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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188

      68 F100 build, need solid advise

      I tore my 68 F100 down after attending the F100 nationals this year. I entered my truck in the show just for the fun of it. After everyone turning there nose up I decided it was time for a rebuild. I already have a Crown Victoria front end, 460 big block, and a TCI C6 transmission.
      Originally I was just gonna swap to a rust free cab and new DOVE head and Comp Cam but after stripping the truck down to the frame, I did some research on autocross ing and Pro Touring. I already have 17X10.5 and 17X9 wheels and 315 and 275 tires. What I really want to do now is improve the rear suspension. I've researched till my head is spinning. I've got a basket full of parts in Ron Suttons Website. I really want to build a killer 3 link and watts link rear suspension. I've got room for roughly 36 inch trailing arms and 3rd link with some fab work.
      Are 36 inch arms overkill or what?
      This is a street truck driven on special occasions and events. I want seriously good handling and street manner. Help me decide which way to go. Name:  20160702_212540.jpg
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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      I forgot to mention, I'm also boxing the chassis front to rear.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      El Segundo, CA
      Posts
      268
      Country Flag: United States
      You did not mention your budget. But if handling is your goal, then that big 460/C6 combo is not going to do you any favors, especially with a staggered (in width) tire and wheel setup. That is a recipe for understeer. I'd recommend 315's all around. And if you could afford it then some type of 351 based stroker engine, if big cubes are what you are after. Assuming it's in the budget.

      Some knowledgeable folks on this forum recommend against fully boxing stock frames because it leads to cracking at the cross members. That being said the stock frames are very flexible and are not beneficial to performance handling.

      I think a 3-link is a good choice on a truck as there is lot's of room for the third link. The longer links will reduce pinion angle change, so I don't really see a down side to it. Though I suppose there are diminishing returns at some point.

      I'm sure others will chime in.

      Gustave

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Beaufort , NC
      Posts
      1,849
      Country Flag: United States
      Well i will put in my .02..... Do what i wish i did and go full vic frame swap and dump the stock stuff. Put whatever engine / trans you want and rock it!
      1968 F100 sb full vic chassis swap
      1965 Mustang coupe 347 5 spd cheap touring SOLD
      2003 Porsche 996 Outlaw LS2 swap SOLD
      1992 Lexus SC400 daily SOLD
      1966 Porsche 912 Outlaw SOLD
      1968 Ford F-100 sb SOLD

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Thanks for the replys!
      315 all around is a great idea but that leaves me hunting for wheels or another rear end. The CV front is quite a bit wider up front.
      The 460 has to stay for now because I already have everything to upgrade the powerplant. A new 5.0 is my dream but it's gotta wait.
      I have thought about moving the engine aft even if it involves cutting the firewall and lowering the engine.
      If I finish the frame boxing and weld x braces or triangulation thru out I hope to no induce cracks.
      I copied Hacker's F100 hole punching.Name:  20160627_150914.jpg
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      - - - Updated - - -

      Thought I'd post a few pics of the truck before teardownName:  20160531_225225.jpg
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      I'll post more pics later.
      Frank

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Name:  20160514_164040.jpg
Views: 2315
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      This was at the F100 Nationals this year. As soon as I got home, I tore the whole truck down.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      [attach=config]128850[/attach
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      I installed a new Comp Cam and kit but didn't like the specs so I've got a slightly larger cam and modified DOVE-C heads going in. I degreed the cam then tore it back down. I expect 500+HP at the crank.Name:  20160522_040236.jpg
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    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Name:  20160527_234422.jpg
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    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      3 inch exhaust. That's probably getting redone too when I decided what rear suspension I'm going with.Name:  20160531_225225.jpg
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    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      1,414
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool project, keep this updated for us!


      Ridetech Suspsension
      Tech Specialist
      Phone: 812.481.4734

      Project Fox
      1979 Trans Am

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Beaufort , NC
      Posts
      1,849
      Country Flag: United States
      I think the stiffness of the CV chassis may be worth the difference of the front track width. I put just the cv front end and only boxed to the firewall, the stock chassis was made to flex. It in my opinion take a pretty stout boxing job to get the stocker to the same level.
      1968 F100 sb full vic chassis swap
      1965 Mustang coupe 347 5 spd cheap touring SOLD
      2003 Porsche 996 Outlaw LS2 swap SOLD
      1992 Lexus SC400 daily SOLD
      1966 Porsche 912 Outlaw SOLD
      1968 Ford F-100 sb SOLD

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Quote Originally Posted by Restomod View Post
      I think the stiffness of the CV chassis may be worth the difference of the front track width. I put just the cv front end and only boxed to the firewall, the stock chassis was made to flex. It in my opinion take a pretty stout boxing job to get the stocker to the same level.
      Im gonna build the chassis as stout as my skill allows.
      I'm adding several braces and taking out some of the stamped steel braces. Swapping to a CV frame takes some of the cool factor out IMO but each to their own.
      I agree the stock frame was made to flex and the CV chassis was more rigid than the F100 chassis.
      I'm waiting on leaf spring sliders and a watts link.
      Thinking hard about adding a homemade torque link with some sort of a slider or pivot at the front of a torque link for axle arc. I have a couple ideas. Gonna stick with the leaf springs for now and I have too much in the big block and C6 already but have considered moving the engine aft a few inches. I'll post pics soon.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      I got a watts link kit and spring sliders. Also got the first crossmembers in place. Removed the stamped steel member and replaced it with square tubing. This is also gonna be the attach point for the watts link.
      Slider instructions says to move the front spring eyelets inboard 1.5 to 3 inches inboard. Anyone don't this?
      BTW, here some of the steel going in the chassis.Name:  20160715_184542.jpg
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    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Beaufort , NC
      Posts
      1,849
      Country Flag: United States
      I understand creating more work than you have to, make your plan and do your best to stick to it.
      1968 F100 sb full vic chassis swap
      1965 Mustang coupe 347 5 spd cheap touring SOLD
      2003 Porsche 996 Outlaw LS2 swap SOLD
      1992 Lexus SC400 daily SOLD
      1966 Porsche 912 Outlaw SOLD
      1968 Ford F-100 sb SOLD

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Quote Originally Posted by Restomod View Post
      I understand creating more work than you have to, make your plan and do your best to stick to it.
      So far I'm sticking to it.
      I got the watts link bracket made and slotted. Tacked into place. My welders acting up so I couldn't weld except tack welds. I inquired about a set of Nascar truck arms so looks like I may use them. We'll see. Still have to finish boxing the frame in and fabbing crossmembers.Name:  20160718_041714.jpg
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Size:  152.3 KB
      I'm not happy with the 1/4 inch link. I'm gonna make another side to the watts link for strength.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      77
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks cool I wish I had gone a different root that leafs in the back maybe on the next rebuild. hotrodstohell does stuff with truck arms maybe you could copy some of their ideas.

      I think the crown vic frame would loose some of its strength without the body to tie it all together. The rear tank height kick up would require you to cut out most of the bed floor.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Quote Originally Posted by 48prerunner View Post
      Looks cool I wish I had gone a different root that leafs in the back maybe on the next rebuild. hotrodstohell does stuff with truck arms maybe you could copy some of their ideas.

      I think the crown vic frame would loose some of its strength without the body to tie it all together. The rear tank height kick up would require you to cut out most of the bed floor.
      The CV frame rear portion made me not want to swap chassis. Now I have to come up with a way to get strength out of the truck frame. Got the Nascar arms!

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,699
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey research a leaf link set up. Basically you have a living point under spring then add in an upper adjustable arm directly above the spring. Mainly it allows setting any pinion angle and actually frees up axle. Also adding a stiffener above/on front of leaf spring with spring clamps for each leaf. And if you do it right you can " allow" a certain amount of spring wrap by tightening or loosening the spring clamps in front of axle. It also stiffens up leafs allowing removal of some leafs to tune rate. Because all your spring rate will be behind axle.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Frank ZX, any updates?

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