How many with a lift?

[Justin@EntropyRad]

4-posts for the win!

[ChevelleNV]

4-posts for the win!

That's more like 22 post for the win... Ill take 2 of em

[hifi875]

Mine is a quality lift made by challenger. it has wider ramps but the post are tighter so it doesnt take up as much with in my garage.

[TheJDMan]

I have owned my Stinger 4 post lift for close to 20 years made in the USA. In that time the only problem I have had is the lift cylinder packing started leaking. $15 worth of O-rings and backup rings, problem solved. http://www.stingerlifts.com/

[Stupidnewbie]

I'm interested in this lift, as it would work well for my garage. Does anyone have experience and/or opinions? Found it for $2500 online.

[vintageracer]

we have discussed this subject before in the garage section.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ny-with-a-lift

many times!

[Restomod]

I have a Benpak 4 post and i love it. I guess 2 or 4 post comes down to the ammount of room or layout of your shop. For me a 2 post would have taken up most of my shop.

[woodside783]

I have 10' ceilings and get by. 12' would be ideal. Mine was delivered to my door in a freight truck. 4 of us unloaded and had it together in about 4 hours. The heaviest part was the side that also contained the hydraulic cylinder.

how thick dose the floor need to be for this brand?

[TheJDMan]

how thick dose the floor need to be for this brand?

Since no one has answered, a four post lift can be used on any standard 4" to 6" thick concrete garage floor with no special requirements and most can be outfitted with caster wheels so they can be moved around easily. A two post lift will require dedicated concrete mounting pads that include anchor bolts in the floor to bolt it to. Once a two post is installed it cannot be moved. There are advantages and disadvantages to both designs.

[MonzaRacer]

Here is where the previous Midas I worked in got a PV9P
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/

While its not necessarily American made they are definitely well built and seem to be rated lifts. The drive on alignment racks pretty good too.

[BMR Sales]

Since no one has answered, a four post lift can be used on any standard 4" thick concrete garage floor with no special requirements and most can be outfitted with caster wheels so they can be moved around easily. A two post lift will require dedicated concrete mounting pads that include anchor bolts in the floor to bolt it to. Once a two post is installed it cannot be moved. There are advantages and disadvantages to both designs.

I would say that you want Thicker than 4". To me 4" is sidewalk depth, not something you want your car or lift sitting on. I was stuck with what I had (Fourteen, yes 14" thick Slab), so I have anchor Bolts.

Yes Castor Kits are available, but I don't like them

[andrewb70]

I merged the threads to keep it tidy around here...

Andrew

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Attachment 89124

Gotta love the disco ball .. LOL

[BMR Sales]

4-posts for the win!

Indoors at Canepa

[yellow1098Greg]

I just installed a maxjax lift in my small garage and it's pretty darn cool. I still need to bleed the system as it comes up slightly shaky and uneven with nothing on it, but not by much at all. It's actually pretty dam good for a first setup. I know that a full size lift is much better but as you can see this is the best I'm going to do with my garage. If you guys have any info on how to get the system bled and solid that would be great!

The main question I have is what are the best lifting points for my 77 TA? I was thinking the back of the front frame and the front of the rear subframe. That is always where I have put my jack stands in the past but I know this is a slightly different situation. What is the center of gravity on our cars? As I know they are slightly front heavy. Thank so much for your input and help! Any pics would be wonderful.

Another important question I had was...I used 5 redhead 3/4 5.5 inches wedge anchor bolts...I have tightened them as hard as I can and when I put the weight of the car on the lift and set it back down... the nuts are loose again...is that the bolts are flexing with the weight of the car? Just wanna make sure it's safe before I get under it. I actually asked head this question and they replayed with this...what do you guys think? I'm not so sure........

"That will pretension the sleeve and bolt. The bolt has bell that pushes out on the sleeve which wedges the anchor in the concrete. The weight has pulled the bolt into the sleeve further which is good as it is wedged even more. The more stress on the bolt the more it wedges. Just retighten the bolts and you will be good to go"

Thanks for your help! Just wanna be as safe as possible...

[z28orshoot]

If you do a lot of tire and suspension stuff then the by far the 2 post. However, if its mostly for storage, cleaning and oil change type maintenance then 4 post will work. An easy way to solve these problems is to buy both. I have both (10k asymmetric and 12k alignment at the house) and my 2 post gets used more for actual work, and the 4 post is quick checks,exhaust, chassis setup etc. Both can be used for most all work but i find it easier when you dont have the runways in the way for some jobs.

Biggest concern in slab thickness. If you are not sure, then cut and re pour the mounting pads.

Be sure you invest in several (3-4+) under hoist stands if you get a 2 post. Everything is easier standing up then laying on your back.

There is no cons to owning a lift other than the money spend on mods or other cars to put on the lift. Oh yeah, you will find that friends congregate at your shop when you have a lift for simple work.........

[SonomaZ]

Purchased a Bendpak 4-post within the last year and I have no idea how I managed without one for the last 15.
I did the LED strip lighting similar to the poster on page 1 and also have duplex outlets mounted on either end for easy electrical access and less dangling cords from battery chargers and such.

I'm sure a 2-post might be better for some things, but so far I've been able to do "wheels-off" work with a couple sliding platforms, bottle jacks and stands.

**edit**
Referenced poster with LED lights has a dedicated thread on the subject: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...st-Lift-Lights
Thanks TheJDMan for a great idea!!

[MTZ28]

I went with a 2 post Challenger CL10V3. I decided to go with the challenger because of the arm configuration. They're a 3 stage design, so it can be an asymmetric lift for lighter vehicles and a symmetric lift for heavy vehicles. My vote will always go towards a two post for working on cars, if the room is available. I've worked on four post lifts and find them ackward for anything other than routine maintenance, but I hope to have one in the future for storage purposes. However, any lift is better than no lift, as long as it's a safe one.

In the pic, you'll see I have my camaro backed into the lift. With the 3 stage arm, you can be very flexible with car placement. Keeping in mind that the center of gravity changes when a car is in various phases of the build. (The wiring is temporary, just couldn't wait to try it)

Not trying to be an advertisement for this lift. I just never saw one like this before and I really like it.

[Bygblok]

I just installed a maxjax lift in my small garage and it's pretty darn cool. I still need to bleed the system as it comes up slightly shaky and uneven with nothing on it, but not by much at all. It's actually pretty dam good for a first setup. I know that a full size lift is much better but as you can see this is the best I'm going to do with my garage. If you guys have any info on how to get the system bled and solid that would be great!

The main question I have is what are the best lifting points for my 77 TA? I was thinking the back of the front frame and the front of the rear subframe. That is always where I have put my jack stands in the past but I know this is a slightly different situation. What is the center of gravity on our cars? As I know they are slightly front heavy. Thank so much for your input and help! Any pics would be wonderful.

Another important question I had was...I used 5 redhead 3/4 5.5 inches wedge anchor bolts...I have tightened them as hard as I can and when I put the weight of the car on the lift and set it back down... the nuts are loose again...is that the bolts are flexing with the weight of the car? Just wanna make sure it's safe before I get under it. I actually asked head this question and they replayed with this...what do you guys think? I'm not so sure........

"That will pretension the sleeve and bolt. The bolt has bell that pushes out on the sleeve which wedges the anchor in the concrete. The weight has pulled the bolt into the sleeve further which is good as it is wedged even more. The more stress on the bolt the more it wedges. Just retighten the bolts and you will be good to go"

Thanks for your help! Just wanna be as safe as possible...

how do you like the maxjax setup so far? I'm considering doing the same thing and it only says you need 4" of concrete @3,000psi tensil strength and that's what my new shop was poured at. I'll have 10ft ceilings in the shop but don't want to put my car's roof in the sheetrock up top! I like the maxjax due to it being portable so if I'm not using it I can still have my whole shop open for door swings etc. The shop is a 30x30.

[yellow1098Greg]

I love my maxjax for the size of my garage....the 4" of concrete will work just fine....it being portable is a great feature but mine isn't setup that way as I didn't use the threaded sleeve type of anchors...I just used the concrete wedge style which are pretty permanent. The only thing I'm looking for now are some adjustable lift pads to accommodate my subframe connectors