FRS6 - An Audi RS6 hidden under a 1950 F1 truck

[grendel]

Cheers, Russel. Much appreciated!

Something that has sped this along is giving up drinking each day. I've picked up the welder or grinder instead of going to the fridge for a cold one. I'm amazed at how much you can achieve, when you aren't drinking and procrastinating. ha!

I think I need to stop watching this build now... no one needs that level of abuse.

[Max Power]

Do myself more harm than benefit you reckon? haha

[Max Power]

Tail shaft centre bearing mount now done. Will tie it into the chassis more once I start boxing the chassis.

[nimblemotorsports]

I am putting a Audi V8 in my 67 Corvair, so you know that I'm digging this build!
Looks like a huge amount of work, my project seems simple in comparison.

I was planning to build my own efi system since the factory computer can't deal with a manual trans,
and this is making me consider using the zf5hp automatic that I also have and try to get the stock computer to work.
So I'll be real interested to see how you get the wiring sorted. Mine is a the older 32 valve motor and not awd, so simpler.

[Max Power]

I had to Google what a Corvair looked like. They are a cool looking car, I like them!

Have you got any pics you could share?

I don't know much about using alternative ECU units on these motors. My theory is that I have a complete and functional car, I'll delete bit by bit the components I don't need insuring everything that I do need works in the process.

I have heard of people doing manual conversions on my model. But your model there should be plenty of ECU options. How did you get your motor, did you have the whole car or did you just get the motor and trans by themselves? I think if I were attacking it, I'd look for a suitable complete salvage car to purchase for all the bits and pieces. I know here in Aus early 2000 model Audi's, including V8 models, are quite cheap to buy at salvage auctions. You should even be able to pick up a manual car and use it's parts.
One of the biggest issues with the Audi wiring system is that the dash cluster is VIN coded and a crucial component to be used in the engine management. Unless you have the know how to create a stand alone ECU, you're stuck needing to use the cluster and the key set to run the engine. Which is exactly what I'm planning to do.
I have a basic VAG scan tool that can read and clear DTC's. I've managed to problem solve a lot of issues with it in other VAG cars. One of them at a minimum is a must I think when playing with these cars.

[digitalsolo]

This is a super cool build, thanks so much for sharing it with us all. I've done a lot of heavy custom fab on my car, but not to the level you're doing.

I have a lot of respect for someone who goes "ya know, we ought to just jam these two random vehicles together" and has the drive to actually make it happen. Keep it up!

[Max Power]

Cheers, thanks very much! That's a pretty amazing compliment to hear, I truly appreciate it. Thank you!

[Max Power]

Today's photo dump. Big progress. I'm so excited!!!
I finished the second rear engine mount. The front right mount is half done, awaiting alignment when the cradle is fitted. The front left mount will then be made too. I couldn't start it due to the bent left chassis rail on the Audi.
And then as you can see, chassis is off the jig and the diff is fitted. It went on perfectly. It is sitting higher than expected at the moment as there is next to no weight in the chassis.

[nimblemotorsports]

The motor was from a salvage yard the PO bought and has the ECU and wiring harness with it. From what I understand will go into limp mode if it doesn't get the signals from the auto trans.

I'm also doing a 2000 jaguar s-type drivetrain swap into another vehicle and will try to keep intact all the wiring since I have the complete car, but it seems almost impossible, it also has the transponder key tied into it.
I have a 97 Ford Taurus SHO v8 and I could never get the ECU to work after extensive time spent studying all the wiring diagrams, etc,
and started on my own EFI system for it. The Audi V8 has a variable intake length control and throttle-by-wire, so more complexity there,
and your twin-turbo has gotta have even more stuff to deal with.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ight=audacious

Have you got any pics you could share?

[67SSDan]

Hell yeah, it worked!! Nice man! (Not that I had any doubts, it's just cool to see it sitting on the ground!)

[F-Body International]

My dad had one of these RS6 cars a few years ago. That Audi is no slouch...very fast car being a V8, twin turbo and automatic trans.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

The lower control arms on the differential will be level at ride height? The floor of the bed will be at about the top of the tire? I like the ingenuity!

[jlcustomz]

Man, nothing like good progress pics. I'm excited for you.
Like any off one project, small issues could show up later like ride height or ride quality, but nothing in that department that couldn't fairly easily be fixed. on the up side, anything you're doing with that audi suspension would have to be way better than a 50 ford ride quality----- like a tractor that is.

Another dumb thought I just had looking at the old leaf mounts not removed yet. If a tilt up bed could be any use to you utility wise, as in dumping stuff off , those mounts may be of use. Just a dumb thought.
Keep on keeping on. Looking good.

[Max Power]

Thanks very much everyone! I still feel like a kid on Christmas, I was that excited. haha

I'm hoping later today I can get that front section removed under the steering rack and then I can fit the engine. Shouldn't take long but I have some work to get done first today.

The suspension barely squatted at all under the weight of the chassis. It really weighs next to nothing compared to the Audi body. I think I will need to go to a set of adjustable coil overs as the stock suspension is a DRC system where the opposing struts are hydraulically connected to each other. I don't know of anyone who has the ability to bleed them and they need to be done correctly. I rang our nearest Audi dealer and they suggested I look on Youtube to work out how to do it. So that gave me little confidence. They had no idea and definitely did not have the correct tools.
In the meantime I'll plug the hydraulic lines and then wait until later.
I think really the rear of the chassis needs to come down the best part of 80mm for the control arms to sit roughly in a stock ride height.

I left all of the old mounts and leaf spring ends and bits and pieces to maintain that old used look. I only removed the bits that had to go. I'm hoping to leave as much as I can. Including all the dirt and road grime.
That is a cool idea though, to build a hinge point of the leaf mounts. But I have another ute that has a tipper back.

[JRANGER]

man that looks great!

[Max Power]

Thanks, JRANGER!

I didn't get as far as I hoped today but made some good headway.

Chopped out the lower section of the plate under the rack



Then started lining the big girl up.



It's going to be tight







After a little bit of trimming with the plasma and some cross members unbolted, things were looking better.





and magic, it fits!



rear mounts line up



all tucked in on the sides





the spring was just hitting the chassis rail



I took a little out with the plasma, I'll plate it when I take the engine back out.



Strut assembly bolted to the tower and steering rack bolted on.







Now to repeat this for the left side and then finish fabbing the front mounts. Then it will roll. I'll be able to sit behind it and make all kinds of cool engine noises and pretend I am driving! haha

[cornfedbill]

I really like this build. Keep up the good work.

[Max Power]

Thanks, Bill!

[ryeguy2006a]

Wow, that is some great progress!

[67SSDan]

Okay, stupid question (and I'm still trying to decide if I'm just looking at all this wrong). Is all this sitting too low under the frame? I'm feeling like the engine is going to be half hanging out from under the truck, what am I missing?

Dan