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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      116

      Cutting Stainless Steel

      First time fabbing an exhaust, I have a box of 3" mandrel bends, a tig welder and a 7" cut-off wheel. I have read countless threads elsewhere about what to use to cut stainless and while the Makita LC1230 with a stainless steel specific blade would be great it looks like its only for straight cuts? The pipe has to be clamped-down tight to use this saw so I'm not sure how it would work with these big mandrel bend pieces? Anyways, a large industrial band saw is not an option, but I do have this 7" cut-off wheel tool and was thinking maybe I could use this and a sanding disc made for the same tool? Anyone have advise for getting good straight cuts? All I need to do is go from the downpipes to the tailpipes so its not a full front-to-back job. I just can't see spending a fortune on tools to cut this crap for one job.

      Mike
      86 Buick GN, Stage 2 V6, Twin EFR Turbos

    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      I am using cut off wheels from homer and a mini pneumatic saws all, you need tight cuts and 1/16" rod for a functional tig weld. Good luck

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      2,313
      Country Flag: Canada
      I like to use a hack saw for something like this. It is tedious but you can cut a good straight line if you cut a bit at a time and rotate the piece in the vice.
      It also takes me longer to screw up.

      Ken
      If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
      My other car is a Vega.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      I used a cutoff wheel and rotated in a vise also. You'll have to grind then file your edges post cut and take your time.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,603
      Country Flag: United States
      Band saw.

      Mark the cut with masking tape, fix any minor errors with a belt sander.

      http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ustom-headers/
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      116
      Cutting the small diameter SS is fairly easy with a Rigid tubing cutter but the 3" diameter is a whole new ball game. I cut my 2" SS wastegate tubes and it was a breeze with the Rigid tool plus it self-aligns eliminating the need for a custom fixture and band saw. I also have one of those dumb-ass "chain" type exhaust cutters to properly "mark" the tube for cuts but the Stainless tube laughs at that stupid little tool. The chain-type cutter is for mild steel. Hack saw, no that's not going to happen but it would be fine for mild steel or aluminized steel.

      Mike
      86 Buick GN, Stage 2 V6, Twin EFR Turbos

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      116
      You were right Ken, after screwing around with my 7" cut-off wheel it was just not happening (anything close to straight). So I grabbed a hose clamp and a 32 tpi hacksaw blade and cut like a madman today. I almost completed 1 side in 3 hrs. Just 2 more cuts to the muffler then its on to side 2. It was not as hard as I thought to cut with the hack saw and one heck of a lot cheaper than a Mikita saw. I am using a air powered die grinder with sanding rolls to smooth it after cutting.
      But then I wised-up and went to Harbor Freight and bought a 130.00 portable band saw and mounted it to a Swag table. The band saw cuts through the SS like butta. For such a cheap price it sure works great.





      Mike
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      86 Buick GN, Stage 2 V6, Twin EFR Turbos

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Posts
      107
      Quote Originally Posted by Hemi8 View Post
      You were right Ken, after screwing around with my 7" cut-off wheel it was just not happening (anything close to straight). So I grabbed a hose clamp and a 32 tpi hacksaw blade and cut like a madman today. I almost completed 1 side in 3 hrs. Just 2 more cuts to the muffler then its on to side 2. It was not as hard as I thought to cut with the hack saw and one heck of a lot cheaper than a Mikita saw. I am using a air powered die grinder with sanding rolls to smooth it after cutting.
      But then I wised-up and went to Harbor Freight and bought a 130.00 portable band saw and mounted it to a Swag table. The band saw cuts through the SS like butta. For such a cheap price it sure works great.





      Mike
      Mike,
      How well does you setup cut the 3" SS, was it T304? I'm about to start doing my exhaust and looking for a good setup. This is what I bought off e-bay, cheap, cuts metal great, but not SS. Kicks the blade off every time.

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    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
      Posts
      1,107
      Country Flag: United States


      Using this to cut my 304 SS exhaust pipe!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2017
      Posts
      67
      Country Flag: United States

      Cutting Stainless Steel

      Cut it big then sand it flat straight !!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Posts
      107
      Quote Originally Posted by GRNOVA View Post


      Using this to cut my 304 SS exhaust pipe!
      That would be nice.....

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      I made a band saw fixture with different sized positioning blocks (machined out of UHMW) that fit the various inside radius' for my stainless exhaust build. There is no need to cut the part and sand it when you can cut exactly what you need, de-burr with a file, tack it together and weld it up. I installed some guide rails on the small band saw and the plate just feeds into the blade. The tubing is easily held against the block as you cut. My Port-a-band can handle 3 1/2" tube with the .400' thick plate. Fairly simple to build, saves a ton of time fitting tubes.

      Hope this helps a little.

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    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Crown Point, Indiana
      Posts
      1,107
      Country Flag: United States
      That is a great idea here is what I use to mark the angles.






      I also made these holders for positioning and holding pipes while I mock up.






    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow a lot of great ideas in this thread. Nice idea for the magnetic holders.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Posts
      107
      Might have to steal that idea as well...







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