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    Results 21 to 26 of 26
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,975
      Country Flag: United States
      Here is what I found in my trials and tribulations with muscle car audio. I have a decent 3 channel system and it sounds pretty damn good when the car is parked. Once the engine is running and the car is moving, all the bass gets washed out big time. Take that for what you will, but unless you spend a ridiculous amount of time, money, and a lot of added weight, the odds of having a lot of bass when the car is moving are minimal.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States

      Help me design a stereo system for MotiV8r

      Do you need rear speakers or are good front enough? My Volvo is a pretty small car but will have a small back seat that my kids will ride in. Would it be worth it to replicate the front setup in the back or some simple coaxial speakers?

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Posts
      448
      Country Flag: United States
      I haven't run Rear speakers in at least 10 years. Rear speakers actually make it harder to tune and degrade the audio signal. A solid 2 way front and a sub is great for most situations.

      Scott
      '66 Chevelle


    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Huntington Beach CA
      Posts
      106
      Country Flag: United States
      Go simple AND lightweight. A single 8" sub or 10" sub with a Jl Audio 900/5 and a nice set of speakers all he way around will be plenty for even an audiophile in the awful acoustics of a muscle car. Oh, and make sure to throw some sound deadening at it....

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      San Antonio, TX
      Posts
      1,632
      Many good relies already, I'll throw in my $.02:
      - dynamat the interior and doors, roof, rear quarter, and rear bulkhead, 36 sq ft box = interior floor, 1 box for roof, a 3rd box for trunk and scraps here & there to reduce interior buzz.
      - pick the better quality speakers you like, components in the front are best, higher end speakers may have external crossovers, like the components do. If you go with 2-way or 3-way speakers in front, angled kickpods help with the speaker placement, and open up the soundstage.
      - match the amp to the power the speakers need, rule is to provide in the upper 30% of RMS, some quality speakers (woofers) can exceed 100% or RMS, tweeters usually do not like, crossovers can tolerate a little over, you can tune the amp gain to avoid excess..
      - I prefer a single 12" sub in a sealed (1 sq ft) box, I insulate the interior of my subs w dynamat Xtreme, huge difference!
      - if you want a sub that booms, most woofers use a larger ported box, sealed boxes give you more impact.
      - sub specs will help you weed out thirsty subs, the higher sensitivity, the louder they play with less power, 87,90,93 sensitivity are 2x power stepping up to the next: 87 db sensitivity will need 2x the power to play as loud as the 90 db, The 87 will need 4x the power to sound as loud as a sub with 93 sensitivity.

      My car has 3 boxes of dynamat Xtreme, a decent head unit for the time, an old-school EQ/amp balancer for ease of use, 6 1/2 3-way speakers in front kick pods, 6x9 3-way speakers under rear deck, 3.5" speakers in dash aimed at windshield, single 12" sub in trunk, and a 6 ch amp.
      All speakers are 95/96 sensitivity Infinity Kappa, sub is 4 ohm, speakers are 2 ohm, drawing more power from the amp.
      The Infinity take a month or so to break in, they are extremely clean, the single 12" with the sub crossover and gain are the most tweaked setting, as you can hear the difference in CD engineering.
      Focal, Alpine, JL, Boston all have similar offerings.
      You can get free component matching advice from Crutchfield.com, or a trusted local shop.
      Dave
      84 Monte SS - just a few bolt-ons

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      30
      Country Flag: United States
      2-way or 3 way components set up front. 10" or 12" sub for your rear fill in sealed enclosure. One 5ch or 6ch amp to power the entire system. Arc Audio XDI v2 1000.5 or 1200.6. Use good sound deadener, not made in china stuff the cheap stuff online. I always use STP and ground zero. Russian made butyl has the highest quality. Other deadeners mixes tar with very little butyl like dynamt brands are made in china. Some CCF also if you can swing it cost wise. All wiring should be 100% copper (power and speaker) not CCA wire. The most important part to having a audiophile system is sound deadening. reducing outside noise, rattles is to lower the noise floor. which in turn you dont need a high power 2500 + watt system to hear your music. you can do it easily with under 1000 watts rms system. attention to detail on installation and having quality equipment. It better to get great used equipment rather then new fair new equipment that promise these world claims in performance.

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