 years old.

[rustomatic]

Remove the antifreeze. If your cooling system blows on the track, it's like pavement lubricant; it will also get on someone's six-figure car when it sprays behind you (ask me how I know). Tape glass headlights. Remember to have fun and remain calm.

[SSLOW6.0]

I'm getting ready to do my first track day with an old car. I have gone through all of the usual work, but I'm curious if there is anything I am overlooking on account of the car being old.

What I've covered so far:
-appropriate brake friction material
-swapped to high temp DOT4 brake fluid
-bled the brakes
-checked tires and alignment
-checked for loose wires/hoses/other lines
-packed spares
-checked or changed all fluids
-safety inspection on the car
-torqued/checked lug-nuts and other critical fasteners

Of course I'll remove all of the loose items once I arrive at the track. I've also packed my usual track kit:
-standard tools
-torque wrench
-IR thermometer
-tire pressure gauge, pyrometer, pump
-spare fluids (coolant, brake fluid, oil)
-jack/jack-stands
-helmet
-drinks and food
-tarp
-cameras
-straps
-zip ties
-flashlight
-multi-meter

I searched for a thread about this, but didn't see anything general, just one or two related to specific concerns for a specific event. Again, it's not my first rodeo, but I've never done it with a car that's nearly 50 years old.

Sunblock, folding chairs, Fire extinguisher.

[Turbo6inKY]

I'm getting ready to do my first track day with an old car. I have gone through all of the usual work, but I'm curious if there is anything I am overlooking on account of the car being old.

What I've covered so far:
-appropriate brake friction material
-swapped to high temp DOT4 brake fluid
-bled the brakes
-checked tires and alignment
-checked for loose wires/hoses/other lines
-packed spares
-checked or changed all fluids
-safety inspection on the car
-torqued/checked lug-nuts and other critical fasteners

Of course I'll remove all of the loose items once I arrive at the track. I've also packed my usual track kit:
-standard tools
-torque wrench
-IR thermometer
-tire pressure gauge, pyrometer, pump
-spare fluids (coolant, brake fluid, oil)
-jack/jack-stands
-helmet
-drinks and food
-tarp
-cameras
-straps
-zip ties
-flashlight
-multi-meter

I searched for a thread about this, but didn't see anything general, just one or two related to specific concerns for a specific event. Again, it's not my first rodeo, but I've never done it with a car that's nearly 50 years old.

This is all very good.
Check with the track on the anti-freeze thing. rustomatic is right, if you pop the cooling system on track, you'll make a mess and it's hard to clean up.
That said, it's unlikely you'll pop it unless the car is prone to overheating. It's your first time out, you're (hopefully) not going to be going 10/10ths. If they don't prohibit it, don't worry about it. You'll have enough to worry about.

Might want to add a set of front wheel bearings and seals to your spares.

And this list above? Make it into a printed checklist and take it with you. Checklists save lives and equipment.

Also, check your lug torque after the first session.

And have fun!

[mike@sim-seats]

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like nothing special to worry about.

Good call on the coolant.

[BMR Sales]

Bring a Good Attitude!

[CarlC]

Depending on the car, tires, and pan design, keep an eye on the oil pressure if cornering hard. Older stock pans have poor slosh control. Overfilling by one quart is pretty common.

[NOT A TA]

Rags, power steering is occasionally a problem on older cars on track.

[mike@sim-seats]

The steering box and pump are new (LS1 and a jeep box), so I hope I'll be OK there, but rags will be added.

I have the autocraft oil pan with baffels/doors, but I'll watch pressure anyway.

[mike@sim-seats]

I went. It was awesome. Car needs more brakes before I try again. The 12" rotor PBR pieces off of the C4 corvette do good on the street, but it took a long time to haul it down from 100+.

I had one off as a result of getting the red mist as I was reeling in a GT500. Lesson learned.

[groho]

Now that you've ran the car, get underneath and do a post inspection and check your nuts/bolts. I'm not talking brakes, tires, oil, I'm talking fasteners for cross-member and support braces, body bolts, tranny and motor mount, etc. You'd be surprised what comes loose during a hard drive.

[mike@sim-seats]

Now that you've ran the car, get underneath and do a post inspection and check your nuts/bolts. I'm not talking brakes, tires, oil, I'm talking fasteners for cross-member and support braces, body bolts, tranny and motor mount, etc. You'd be surprised what comes loose during a hard drive.

This is good advice. I think the only surprise would be missing fasteners that would make me wonder how I got home.

[Turbo6inKY]

I went. It was awesome. Car needs more brakes before I try again. The 12" rotor PBR pieces off of the C4 corvette do good on the street, but it took a long time to haul it down from 100+.

I had one off as a result of getting the red mist as I was reeling in a GT500. Lesson learned.

Before you go blowing big bucks on giant brakes, check out the pad options available for your calipers.

I've still got tiny 10.75" front discs on mine. At Putnam Park on street pads my first time out, it was a nightmare. I'd get some bite, but then they'd overheat and fade out. Turns 1 and 7 were especially poo-inducing.

I called Hawk, they recommended a race compound pad, and voila, the car was stopping like a champ lap after lap my next track day. I was also turning the rotors bright red, but they worked.

A $100 set of pads and some brake ducting could solve your problem.

[mike@sim-seats]

Before you go blowing big bucks on giant brakes, check out the pad options available for your calipers.

I've still got tiny 10.75" front discs on mine. At Putnam Park on street pads my first time out, it was a nightmare. I'd get some bite, but then they'd overheat and fade out. Turns 1 and 7 were especially poo-inducing.

I called Hawk, they recommended a race compound pad, and voila, the car was stopping like a champ lap after lap my next track day. I was also turning the rotors bright red, but they worked.

A $100 set of pads and some brake ducting could solve your problem.

More solid advice. I run porterfield r4s pads now. I've known lots of peolple using them for track days without issue.

I don't think that heat is part of my problem. I never had any fade. My pedal effort is a bit too high. I am considering going down 1/8" in my master cylinder bore if I can find a good part that isn't expensive.

Also, I spent a lot of time wondering why my rear brakes lock up first. I have the bias set as much to the front as possible. I think m problem may be related to weight transfer. I'm looking into some better shocks than the kyb stuff I have now.