Holley 670 Air Bleeds clogged in 2 weeks sitting?

[fltplan]

Quick question for the carb guys. I have a 670 Holley sp on a 351W. Had it tuned by a very reputable shop here in San Diego. The car ran perfect, took it out cruising a couple nights, then it sat for exactly 2 weeks. Started it up and it won't run below 2-2500 rpm, dies at idle. I called the shop, he said the air bleeds are clogged up, common on Holley Carbs. This is California and the gas is terrible, but 2 weeks of sitting is too much? Does this sound right? Just looking for a confirmation or second opinion. BTW, I have replaced the entire fuel system to include lines, regulator, filter, pump in the last two months prior to having it tuned.

I have also heard that an edlebrock would be a better carb for occasional driving, but less power than a Holley? I'm not racing, just want a car that runs good and consistent. Thanks.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Quick question for the carb guys. I have a 670 Holley sp on a 351W. Had it tuned by a very reputable shop here in San Diego. The car ran perfect, took it out cruising a couple nights, then it sat for exactly 2 weeks. Started it up and it won't run below 2-2500 rpm, dies at idle. I called the shop, he said the air bleeds are clogged up, common on Holley Carbs. This is California and the gas is terrible, but 2 weeks of sitting is too much? Does this sound right? Just looking for a confirmation or second opinion. BTW, I have replaced the entire fuel system to include lines, regulator, filter, pump in the last two months prior to having it tuned.

I have also heard that an edlebrock would be a better carb for occasional driving, but less power than a Holley? I'm not racing, just want a car that runs good and consistent. Thanks.

Ok, I'll try not to stir the pot with this. #1, air bleeds in the Holley are in the top of the main body. So unless the vent tube is puking fuel, there shouldn't be any fuel in the air bleeds. #2, if the air bleeds are stopped up, you need to change the filtration on top of the engine as you'll either have to drop something in them, or they will "suck" something into them. Only other option is that the shop doing the work is horrible with identifying parts of the carb, and completed lead you down the wrong path. Stopped up air bleeds will create a very very rich condition. So essentially the engine should run unless you are killing it with fuel.

[David Pozzi]

We can draw conclusions, but someone really needs to look the carb over and diagnose it to be sure what the actual problem is.

It may be that a piece of debris is lodged in the needle and seat, causing the fuel level to rise. Fuel will be coming out of the booster nozzles at idle if this happens & if you have clear float level sight plugs, you would see the high fuel levels. When new hoses are cut to length, debris can be left inside the hose and be flushed into the carb. If the little inlet filters are left in the carb, they can catch it, but often they are removed to aid high speed flow and a larger inline filter is used which is not as close to the carb, so unfiltered hose is in-between the filter and carb. I've seen nicked O rings in the needle and seat assembly cause flooding at low speeds, plus the newer carbs have plastic floats that can absorb fuel and sink.

Usually plugged air bleeds are caused by fuel drying out in the carb and leaving varnish deposits. The bleeds are tiny and it doesn't take much to plug them. That wouldn't happen in two weeks, it would happen over several months of sitting.

[rchaskin]

.....It may be that a piece of debris is lodged.....

Those foam triangle air filters are probably the worst ever for sending trash to the carb.

That is a cool looking ride!!

[David Pozzi]

I'm not a fan of those foam air filters. If the engine backfires or you have a carb fire, the filter is right above to catch fire. The same goes for those pleated air cleaner lids, they are a fire hazard too.