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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States

      brakes all or nothing

      Hi i recently performed a all wheel disc c5 conversion on my 79 camaro .
      Master and booster is abs 9" double diaphragm.
      The pedal goes about 3/4 way to the floor before the car starts to slow down and stop but the pedal is firm. I will add the car stops ok.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      Highland Village, TX
      Posts
      104
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't know much about Camaro brakes stuff, but if you do that kind of swap on a Mustang, you need to make sure you have a Power Brake Pedal and that the Pedal Ratio is correct for Power Brakes... Did you go from Non-Power to Power?
      Ron -
      1970 Mach1
      440 RWHP, 428 RWTQ
      Calypso Coral, 357W, T5Z 5-speed,
      Edelbrock 454 17x8 Wheels, 255x40x17 rear, 215x45x17 front, Bridgestone Potenza RE-71, TCP Coilovers Front, Global West Del-A-Lum Bushings,Global West Adj. Strut Rods, Wilwood Discs All around

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      Power to power and brake rod is back in same hole it came out of.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      What bore size MC?

      Otherwise, 98% of the low pedals I've seen have been caused by air in the system. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? If not, then you should. If you did, what method did you use? Recirculation or plugged-port?

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      1 1/8" bore size on the master.
      I did bench bleed with the recirculation method. If i should plug it i will.
      I did have to remove the rear calipers to get the bleeders up to get all the air out is rhis common?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      First, a 1-1/8" bore MC should produce an extremely high and hard pedal with C5 brakes. Factory on those cars was a 1" bore with a dual-9" booster, and your master cylinder is roughly 25% larger, so your pedal travel should be 25% less and effort 25% higher.

      Why would you need to remove a rear caliper to bleed it? Are you running a LH/RH caliper in a staggered installation? Either way, I would suggest a 1" bore MC, bench bleed using the plugged port method, and then a full system bleed. I'm 99.99% sure you just have air in the system.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      MusicCity
      Posts
      477

      Just a passing thought in reading this thread

      One other thing comes to mind - what if he may be running an aftermarket universal type MC and does not have the spacer bullet / slug / plug installed into the MC in conjunction with a late model short MC pushrod design booster? Everything will bolt up, bleed right, but won't have a pedal until at least 3/4 of the way down... (to make up a short rod booster versus deep hole master cylinder). We occasionally get this tech call: "we installed your system and have no brakes", then perform a diagnostic interview and discover the spacer bullet hasn't been installed into the MC the customer has sourced on their end (applies to most all aftermarket style MC's).

      Scroll down to the bottom of this web page for a visual comparison, then check your scenario:

      http://www.hydratechbraking.com/GM_1stgenF_Body.html

      *IF* you find a deep hole in the backside of MC that you could stick a pencil into about an inch, yet see only a nub of a brake booster pushrod that is well below the MC mounting area = you are literally pushing into thin air until you take up all of that distance before even actuating the pistons in the MC. Remedy? Find / locate / obtain the proper spacer bullet to insert into the deep MC pushrod hole to achieve +/- .025 overall air gap between the MC pushrod in the vacuum booster to the MC pistons in the master cylinder.

      Or? Go back and re-bleed the system: http://hydratechbraking.com/braketech1.html

      There IS a difference - Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

      Paul M. Clark
      Founder / Master Engineer

      Hydratech Braking Systems ®
      www.hydratechbraking.com

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      I will bench bleed using the plug method to start. while the master is out I will investigate the booster pushrod and depth of the master. the unit I purchased came assembled from ABS Power Brake inc. regardless I will check.

      the reason for removing the rear caliper to bleed is the bleeder screw is at the bottom of the caliper on the passenger side. this is a staggered set up. possible wrong parts shipped checking that currently with vendor.

      appreciate the help and pointing me in a new direction, let know what I discover. Thank you AJ



    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      FWIW, a staggered installation uses two driver's side C5/C6 calipers so that you don't have the bleeding issue. While you can remove and rotate the caliper for bleeding purposes, what a PITA.
      It's what I does.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      Recap: CPP C5 front and Lincoln rear conversation disc. ABS double diaphragm 9" w 1 1/8" bore master. Finally back in the garage to sort through things and found this. Plugged master on the bench plunger moves 1/8" then stops. Rod is correct for master depth deep setup. Correct right rear caliper installed. System bleed. After all that I still have a soft pedal until the end.
      Tobin you had mentioned going to a 1" bore master. As for the proportioning valve? Do I use the one from ABS that is on the car now? Thanks and happy holidays.





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