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    Results 21 to 25 of 25
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      North Dakota
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow, first off, sorry i left this thread hanging for a month... went on vacation and was pretty busy catching up with work when i got back. Thank you to everyone for your imput. A couple days ago I took the car down to Dickinson for an estimate, now this car is straight and rust-free aside from a dime sized hole in the A-pillar. I think it is in great shape... the body shop however told me it would cost atleast $10,000 to paint it and said it would require over 100 hours of bodywork before they could even prep it for paint... I honestly think they were either out of their mind or didnt really want the extra work.

      So, my plan of attack now is to get with one of the guys at work and move the car to his garage. He has quite a bit of restoration experience and is building a sweet Kustom 50 'Merc. We are going to tackle what little body work is left and then cover the car with some self etching primer and sanding primer and prep the car for paint. I also need to find a grille/left tail lamps/windshield/weatherstripping/ and rear window trim to finish the car out. I have not decided on whether I will paint it out here or take it back home in September and actually have a shop do it... but I have decided on GM Victory Red as the color as I find it a great shade of red and it will be very easy to touch up the inevitable rock chips and road rash out here. I will try to keep this thread updated to give other DIYers a reference and I will be starting my own build thread soon

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Oswego il
      Posts
      938
      Country Flag: United States
      Scrub it down with evaporust and scotchbrite, the label says it neutralizes with water, but I mix baking soda and water to be sure. Blow dry with air, laquer thinner to remove remnants, DA with 80 grit, wipe with wax degreaser, shoot primer.

      I've been using PPG DP90LF, or PPG shopline PG377. I'll use SPI primer on my next project, wanna try their products.

      Victory Red, I have a truck that color so I'm partial to it, check out SPI's red though. Really rich color, victory red can look orange at times. Your primer color will effect your ultimate topcoat color in the sun. Ask any painter who's had to color match red.

      Have you decided what brand paint you're using?

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,489
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by indyjps View Post
      Scrub it down with evaporust and scotchbrite, the label says it neutralizes with water, but I mix baking soda and water to be sure. Blow dry with air, laquer thinner to remove remnants, DA with 80 grit, wipe with wax degreaser, shoot primer.

      I've been using PPG DP90LF, or PPG shopline PG377. I'll use SPI primer on my next project, wanna try their products.

      Victory Red, I have a truck that color so I'm partial to it, check out SPI's red though. Really rich color, victory red can look orange at times. Your primer color will effect your ultimate topcoat color in the sun. Ask any painter who's had to color match red.

      Have you decided what brand paint you're using?
      I am pretty sure SPI says that their product cannot be applied to metal treated with products like Evaporust. There is only one that they recommend.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Oswego il
      Posts
      938
      Country Flag: United States
      Yep, neutralize the rust, whichever brand you decide on, neutralize the derusting product, clean the panel, then DA, then clean the panel and paint. When you DA the panel and clean with wax degreaser from the manufacturer of your paint products, you are sanding and cleaning any residue off and providing the appropriate surface for the primer to bite.

      Biggest thing is to kill the surface rust completely before applying primer, just DA'ing won't get it all and will come back to haunt you.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      I did notice in a earlier post you said you would mix up a couple of gallons of epoxy primer, i don't know if you meant that literally or not but unless your going to use it all at once, do not mix it all up at once. It will set up in the can.


      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.


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