Holley efi tuner

[BonzoHansen]

In case you are still looking i believe Dave at http://www.efxtuning.com tunes holley.

[TBART70]

John,

Are you sure about that? Looking at the picture it looks like a LS1 80mm throttle body that edelbrock makes. Which would make it non pwm idle control.

Andrew

Edelbrock 36015 - Edelbrock EFI Sensors Details

Sensors/Idle Motors

This GM stepper motor style Idle Air Control is a replacement for Edelbrock universal Four barrel and XT 90mm throttle bodies.

[andrewb70]

Edelbrock 36015 - Edelbrock EFI Sensors Details

Sensors/Idle Motors



This GM stepper motor style Idle Air Control is a replacement for Edelbrock universal Four barrel and XT 90mm throttle bodies.

Right, so it is not a pwm TB.

Is the throttle blade closed enough to give the AIC some range of travel? Also remember that when you adjust the throttle blade set screw you need to perform a TPS auto set. Sorry if this has been mentioned before.

Andrew

[TBART70]

Had to pull engine due to oil pressure issue. Will be back in soon and back at driving and tuning.

$1000.00 Titan Gerotor pump, gaskets, cleaners, time and fluids ,pressure problem solved.

[Fuelie Nova]

Keep us posted
Tom

[TBART70]

Seems to run better with good pressure to the lifters. Has a lot more power. still need to adjust valves again. Set the timing and took it for a ride. I still cannot get iac to to work. It is either 0 or 100. Idle is a touch high, if I bring it down and do a tps relearn when the fans ramp up it wants to slowly stall. If I keep it high it is better, no stalling.

[andrewb70]

Seems to run better with good pressure to the lifters. Has a lot more power. still need to adjust valves again. Set the timing and took it for a ride. I still cannot get iac to to work. It is either 0 or 100. Idle is a touch high, if I bring it down and do a tps relearn when the fans ramp up it wants to slowly stall. If I keep it high it is better, no stalling.

Email me your global folder. You'll have to turn it into a zip file first. I'll PM you my email address.

Andrew

[TBART70]

Thank you Andrew for helping me out. The man knows his stuff. I will make the changes that we discussed and drive it. He got it to start and idle much better than I could also made changes and suggestions to fuel , spark and A/F ratio settings. I think I am on the right path now.

Thanks again will be in touch with and update.

[TBART70]

[carbuff]

So what did you find?

[andrewb70]

So what did you find?

I am suspecting a bad IAC or something related to the air bleed. I've never seen a TB with an air bleed so I am a little unsure how it functions. The engine is hard to start without cracking the throttle blade with the pedal. This led me to think that the AIC park position needed to be higher. We did this, lowered cranking fuel, bumped crancking spark advance just a little (12 degrees) and all that made it better.

However, the engine still didn't start just by cranking the key. Opening the throttle blades even a little more resulted in the AIC to slowly go to zero and the desired idle speed wasn't attainable. The cam is fairly lumpy, but not crazy. This engines idles just about where the Cougar (about 57-60kPa). The target AFR was also too low, so I fixed that table. Spark timing at idle is also critical and needs to be constant in the cells around where the engine idles. Little changes made a big difference.

I am having Tom replace the IAC and I am going to read up on this particular TB. Tom also need to just drive the car and get the fuel map dialed in. It's pretty fat right now but with the awesome learn function that will get sorted out with some miles.

Another area that I would like to confirm is the ignition. I haven't played around with a distributor in a long time, so I need to read up on all that. When I talked with Tom he seemed pretty confident that it was all good, but we just need to verify again. The cam synch takes a two full revolutions but beyond that this engine takes too long to start for my taste.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

Tom,

I found the ignition synchronizing instructions.

http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ing-Holley-EFI

Can you go through this process and let's make sure it is 100% correct.

Andrew

[TBART70]

Yes this is how I did it. Second time around was easier.

[andrewb70]

Tom,

The link below will help you set the throttle blade and the air bleed screw. Looks like we need to shoot for a 2% IAC position at hot idle:

http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info

Andrew

[TBART70]

did not see anything pertaining to air screw?

[andrewb70]

did not see anything pertaining to air screw?

It's not air screw specific, but that information seemed very helpful. Since your TB has both a blade and an air screw adjustment, we need to find a balance between the two in order to get the IAC to be at 2% at hot idle. I would start with the blade cracked just a little and use the air bleed screw to get the engine to idle at 900RPM with the IAC air passage taped off.

Andrew

[TBART70]

sounds good

[TBART70]

Back to the drawing board. I have to change the lifters. One is collapsed. I have Morels which are good for high spring pressure. I think but I am not sure if the low oil pressure hurt it. Straub tech said they can run as low as 9 psi. I have to find out what other brand of lifters can hold high spring pressure. Otherwise I will have to remove shims from the spring seat.

[carbuff]

It sounds like you found a combination of little things to resolve. On the IAC position for hot idle, Ive had a REALLY hard time getting mine to settle to the 2% range. Maybe the single / large blade will make it easier. Mine frustrates me because if I get the engine up to temp in the garage and get it set, then go drive it, it's way off when it is fully heat soaked. If I then set for that, it's off the other way when it's not. I end up shooting for between 5 and 8% on mine and live with that.

You have move idle vacuum than I do. With the new cam, I'm around 68-70. I'm having to do a lot more work re-tuning my ECU after the cam swap than I expected, to the point where I need to get the base map much more dialed in than it currently is. I'm hoping to get a dyno session set up soon after I fully resolve my recent oil leak.

I'm curious to hear what the ultimate solution on the IAC is. When it was mentioned that it was jumping between 0 and 100%, that didn't make sense. Most of my learning has come from the Holley forums, there is a lot of good information there. Keep at it, once you have it dialed in, you should be really happy with it.

[andrewb70]

It sounds like you found a combination of little things to resolve. On the IAC position for hot idle, Ive had a REALLY hard time getting mine to settle to the 2% range. Maybe the single / large blade will make it easier. Mine frustrates me because if I get the engine up to temp in the garage and get it set, then go drive it, it's way off when it is fully heat soaked. If I then set for that, it's off the other way when it's not. I end up shooting for between 5 and 8% on mine and live with that.

You have move idle vacuum than I do. With the new cam, I'm around 68-70. I'm having to do a lot more work re-tuning my ECU after the cam swap than I expected, to the point where I need to get the base map much more dialed in than it currently is. I'm hoping to get a dyno session set up soon after I fully resolve my recent oil leak.

I'm curious to hear what the ultimate solution on the IAC is. When it was mentioned that it was jumping between 0 and 100%, that didn't make sense. Most of my learning has come from the Holley forums, there is a lot of good information there. Keep at it, once you have it dialed in, you should be really happy with it.

Bryan,

Just to clarify, the IAC was not just jumping around from 100-0. It was moving in response to setting the throttle blade (doing a TPS auto set after each time). Little adjustments to the big blade resulted in big changes to the IAC behavior. I suspect this is why Edelbrock included the air bleed screw as that probably give an ability for much finer air flow adjustment than changing the blade angle.

Cam choice is really critical for EFI tuning. Once you start going about 55-60kPa at idle, tuning becomes harder as your range gets reduced. Fifty seven kPa is 15 inches of vacuum, and I would consider that the lowest vacuum for relatively easy EFI tuning. Any engine with less than 15 inches of vacuum and things get harder. Bryan, if you have 70kPa at idle that's only about 10 inches of vacuum.

Andrew