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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Livermore, CA
      Posts
      668
      Country Flag: United States

      Worth? Clean 66 Chevelle body and frame only. body has things like shaved doors

      rear quarter panel/brake light area have been smoothed, so it's one piece.. they indicated no rust, floor , toe/kick panel, trunk. body is in primer. SS Chevelle hood (with the ornamental hood scoops). Again clean title, clean body.

      No idea what a body/frame is worth (non SS) I guess it's worth what someone will pay, but if I'm looking to swap parts from my car, I would like an idea on it's worth and then figure out what my not so clean but painted body can be sold for. Getting an idea what this is worth as it sits, gives me some idea if it's worth buying, and rebuilding from my car or not.


      Thanks, your input is valuable to me

      Tory
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      Last edited by cactuss4; 08-11-2015 at 04:37 PM. Reason: removing duplicate images

      Livermore, CA
      American:
      1966 Chevelle SS "Tribute" Retro / Pro-Tour
      For Sale

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      So Cal
      Posts
      254
      Tory, I would think in the 1500-3500range. Like you said it's worth what someone is willing to pay, I bought my car in a similar stage, with all kinds of extra parts thrown in..

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Livermore, CA
      Posts
      668
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Sean Cooke View Post
      Tory, I would think in the 1500-3500range. Like you said it's worth what someone is willing to pay, I bought my car in a similar stage, with all kinds of extra parts thrown in..

      Thanks Sean

      Ya they are asking $7000, which is a bit on the high side, as I can do the body work on mine for less than that (but it would still have to be painted). It only works for me if I end up paying similar to what I would end up paying to clean mine up, or if I can re-coupe at least 50% of the price by selling my body/frame.

      Tory

      Livermore, CA
      American:
      1966 Chevelle SS "Tribute" Retro / Pro-Tour
      For Sale

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      Ouch. That's not worth $7k. My dad just picked up a complete solid body 67 Chevelle that was still in one piece for $5k last year. Once the parts come off, the price comes down. Plus, I'm not fond of work like filling in the rear end caps. I'm assuming it was just plastic filler used? There's no real good way to do this unless you're handbuilding new pieces out of sheetmetal. Different metals expand and contract differently, especially if they're are different densities and thicknesses. A pot metal end cap will surely expand and contract differently than sheetmetal, which means you will probably have a line appear within the next couple years. Plus, the gaps are a good flex joint as well... making things solid like that might force the fill joint to crack. Good for trailer queen show cars, but for a car that might get some bodyflex, and spend time in the sun, I wouldn't recommend it.
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Livermore, CA
      Posts
      668
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CampbellshotrodsAZ View Post
      Ouch. That's not worth $7k. My dad just picked up a complete solid body 67 Chevelle that was still in one piece for $5k last year. Once the parts come off, the price comes down. Plus, I'm not fond of work like filling in the rear end caps. I'm assuming it was just plastic filler used? There's no real good way to do this unless you're handbuilding new pieces out of sheetmetal. Different metals expand and contract differently, especially if they're are different densities and thicknesses. A pot metal end cap will surely expand and contract differently than sheetmetal, which means you will probably have a line appear within the next couple years. Plus, the gaps are a good flex joint as well... making things solid like that might force the fill joint to crack. Good for trailer queen show cars, but for a car that might get some bodyflex, and spend time in the sun, I wouldn't recommend it.
      Thanks Josh

      I had similar concerns, but there was a nice 66 Convertible at the goodguys show and he had this done about 20 years ago and it was still very clean. He did unfortuantely try to do the same with the upper panel (trunk to quarterpanels) and that had some cracking.

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      Livermore, CA
      American:
      1966 Chevelle SS "Tribute" Retro / Pro-Tour
      For Sale

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      HILLBILLY HOLLYWOOD, TENNESSEE!!!
      Posts
      2,041
      It's SUPER hard right now to buy any project car at even a decent price right now. It's the worst I have ever seen.

      Cruise Craigslist, Autotrader, Racingjunk and all the other for sale sites for cars and you will see LOT'S of project cars for sale offered at hugely INFLATED prices. Most of these vehicles could be FREE and you could not afford to build em! Seller's tend to forget or really do not care that the price of restoration, parts and labor varies very little no matter what type of vehicle you restore. Mechanics or parts suppliers do not price their services and parts based upon the value of the car. They could care less if it's worth $50 or $50,000! TV sure does make it look easy and look at all the money you can make! Corvair or Corvette the reality is the paint and body work cost does vary much at all between these 2 cars yet the value of the completed vehicles can vary exponentially by a power of 10 or more!

      By FAR the BEST DEALS on collector cars in 2015 has been at the collector car auctions. Now I am not talking about the 1 off stuff that make headlines just the average car brought to a collector car sale by the average enthusiast seller and car dealer. Barrett Jackson in Scottsdate last January was FULL of great deals in 2015. Overall best buying opportunity I have ever seen at BJ and I first started attending BJ way back in 1988! This trend has continued at all the other collector car auctions I have attended. Just have patience and not be too specific on what you want and you can certainly get some great deals this year.

      Typically when I go to Scottsdale in January I buy cars off the street and not at the auctions as the newspaper, the Pavillion's and Craigslist are FULL of old cars for sale. This year was no different in the amount of stuff for sale however my results were hugely different. What was different was that I still put almost 1500 miles on the rental car that week looking at stuff for sale only to buy ONE (1) car off the street this year. Typically have bought as many as 8-12 vehicles off the street between myself and another friend enough to fill 2 transport trucks. Pricing of cars for sale from private sellers and dealers Curbstoning was horrendously HIGH! Much better deals at BJ, Russo and Silver auctions. Just sit and wait for the deals to roll the block! That trend continues so far this year.

      The car above is a great example. Why pay $7K for a body that needs damn near EVERYTHING when I can go buy a NICE 66 Malibu for $20K? I can't make that project car into similar condition for $13K. You want to build a PT car. Go buy the nicest stock appearing car you can find with cosmetics that meet your approval and cut that up! You will be tens of $1,000's of dollars ahead not to mention the value of your time!

      Mike

      Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

      www.musclecardeals.com






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