Holley efi tuner

[cwylie]

I changed the 1 to negative 1 and that almost lined everything up. It idles significantly better.

[TBART70]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h69ircq4zb...TUNE.hefi?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8f0qcqcj13...185155.dl?dl=0

Not much was changed. I did put in my timing table. Set it for CL learn at idle, it started removing fuel. Dennis said not to transfer learn to base. It idled, the fans turned on temp stabilized, fans ran at low speed. I had it idling for a good 20 minutes hot. I revved it up and it it came down to idle and died out, not like a stall or stumble but a shut off. I had a data log going but I can't seem to see what it might be. If anyone has more suggestions that would be great. I think it is on the correct path.

thanks

[TBART70]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wfhjq773kh...brid.hefi?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/19fx4w22re...00326.csv?dl=0

I used the base fuel you suggested, my timing table and the IEA table he supplied. Turned on learn all the way around. Fans came on, cycled and then maintained low speed. No stalling. I thing a few changes need to be made to A/F table. Why do you think Dennis said not to transfer learn to base? Any other suggestions before I drive it again?

The cutout the other day of fuel pressure I think was because of the fuel pump controller getting confused. I have a ground trigger from the HP to go to full voltage at 2500 rpm, and a bypass switch. I still need to set the rpm on the FPC unit. I will turn off the HP trigger and use the bypass at full voltage for now until I can work out the bugs. Let me know what you think.

Thanks for all of the help. I think I learned a lot in the last week or two. I hope someone else can use this to help others.

[TBART70]

Does anyone know what diag 1 1000000.00 means
Ran the car , slight hesitation from dead stop that was not there before, will mess with AE tables to deal with that.
I had a red blinking light on the LCDTS on the gauge screen and the error code listed above. How do you clear them out?

[TBART70]

Hi all again. Been chasing oil pressure issues since day one. Went through 2 sets hydraulics and switched to solids, pin oiled first then non pin oiled to bring up oil pressure. Needless to say I pulled the motor due to a lot of metal in oil filter, and low oil pressure. The cam gear is wiped. Motor is getting redone. New cam, going from 108 LC to 110 LC. Hydraulic grind, solid Morel pin oiled lifters. Went with different cam company this time. Upping duration a touch, and lift on exhaust. Also doing 4/7 swap. It won't be installed as advanced as before. Will re-dyno with Carb like last time. Will have actual cam specs in a week or two. Trying to figure out what I need to do before it goes back in. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom

[andrewb70]

Tom,

Time to sell the big block and do a LS swap.

Andrew

[TBART70]

Trust me I thought about it. I can't to much time and money invested.

[andrewb70]

Trust me I thought about it. I can't to much time and money invested.

Sunk costs. Past expenditures should not influence future decision making. Sell it all and never look back. You can keep the Holley and use it on the LS.

Andrew

[z28orshoot]

Hey Tom,

when you get the motor back together and need help with the holley let me know. That cam is easily tuned on the holley but you have some limitations with the IAC. the Diag 1 is the crank and cam sensors. the ones and ten spot(first and second to the left of the decimal point are the crank and cam. It looks good.

Im looking at the tune and log that you posted earlier and it seems that right before the stall and return to idle your fuel pressure is cut off. Any reason for this?

I will help any way i can. Personally the Holley is the easiest and most user friendly ecu out there.

[nokones]

The Holley ECU is very robust. Most idle problems with the Holley EFI ECUs are related to how the ECU power leads are connected for power. There is a reason why Holley emphasizes that the power leads "MUST" be connected directly to the battery and not another power point such as the solenoid, etc. Also, there is a reason why there is a 40 amp fuses in the power lead. This computer draws a lot of power and that is why they want the power lead connected directly to the battery to avoid any power drops because the computer does not like it. Also, dirty power from noise makers like fans, MSD boxes, etc.

Also, they say you must run a significant size ground cable from the battery to the engine block.

After you have routed the power leads directly to the battery and added the additional ground cable, you'll be surprised on how much your idle will improve. I founded out the hard way myself.

[TBART70]

Hey Tom,

when you get the motor back together and need help with the holley let me know. That cam is easily tuned on the holley but you have some limitations with the IAC. the Diag 1 is the crank and cam sensors. the ones and ten spot(first and second to the left of the decimal point are the crank and cam. It looks good.

Im looking at the tune and log that you posted earlier and it seems that right before the stall and return to idle your fuel pressure is cut off. Any reason for this?

I will help any way i can. Personally the Holley is the easiest and most user friendly ecu out there.

I appreciate the response and help. I thought I posted up all that has been done to the tune. It is all on Holley EFI board ,http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?18460-Hot-Stall. I like to post up fixes that worked so people can learn from my mistakes, and learn from other people who help me. I forgot to update here.

I Had it running pretty good except for the O/P problem. I was just wondering what differences you think I should look at before I fire it up with the new cam. I think it will be OK, and the learn will take care of it. I am thinking 2 1/8" headers instead of the 2" on it now. What do you think?

Thanks, Tom

[andrewb70]

Make sure you change the firing order in the tune before you fire it up.

Andrew

[gator68428]

I read the first three pages of this thread about the idle not getting down below 1000 RPM. Had this exact problem with my Dad's 440ci Pontiac with a very similar 240+ duration cam, with ~60 kpa at idle.
IAC was at 5 (or whatever the min value was, essentially closed), throttle plates completely closed, no vac leaks and the engine would not idle below 1200rpm.

We completely fixed the issue by enabling the timing trim function. This allows the ECU to vary timing up or down as an additional control of idle rpm. Helps to lower the idle (retards timing) or raise it when more torque is needed (advances timing). The function is: y axis is "spark offset" vs x axis "Idle RPM error". We programmed the function to gradually rise from 0,0 to 7 deg at 112rpm or higher idle error.

After doing this and setting the idle base timing to about 9deg adv, the ECU was able to modulate timing from between 2deg to 16deg adv, to control idle. It did and we were able to command the idle anywhere between 700 and 900 no prob. A little lumpy below 800... But was nice to fix the issue.

This was the FAST XFI 2.0 system. But because the prob sounded identical I piped in. I would imagine the Holley system has a similar function?

[TBART70]

Already done waiting to send to ECM when ready.

Make sure you change the firing order in the tune before you fire it up.

Andrew

[TBART70]

I read the first three pages of this thread about the idle not getting down below 1000 RPM. Had this exact problem with my Dad's 440ci Pontiac with a very similar 240+ duration cam, with ~60 kpa at idle.
IAC was at 5 (or whatever the min value was, essentially closed), throttle plates completely closed, no vac leaks and the engine would not idle below 1200rpm.

We completely fixed the issue by enabling the timing trim function. This allows the ECU to vary timing up or down as an additional control of idle rpm. Helps to lower the idle (retards timing) or raise it when more torque is needed (advances timing). The function is: y axis is "spark offset" vs x axis "Idle RPM error". We programmed the function to gradually rise from 0,0 to 7 deg at 112rpm or higher idle error.

After doing this and setting the idle base timing to about 9deg adv, the ECU was able to modulate timing from between 2deg to 16deg adv, to control idle. It did and we were able to command the idle anywhere between 700 and 900 no prob. A little lumpy below 800... But was nice to fix the issue.

This was the FAST XFI 2.0 system. But because the prob sounded identical I piped in. I would imagine the Holley system has a similar function?

Holley has a setup, can't think k of what it is called at the moment, that does exactly that. Unfortunately this thing likes timing. The way I got it to idle and run better was adding timing and removing all the bandaids that I put in place to get it to work. I had Dave from EFI ....( can't think of his company name in California at the moment), tune it. He made the base fuel table work better at making it run instead of using all the variables that I threw at it. It wasn't perfect but it was better. Then I messed with timing and idle settings one at a time,( bad habit of changing too many things at once), and it was good. Also added a table to bring rpm up when A/C was on and also if temp was over a certain point knowing the fans would be on full. I could fire it up just by reaching in and turning the key, and no more hot stall. Hopefully I won't go backwards too much with the changes.

[Danny Cabral]

Holley has a setup, can't think of what it's called at the moment, that does exactly that.

With Holley EFI, it's called the "Idle Spark" control in the Idle ICF. Ensure it's enabled, and try a 30/40 P Term & 50/60 D Term.

Also, ensure the Base Fuel Table is smooth by viewing & blending the Fuel Graph. It's very important to have a smooth Fuel Graph.
One aspect of viewing the Fuel Graph: It's better to zoom in, by highlighting segments of the Base Fuel Table (left click & drag), and click "Graph".
This method offers much greater detail. Looking at the entire "Fuel Graph" will almost always look smooth, because it's not as magnified.
TIP: When the Fuel Graph is smooth, click "Conversion" (VE% Conversion mode) and continue smoothing the general contour of the VE Fuel Graph.

[TBART70]

Sent the heads out to be flowed and ported. Probably won't be back together and running until August. Going to dyno it with the injection.

[nokones]

Holley has a setup, can't think k of what it is called at the moment, that does exactly that. Unfortunately this thing likes timing. The way I got it to idle and run better was adding timing and removing all the bandaids that I put in place to get it to work. I had Dave from EFI ....( can't think of his company name in California at the moment), tune it. He made the base fuel table work better at making it run instead of using all the variables that I threw at it. It wasn't perfect but it was better. Then I messed with timing and idle settings one at a time,( bad habit of changing too many things at once), and it was good. Also added a table to bring rpm up when A/C was on and also if temp was over a certain point knowing the fans would be on full. I could fire it up just by reaching in and turning the key, and no more hot stall. Hopefully I won't go backwards too much with the changes.

It is Autotrend EFI out of Diamond Springs, CA I used him several times, some remote and some in his shop. Diamond Springs is located near Placerville east of Sacramento, just in case you were wondering where in the hell is Diamond Springs. Dave is very knowledgeable

[TBART70]

Got the motor together and dynoed. Not with the injection like I wanted, but a much bigger intake this time. New cam and solid lifters, better ported heads, hone job, rings, bearings, new springs. 252 @ .050 261 @ .050. lift .672 before lash and deflection. 110 LSA.

It made 739.9 hp and 727.8 tq. hopefully easier to tune with injection, more street able.

[carbuff]

That sounds pretty solid, especially the torque number! Can you summarize the setup at this point, I don't recall what everything is?