'68 Camaro SS - Project 1BADSS

[pittpens24]

Hey Ya'all,

I have made a few posts here and there over the past few months but have been researching more than posting. I have decided finally to add my build to the list . I will start with a little back story. I first saw this car when I was 15 years old riding my quad over to my friend's farm. We were going riding that day and there it was - buried in a barn with just the tail end visible - a '68 Camaro with SS on the gascap, Black with white Z-28 stripes and I was in awe. It was his brother's car who had it bodyworked and painted. He never drove it and I had to have it. Many bails of hay/straw later, it was mine. I had a 350 SBC very mild cam, headers with dual exhaust and 650 holley carb. Had a m-21 Trans and 3.08 posi rear. By the time I was 17, it was ready for the street. I had swapped out the original front end with an RS kit and put S/S Cragers on it. I eventually had blown the motor and trans. Replaced with a built 450hp 350 SBC followed by a M-22 4 speed and upgraded the rear to a Moroso posi unit and 4:10 gears. Let's just say that car got up and went :D. I spent every cent that I earned on that car between mods and gas lol. Drove it til I was 27 and crashed it one night. The car sat in my parents back yard for some good 10 years until I finally decided to get it up to my house where it sat in my garage for another 7 years. Almost 17 years to the day of the accident is when I decided it was time to start the restoration process. I started the teardown in an attempt to do as much of the restoration that I could do until I had to call in the professionals. This is my 1st attempt at a restoration. I am planning on making this car a weekend warrior with the intent of hitting the local car shows and possibly maybe the local drag strip to see what she can do. Some of you may know me from posting on the Team Camaro website. For those that do, I apologize for re-posting my progress. For the rest of you all, I started the restoration process in July of 2015. So far to date I have replaced with new the following: Goodmark one-piece floorpan and one-piece trunk pan, Trunk extensions, rear inner valance panel, rear RS tail panel(AMD), Both Quarters and full doors(OER), Outer wheel wheels(AMD), Inner wheel wheels with mini tubs, Both front fenders and header panel with original GM bought back in '92, Front inner wheel housings(AMD), Front RS Valance panel(AMD) and finally a 2" Cowl Induction hood(AMD). I went with a Martz Chassis front subframe with tubular a-arms, Q-A1 Coilovers, 6 piston Dynapro Wilwood Disc Brakes and Power Rack and Pinion Steering. I stuck with Martz for the frame connectors and rear 4-link set-up with Q-A1 coilovers, Narrowed Moser F9 rear with 4:11's and a Detroit locker carrier and 4 Piston Dynapro Wilwood Disc Brakes. The rear frame rails were moved inboard to allow for wider tires. I fabricated my own stainless steel brake lines and plumbed the stainless steel braided fuel line as well. The motor is on order and that is a 572 BBC from CMEngines. I also went with a Tremec Magnum T-56 6 speed trans. This should get you caught up to date . I just wanted to say thanks to you all for all the info that has helped me thus far just from reading past posts and thank you for the future suggestions/concerns that you all have about my build. Cheers

[pittpens24]

Before I tore out the motor, I had to see if she would fire up after sitting for 17 years. Got the oil pressure up and took an old empty gear oil squeeze bottle and filled it with gas. Ran some juice to it from the battery of my Jeep and it fired right up after about 3 cranks. I couldn't believe it! Like it had ran yesterday - except for all the mice houses and crap that blew out of the exhaust lol. I ended up selling it for the cause. Also sold my M-22 and 12 bolt rear.

[pittpens24]

Next I had to repair the drivers side cowl panel guessing from a one time accident. After that I decided to smooth out my firewall. I bought a sheet of 18 Ga. steel, made a cardboard template, borrowed a friend's plasma cutter and welded it in. I didn't go crazy with it and really like the end result.

[pittpens24]

I then ripped out the entire floor pan and soon realized that I Hate drilling out spot welds! After whining and complaining I finally got it all out and welded in a new one piece floorpan from Goodmark. My stuff showed up from Martz Chassis - so I shot them with Eastwood's 2K Ceramic Satin Chassis Black paint. One pic has the 4-link welded in and floor pan notched.

[pittpens24]

Next step was to cut out my trunk pan and move my frame rails inboard to allow for the wider tires. I welded in structural steel tube and reinforced it with some 18 Ga. braces and solid welded them in place. Once I had then closed up on the ends and welded in, I then welded in my upper coil over mount into the frame rails.

[pittpens24]

Had to cut the quarter off to get the new floor pan in. I was afraid to cut off too much so I went little by little so I didn't cut into something that I couldn't see. Nothing like the smell of plasma cutting into 17 year old hidden mice houses. Anyway - got the new floor in and had to mark and cutout for the new coil over mount. I wracked my brain trying to figure out a way to layout a straight line on a contoured trunk pan. Used masking tape to get a straight line but couldn't figure out how to get a square line up the sides of the contoured trunk pan. I did my best and it wasn't perfect, but nothing that a little metal and weld couldn't fix. Once I got that all mocked up and welded in, I moved on to the lower inner valance panel and got that all tacked in place. Almost forgot - had to fabricate some "T" shaped covers for the adjustable ends of the 4-link on the inside of the car.

[pittpens24]

I proceeded to hang my drivers side door and then got scared to proceed with welding in the new quarter panel so I switched gears and decided to get the front sub-frame in and frame connectors welded in.

[pittpens24]

After reading a bunch of posts about quarter replacement I was ready. I torched out the lead where the quarter meets the roof. Whoever did the body work on the car before I had it did a horrendous job. The quarter was pop riveted in on the inside of the car where the inner door jamb panel meets the quarter and the entire wheel well as well. After drilling out the rivets and drilling out the spot welds to the roof seam, the rest of the quarter fell off the car and hit the garage floor. There was not one other weld holding it on the car. Guess I can't complain because it was a rather easy removal lol. Cleaned everything up and sprayed with self etching primer and then a POR-15 topcoat before starting to weld on the outer wheel well. Forgot to mention previously that I had used Weld-thru primer on everything that I welded back together. That stuff is amazing! Anyway welded the quarter back on everywhere except in the tail pan area.

[pittpens24]

I then moved onto getting the mini tub in. I laid out where my cut was going to be on my floor pan and decided to go with a cut-off wheel for this job instead of the plasma cutter to get a cleaner line. The hard part was getting through the 3 layers where the original shock tower mount had been - had to resort to the old school saw-zall after I precut with the cut off wheel. I was very pleased with how clean the cut came out. At this point I fit the new mini tub in place - had to trim it in a few places and boom - she was ready to weld in. Took me a whole Saturday to get this one mini-tub in and completely welded in. Then on to getting the other quarter off and prepped

[pittpens24]

Next up was getting the rear Valance panel fit to the quarters. What a PITA to put it mildly. Not sure if it was a combination of the aftermarket panels or if this is always a bear to do but took a couple good weekends to get it lined up properly. Once that was behind me, I moved on to my roll cage that I got from S&W Racecars. Wasn't sure which side door bar to go with so I bought the extra drop bar side incase I wanted to go that route. Ended up not liking either side bar option and it will not be raced so left it out. I did however go with the option to drop the bars through the package tray in the even that I decided to keep my rear seat or at this point - highly modded rear seat lol. I should have know the rear valance was going to be trouble when I did the lock mock up and the key hole was sideways rather vertical. It was stamped wrong and I was too far along to send it back - you know how that goes, so it took a while with a little metal file, but I managed to finagle the notches to get the key hole vertical. Made sure I had decent gaps with my deck lid and welded away. Woohooo - my tranny showed up

[pittpens24]

Since I was sooo into drilling out those spot welds lol, I decided to put in a new dash panel as it was rusted out pretty bad. I used my old one as a template to pre-drill the holes to re-weld my new one in place. By this time I was felling pretty happy and in a good place to start priming. I washed the entire underside and interior down with denatured alcohol to remove all oils and grease. Then went nuts with a red scotchbrite pad - well many many pads to get every nook and cranny scuffed really well. Re-washed with the denatured alcohol once again really well until everything wiped clean with no residue. We had an outrageously warm weekend so I took advantage and was able to get 2 coats of epoxy primer on the underside followed by 2 coats of Raptor liner on Saturday. Sunday I did the same thing to the interior by getting 2 coats of epoxy primer on the entire interior of the car and 2 coats of Raptor Liner on interior floor pan of the car - figured it would be a good sound deadening barrier. I can't say enough good thing about the Raptor Liner by Upol. It is sooo easy to use and came out beautifully.

[pittpens24]

After it was all painted underneath, I could get the rear and 4-link in. And then the Wilwood 4 piston Dynapro's on the rear. Since I was in brake mode, I moved onto the front subframe and started assembly of the A-arms, spindles, Rack and Pinion and Wilwood 6 piston Dynapro's Threw in my rad support getting ready for the front fenders

[pittpens24]

These fenders have been sitting in my parents basement since '92 along with a new GM header panel. Bolted the front fender on with the AMD inner fenders - I was surprised how well they went together. Kept on moving and added the header and lower front valance panel. Then the final moment - the hood . Obviously I squared up the front end and had some gapping issues. Who woulda thought?

[pittpens24]

Once I had all the sheet metal on, I decided to hit the brake lines. I ordered all the lines and fitting from Summit Racing - thank god for their customer service - they were amazing in helping find what I was looking for. I must have been on the phone for at least an hour with them. I went with Eastwood for the bending pliers, 180* bending tool and their Professional Flaring tool with the 37* adapter and their stainless steel line straightener. The line straightener had been backordered and being a little impatient, I decided to make my own version. After looking as a few versions online, I came up with the one pictured. I used 1" aluminum square stock, bolted patio door slider wheels to the square stock in a 3/2 pattern and drilled through the other way and used a fine thread bolt and nylon nut for complete control over adjustment. I can report that the think worked like a charm and cost me $38.00 in parts to make as opposed to the $89.00 plus shipping from Eastwood. I used all Earl's AN fittings and Heidt's thru-frame fittings as well. I have to say that I am extremely happy with the way the lines turned out. They were a little tough to bend but for the most part nothing like I have read. The Eastwood flaring tool works flawlessly on the 3/16" Stainless line to form both double 37* and double 45* flared ends. It is harder to remember to put your tube nuts on before you flare than to actually do the flare. Yeah it did happen a couple of times. The lines are 100% in but no fluid in them as of yet so no telling how great of a job I did - or didn't do.....time will tell on that one. The line clamps you see in the pics are Earl's as well - they look amazing and fit around the line perfectly. Love those little things. Wish they made them for 8N Stainless Steel Braided fuel line. Was just messing around in that last pic with a 90* bend and a 37* and 45* flare.

[pittpens24]

And finally to the present. Stuck my old wheels and tires on the car to see how she sat. Love the stance! I am currently gapping panels. Been on that for the past month. Now I know why restoration shops get what they get - it is tedious work and you never seem like you are getting anywhere! So far the drivers door and deck lid are completed. I am currently working on the passenger door. When that is done - which I can't wait for to happen, The gapping procedure will be completed. The hood gaps are amazingly great! The rest of the story will happen in real time.........

[pittpens24]

As of last night, I am soo glad to say that I am finally done with the panel gaps. Will be moving on to the RS front grille while I wait for the motor to get here

[ryeguy2006a]

That looks great! I'm working on a 68 Camaro at the moment and it is great to see you have made so much progress.

[pittpens24]

That looks great! I'm working on a 68 Camaro at the moment and it is great to see you have made so much progress.

Thanks! I am trying to do as much as I can before I feel I have to turn it over to the body shop to finish it.

[pittpens24]

Couple updates:

Motor just showed up finally from CMEngines. 572 BBC dyno'd @ 742hp and 689ft. lbs. torque. Can't wait to hear that puppy start up for the 1st time!
My Lemons Headers arrived a couple days before the motor.
Thanks to Summit Racing - all my other goodies will be arriving today so I can start the assembly and mock up process.
On the final stretch before she is off to body and paint

[snichols28]

Excellent job! Congrats on the progress. Looks like you're doing in the right way!