DEI535 pwr window controller

[jsg]

What are you trying to accomplish with the power relays Steve? If you just want to take the load off of stock power window switches, then the modules go after the relays and they should work just fine. I didn't use relays on mine with aftermarket motors and DEI modules but I used all new switches and made my own harness with bigger wire. I'll attach a pic and you can see the switches in the center. I used a panel from a Mini Cooper. Kinda hard to see in the pic. You gotta be a certain kinda of crazy for electrical lol. I fit right in.

I was concerned about the motors getting enough juice. But, I tend to go overkill on most things, so I suspect it's not needed. I'm going to run my original "positive only" switches (because they're fancy chrome and match the interior), then relays after that for the voltage reversing for the modules, then the modules to the motors. I read somewhere of someone using a dc voltage amp to increase the speed of the windows. So if it's a problem, I can always add that later.

I'm currently debating if I want to make guide rollers out of PTFE instead of replacing them with the factory style. Again, over-engineering is kinda my issue.

[jsg]

BTW great pics of the pw motors. Glad to see they'll fit. You're right about the cost of stock rebuilts. You can get all 4 new style for the price of 1 old style. No brainer there. Can you get some video of how fast it moves before and after? That would be a good visual.

Alex

I'd like to have, but my windows never worked. I later figured out there was no juice from the fuse box, because that guy is rusty from a old windshield leak. That's another project, replacing that fuse box with a bunch of aircraft circuit breakers. Got the parts, just need to get to wiring!

[H2Ogbodies]

I know on the 3rd gen f-bodies I measured about 4 seconds down and 7 seconds up then after the relay upgrade w/auto down and up speed went to 2 down and 4 up. Nearly 50% increase in performance overall.

[LS1-IROC]

H2O..I sent you a PM. Thanks

[jsg]

I'm trying to figure out how to get one touch modules for up and down using the old style positive only switch, going through relays to interface with the modules, and then going to the reversing polarity motor. Attached is a wiring diagram I made, i'm trying to figure out if it will work like this.

[CapSS92]

Does the switch output positive when you hit it? If so, the only thing I can see is that you have power across 85 and 86 which wouldn't trigger the relays. You would have to ground 86. If it outputs a ground signal when you activate the switch then you should be good.

[jsg]

The switch is set to output positive like original setup. How could I get the switch to output ground? I'm not that great with electric, other than accidently letting the smoke leak out sometimes.

[CapSS92]

Don't do that!!! You'll never get all the smoke back in. ;) I think you would be fine with the switches putting out positive. Just keep terminals 87 hooked up to power. But take the 86 and 85 you have hooked up together to power and put them to ground instead. That way the positive trigger from the switch will turn on the relays. Good design on using terminal 87a to keep the motors grounded. That's a good solution.

Alex

[blitzer454]

Your circuit would work as is, except you need to replace your current switch with a SPDT Mom-Off-Mom switch and rewire the relays. A SPDT switch has 3 terminals. In your case the common terminal would be connected to ground and the other two terminals would be connected to pin 85 of each relay respectively. Pin 86 of both relays needs to be connected to the switched battery supply. When the switch is pressed in either the up or down position it will provide ground to the the relay coil thereby energizing the coil in just one of the relays.

[jsg]

Don't do that!!! You'll never get all the smoke back in. ;) I think you would be fine with the switches putting out positive. Just keep terminals 87 hooked up to power. But take the 86 and 85 you have hooked up together to power and put them to ground instead. That way the positive trigger from the switch will turn on the relays. Good design on using terminal 87a to keep the motors grounded. That's a good solution.

Alex

I can't take credit for the solenoid part, I copied it from the12volt.com, a schematic to run a power lock actuator. I was told by a gentleman from another forum that's what I needed to be able to run my old switches with a reversing motor. I'll give this a shot in a couple of days, and see what burns. I mean, works.

[CapSS92]

Awesome keep us updated.

[jsg]

Your circuit would work as is, except you need to replace your current switch with a SPDT Mom-Off-Mom switch and rewire the relays. A SPDT switch has 3 terminals. In your case the common terminal would be connected to ground and the other two terminals would be connected to pin 85 of each relay respectively. Pin 86 of both relays needs to be connected to the switched battery supply. When the switch is pressed in either the up or down position it will provide ground to the the relay coil thereby energizing the coil in just one of the relays.

I desperately want to keep my chrome '64 switches, mostly because I've already spent about $200 or so buying Cadillac ones with power locks and vent window switches integrated into the same switch. SPDT switches were actually my first consideration. The vintage switches are just a chrome metal housing with a gang of copper flat contacts inside. Thought about gutting them, and finding a way to install SPDT switches inside. I was trying to avoid it because I can't see it going well (based on my fabrication skills).

[CapSS92]

If you want to keep the positive trigger then just ground out the terminals I said and you use the original switch to trigger the relays. It's kinda like this. (also from 12volt.com)

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram49.html

I'm not sure which section you pulled the diagram from but it looks like a negative trigger system.

[H2Ogbodies]

I desperately want to keep my chrome '64 switches, mostly because I've already spent about $200 or so buying Cadillac ones with power locks and vent window switches integrated into the same switch. SPDT switches were actually my first consideration. The vintage switches are just a chrome metal housing with a gang of copper flat contacts inside. Thought about gutting them, and finding a way to install SPDT switches inside. I was trying to avoid it because I can't see it going well (based on my fabrication skills).

You can keep your chrome switches-here is a kit I use for reverse polarity equipped applications but I also have another version for the older self grounding motors. If you want auto down AND up, it's easier to convert to later model motors which require plastic switches.

[jsg]

That's a beautiful harness. I'm going to try to build my own, but i'll probably be in contact once that one tries to catch fire.

I'm currently working on gutting old GM switches, and replacing the internals with mom on-off-mom on switches. I have some on the way, and hope to have more figured out by next weekend. It just makes more sense to eliminate potential failure points (relays, connectors, and many feet or wiring) and simplify the circuit.

[cdrod]

Guys:
The Dorman 742-150 motor comes with an adaptor with a 3-point connection layout. Unfortunately, the holes don't line up with the early A-body window regulator, so I re-drilled them to align with the regulator only to discover the adaptor limits full motion of the window regulator. So I bought some 12 ga steel plate and some 10-32 hex standoffs and made my own adaptor. I made it reversible so the same adaptor can be flipped and used for LH or RH sides. Here's a few pics:

[jsg]

Good info. Was it the link arm hitting the adapter? I've only fitted the motor, I didn't run it through paces yet. It seems to clear ok on the rear regulators. I just compared pics to my 64 Riviera regulators, and the only big difference is your link is much closer to the edge where the teeth are. On mine, the link is much closer to the center of the gear. I suspect the Cutlass is going to be representative of GM regulators than the Riv.

[cdrod]

Yes, the short link that connects to the big toothed gear was too close to the actual teeth and the Dorman supplied adaptor would snag it as it passed by the motor. The Dorman adaptor also didn't seem to mount the motor in the same plane as the regulator, or maybe a better way to describe it is out-of-plumb or not perpendicular to the regulator gear. I thought this could cause premature gear wear or even bind up the regulator under load. So I made my own adaptor plate that you see in the pics. My application is '72 Olds Cutlass (GM A-body); regulators from other cars (B/C/E Body cars) may not have the interference problem that I ran into.

[H2Ogbodies]

So definitely not a bolt on deal.

[CapSS92]

Good job on a creative simple solution. Beats paying $400+ for aftermarket setups. Plus you get the satisfaction of creating your own. That always does it for me. I'm in the process of rewiring a 69 Camaro RS for a guy and I made the headlight door assemblies using headlight motors from a Celica (only cause the last Firebird left was stripped) and a control module from a Firebird to open and close them. Aftermarket cost - $400. Junkyard costs -$60.

Alex