Green or Orange & why?

[Samckitt]

Aluminum block, heads & radiator. Which antifreeze, Green or orange, & why?

I have heard either one, not much different. This is not a track car. I have heard people say no antifreeze on the track, just water.

[WallaceMFG]

I've been told with aluminum engines to use real Dexcool from a GM dealer, not the stuff you can get at autozone. I'm sure the other oem companies make coolant for aluminum engines.

[TheJDMan]

It doesn't really matter what color you decide on. Aluminum cooling system components have been around for a lot of years and every anti-freeze on the market is designed to protect them. Choose a quality name brand 50/50 mix with distilled water and go. Personally I use NAPA Extended Life which is compatible with all colors. The biggest issue is not mixing the different types.

[Ron]

Color is a marketing decision, it has no bearing on type or performance. Which ever brand you purchase, be sure and follow the manufactures instructions not only at install but maintaining the system. Most problems with coolant occur due to contamination when the system needs maintenance or topping off. Adding the wrong type coolant, incompatible additives and /or water may cause catastrophic system component failures. Read and follow the instruction will help avoid some big problems down the road.

[Samckitt]

I normally wouldn't pay that much attention to it & just put green Prestone in it, kind I have used for years. But now all these parts are aluminum (LS block, heads & the new radiator).


From the company that made the radiator. They say:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________

Prestone Extended Life - Prestone has been making coolant for nearly an entire century. Given that amount of experience, it's safe to assume that the company knows a thing or two about making a quality product. The Extended Life antifreeze is both effective and economical, and is suitable for use in all makes and models according to Prestone. Given that, care should be taken to ensure that mixing Prestone Extended Life antifreeze with what is already in the cooling system will not result in undesirable effects such as gelling. This antifreeze is designed to be mixed with distilled water for maximum effectiveness.

Zerex G-05 – This longlife antifreeze coolant (150,000 miles) is formulated for passenger cars, light trucks, and heavy duty vehicles. When diluted 50% with distilled water, Zerex G-05 protect engine components to -34 degrees F with a boiling point of 265 degrees F, Its lower silicate, reduced pH, phosphate free technology protects all cooling system metals, including aluminum, from corrosion.

PEAK - This antifreeze is green, and is formulated to work in all cars and trucks sold today. The product contains special additives designed to protect aluminum and resist corrosion, all in the name of preserving the cooling system. However, special care should be taken to determine whether this product can be mixed with the antifreeze already in your vehicle's cooling system, as certain chemicals can cause gelling when mixed. Peak Antifreeze is highly effective in preventing freezing, as evidenced by its -84 degree F rating. This product is easily found in auto parts stores, and is ready to use straight out of the bottle.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________



Zerex & Peak are the only ones that mention aluminum. I'll probably pick one of those two.


Next question: Am I missing something here, spend $13.xx for the concentrated coolant, and $1.xx for a gallon of distilled water for a total of less than $16 for 2 gallons, or spend $15.xx each a 50/50 mixture times 2 gallons comes to like $32. Is there more to the 50/50 mixture than half coolant & half distilled water?

[vintageracer]

Color is a marketing decision, it has no bearing on type or performance. Which ever brand you purchase, be sure and follow the manufactures instructions not only at install but maintaining the system. Most problems with coolant occur due to contamination when the system needs maintenance or topping off. Adding the wrong type coolant, incompatible additives and /or water may cause catastrophic system component failures. Read and follow the instruction will help avoid some big problems down the road.

Take Ron's comments about cooling system maintenance to heart. Contaminated and/or old coolant can cause all sorts of problems. Just ask the owners of 6.0 Powerstrokes and Cadillac Northstar owners. All the problems are coolant related in the cause of the well publicized problems these engines enjoy.

Hardly anybody services or changes the coolant in their car. When is time to change coolant? When the hose breaks or the water pump takes a $$hitt. All the coolants manufactured today are good. Don't believe it just ask the manufacturer and they will tell you why their coolant is the best!



Change you coolant every 2 years with a quality product and you will not have any problems. Pick a coolant recommended for your type vehicle and get on with life. Also make sure that you add any OEM manufacturer recommended supplements and/or pellets. They are recommending and adding these supplements to your vehicle for a reason! Of course you can get your coolant information from "Bubba" at your local parts counter or the local mechanic shop who knows a Hell of a lot more automotive coolants than the engineers at the OEM's who engineered and manufactured the vehicle so Bubba must be right.

Buy the correct coolant and follow a strict service schedule and you will be fine! Probably even more important on a toy car that sits most of the time.

[iadr]

Sounds like at least one person on this thread thinks the change "new Gen" type coolants have to do with aluminum. NOT true at all. Completely unrelated.

[MonzaRacer]

Use either G-05 (which is Fords extended life antifreeze and doesn't attack plastic tanks or intakes) OR www.evancooling.com and run their non-aqueous propylene glycol that has zero pressure boiling point of 375°F, and doesn't freeze just turns slushy.
So with good catch/expansion tank and not having to run a pressurized system eliminates any chance of pressure failures and the stuff literally doesn't boil.
I have seen engines run at nearly 400°F and have zero damage with the Evans coolant.