Adapter Fittings For Baer Remaster???

[alocker]

I currently have a Chevy drum/drum master in my Impala and I'm upgrading to the Baer Remaster.

It has stock style stainless lines that are newer and I would like to reuse them but I cannot find the proper adapters. One I believe is 1/2" thread and the other 9/16" thread both inverted flare. The master requires 3/8" inverted flare threads.

I can find just about every other combination that I don't need. Any suggestions or do I have to bend and flare some new lines?

[Apogee]

Personally, I would just cut the hard lines and flare them with the proper tube nuts, avoiding the adapter fittings all together. If both of your hard lines are 3/16" tubing, that should be an option, as teh 3/8-24 tube nuts are the smallest you can run with 3/16" tubing. If one or both are 1/4" tubing, then the smallest tube nut you can run with 1/4" tubing is 7/16-24 inverted flare (or M11x1.5). That said, most adapter fittings are to run smaller tube nuts into the larger OEM GM MC outlet ports, however you would need the fittings below, and I'm not sure that they exist.

3/8-24 male inverted flare X 1/2-20 female inverted flare
3/8-24 male inverted flare X 9/16-18 female inverted flare

Now I can get there with multiple fittings per port, but that gets ugly fast and just increases the likelihood for leaks IMO.

Tobin
KORE3

[fleming23]

There was only one place in the country that hat the fittings back when I tried to used the Remaster. Not sure why, or maybe I was looking in all the wrong places but some company in California seemed to be about the only place that had them.

However, I am 99% sure my new Wilwood tandem master had them in the box as part of the kit, for significantly less money at that. Might want to check with Wilwood as crazy as it sounds.

Be sure to check your piston depth on the Baer. I just bolted it on without really measuring and the piston in the master would not release all the way creating a residual pressure that eventually would lock the brakes down after a few miles of driving.

[dontlifttoshift]

BrakeQuip has what you need. http://www.brakequip.com/products/au...hread-adapters

BQ260 3/8″ x 24NF 1/2″ x 20NF X 12mm 16mm
BQ261 3/8″ x 24NF 9/16″ x 18NF X 12mm 11/16

You might be able to find them from Edelman as well.

I'm with Tobin, though. If you can just cut and reflare, that would be the better way to do it.

[fleming23]

^^^^That is who I found as well, but struggled finding anyone who actually stocked them.

[alocker]

Personally, I would just cut the hard lines and flare them with the proper tube nuts, avoiding the adapter fittings all together. If both of your hard lines are 3/16" tubing, that should be an option, as teh 3/8-24 tube nuts are the smallest you can run with 3/16" tubing. If one or both are 1/4" tubing, then the smallest tube nut you can run with 1/4" tubing is 7/16-24 inverted flare (or M11x1.5). That said, most adapter fittings are to run smaller tube nuts into the larger OEM GM MC outlet ports, however you would need the fittings below, and I'm not sure that they exist.

3/8-24 male inverted flare X 1/2-20 female inverted flare
3/8-24 male inverted flare X 9/16-18 female inverted flare

Now I can get there with multiple fittings per port, but that gets ugly fast and just increases the likelihood for leaks IMO.

Tobin
KORE3

Thanks Tobin. My issue with cut and re-flare is it's stainless and I don't have a flaring kit. I would rent one but it's still stainless which I hear can give issues.

There was only one place in the country that hat the fittings back when I tried to used the Remaster. Not sure why, or maybe I was looking in all the wrong places but some company in California seemed to be about the only place that had them.

However, I am 99% sure my new Wilwood tandem master had them in the box as part of the kit, for significantly less money at that. Might want to check with Wilwood as crazy as it sounds.

Be sure to check your piston depth on the Baer. I just bolted it on without really measuring and the piston in the master would not release all the way creating a residual pressure that eventually would lock the brakes down after a few miles of driving.

Thanks for the info. I will look into it. I was planning to measure the installed depth of the piston and rod.

BrakeQuip has what you need. http://www.brakequip.com/products/au...hread-adapters

BQ260 3/8″ x 24NF 1/2″ x 20NF X 12mm 16mm
BQ261 3/8″ x 24NF 9/16″ x 18NF X 12mm 11/16

You might be able to find them from Edelman as well.

I'm with Tobin, though. If you can just cut and reflare, that would be the better way to do it.

That site does show what I need. i will check it out.

Thanks all for the input.

[dontlifttoshift]

Those two fittings are exactly what you need, what am I missing?

BrakeQuip has dealers all across the country. http://www.brakequip.com/find-a-dealer

[alocker]

Those two fittings are exactly what you need, what am I missing?

BrakeQuip has dealers all across the country. http://www.brakequip.com/find-a-dealer

Don't you hate when you give the exact info needed in a thread and the OP ignores it

Thanks again for the info. I ordered them already.

[malibudave]

There are three brake line adapters as part of part number CLP-45045 from Classic Performance.

They have a yellow zinc coating as a rust inhibitor. All three adapters have a 3/8-24 inverted flare male end and three different inverted flare female ends. The inverted flare female ends are 9/16-18, 1/2-20, and 7/16-24. I use these adapters to mate Chrysler master cylinders with two, 3/8-24 outlets to GM brake lines that have a 9/16-18 rear brake fitting and a 1/2-20 front line fitting.

The 3/8-24 female inverted flare are common on some Chrysler and Ford master cylinder brake line outlets. The 9/16-18 male inverted flare fittings are used for the rear brake line on many (1965 - 1997) GM car and truck master cylinders. The 1/2-20 male inverted flare fittings are used for the front brake line on many (1965 - 2004) GM car and truck master cylinders. The 7/16-24 male inverted flare fittings are used for the front and rear brake lines on many (1955 - 1964) GM car and truck master cylinders.

[alocker]

BrakeQuip has what you need. http://www.brakequip.com/products/au...hread-adapters

BQ260 3/8″ x 24NF 1/2″ x 20NF X 12mm 16mm
BQ261 3/8″ x 24NF 9/16″ x 18NF X 12mm 11/16

You might be able to find them from Edelman as well.

I'm with Tobin, though. If you can just cut and reflare, that would be the better way to do it.

FYI these are the incorrect fittings. The female flare seat is for what looks like a 5/16" which makes no sense in a brake application. Either way they wont work. I'm a bit miffed that the female inlet line size is not a dimension on the website. It would have saved me time and money.

I should have just made lines from the beginning.

[dontlifttoshift]

Picture of the female flare seat? How big is the hole through the middle of it?

[alocker]

Picture of the female flare seat? How big is the hole through the middle of it?

[alocker]

The id of the seat is .205 on the 9/16 thread.

The ID of the seat is .25 on the 1/2 thread.

Not a typo, the smaller thread has the larger ID.

I might be missing something here but there is no way a 3/16" line is going to seat on that.

[dontlifttoshift]

That pretty much sucks. Sorry for steering you that way.....it looked good on paper.

Time to cut and reflare.

[malibudave]

Go with CLP-45045 from Classic Performance. You can get it through summit racing for about $13 plus shipping. It will have what you need with the correct flared female ends.

Brakequip changed the design to accept a larger diameter line for some reason. I buy those in bulk and had to return most of them because they would not work with 3/16 line. The should work with 1/4 line and 5/16 line which defeats the purpose of using them with the front brake lines on most GM cars that have 3/16 lines.

[alocker]

Go with CLP-45045 from Classic Performance. You can get it through summit racing for about $13 plus shipping. It will have what you need with the correct flared female ends.

Brakequip changed the design to accept a larger diameter line for some reason. I buy those in bulk and had to return most of them because they would not work with 3/16 line. The should work with 1/4 line and 5/16 line which defeats the purpose of using them with the front brake lines on most GM cars that have 3/16 lines.

I ordered the Brakequip before I saw your post. My rear line is 1/4" and there is no way that will work either. They seat is just way too big. It's got to be at least 5/16". Either way they should have it on the specs on the website.

[andrewb70]

Alex,

When I plan to install my Remaster I am going to use banjo fittings at the MC with AN 3 male ports then make new lines as needed.

Andrew

[alocker]

Go with CLP-45045 from Classic Performance. You can get it through summit racing for about $13 plus shipping. It will have what you need with the correct flared female ends.

Brakequip changed the design to accept a larger diameter line for some reason. I buy those in bulk and had to return most of them because they would not work with 3/16 line. The should work with 1/4 line and 5/16 line which defeats the purpose of using them with the front brake lines on most GM cars that have 3/16 lines.

On backorder till late March.

[IMPALAMAN1]

Big A. I have the flaring tool if you want to send me the line. Are you using a proportioning valve or the original metering block? Are you redoing any of the lines? Send me a pm if you want to discuss further

[IMPALAMAN1]

Also, these guys have helped me in the past with odd fittings
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/