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    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Posts
      185

      Rebuilt engine sat unused for 11 years - What should I do before using?

      I have a small block chevy that was built in 2006 and sat in the garage all these years wrapped in plastic. I haven't done anything to it except for periodically turning the crank a bit every few months. I want to finally put it in the car. What do I need to worry about? Anything that should warrant tearing it down and replacing gaskets or seals? Or?

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Northwestern NJ
      Posts
      342
      My engine's been on a stand for a while, too. Subscribing!

      Tommy


      Tommy Souren

      "The older I get, the faster I was."

      Grandma's 20k mile '80 Malibu Classic, in-progress factory style LS6 454, Legend LGT 700 5 speed, 9" 3.70 posi, Global West suspension, 12"/11" discs.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      I assume whoever assembled it was smart enough to use proper assembly lube and it has been sealed from dirt while stored. If so then just install it and before you stab the distributor, prime the oil pump with a drill before starting it for the first time. Gaskets and seals should be unaffected since they last for years in service. Since you said you have rotated it periodically you probably won't have any rust on the cylinder walls but I would spray some WD40 in through the plug holes before starting just to be safe.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      538
      Probably worth looking at the cylinder walls to see if there is any rust. I've heard rust could prevent the rings on a new motor from sealing properly.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Location
      Jacksonville, AR
      Posts
      12
      Country Flag: United States
      It wouldn't hurt to spray some PB Blaster or equivalent down the plug holes, let it soak then hand rotate the assembly. Last thing you need is piston or ring damage on start up. I have a borescope from Harbor Freight I use to inspect cylinder walls with when I'm at the wrecking yards looking for donor engines...

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      You can almost be assured at minimum there will be some surface rust on the cylinder walls after that amount of time. Mix a small amount of WD40 with transmission fluid and pour it into each cylinder. If you don't have it on an engine stand where you can put the cylinder banks level with the ground then get one of those metal hand pump squirt cans and squirt the mixture in so it gets up on the high side of the pistons so you get complete coverage, let it soak for a couple days and rotate the engine a few full revolutions. Do this periodically until you install the engine. Before firing the engine try to get as much of the excess trans fluid out as you can. Don't need to get it all out...it will just smoke for a few minutes when you fire it up. No biggie.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      New Bedford Mass
      Posts
      65
      i would pull the distributor and either use a drill and an old distributor shaft or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...FZWEswodjGMPaQ oil primer kit. Install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and make sure you got 30-40 psi. If you ran a large lift camshaft.. plus 600 lift i would pull the valve springs and check them. better to be safe than sorry. If it was a normal build i would not worry.
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-touring-build

      follow our high school student build this pro touring nova.

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    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, Tx
      Posts
      495
      Country Flag: United States
      I had one which sat for 5 years. I installed and drove it ok for about 6 months. First trip to the chassis dyno, first pull, it broke a valve spring around 4500 rpm (not high). After posting about this, I was told by multiple sources that after that long, I should have replaced the valve springs.

      Now you mention that your turned the engine over once in a while. Did you go back to the same spot it was before you started turning?

      After my experience, I would replace the springs. You may be just fine, but dropping a valve sucks...

      Bryan (a.k.a. Carbuff)

      70 Camaro RS Hunk'o'Metal - Previous Project
      71 Firebird Project T.O.W. - New Project






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