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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      381
      Country Flag: United States

      Looking at 2 project Camaros and cant make up mind!!!

      So, I have a dilemma. I am looking to purchase 1 of 2 camaros and I cant make up my mind! They are both 67 Camaros and have different pros and cons to each. My initial intent was to buy a camaro that I can drive and not be worried about scratches, dings ect. But I just cant let that nice show quality paint go either. When I pull into a car show or Goodguys event I want people to somewhat notice a nicely painted car.

      Camaro 1 is light blue camaro that needs paint in the future, it has a black cowl hood on it currently. It has a mild 454 crate motor with a 200R4 tranny. It has a have decent interior but will need some work. It has DSE UCA and LCA arms and the coilover conversion kit installed. DSE frame connectors. Moser 12 bolt with 33 spline axles. It has C4 or C5 disc brakes but they look very dirty and used. Over the car is good with some great parts, just needs a good deal of cleaning and paint someday (which in Ohio will be $8k plus) Vintage wheel works V45's. Aftermarket wiring harness.

      Camaro 2 is $5000 more then camaro one. Its dark blue with beautiful paint and fit and finish. It has an all stock suspension with caltrac bars. A 12 bolt with posi. It has a 540 HP 421 cu in small block. With a muncie 4 speed. Weld wheels and drag radials. Looks like a race car but really is just a street cruiser. Interior looks great! Missing all the DSE equipment and at the top of my budget to purchase.

      Both will need rims and tires to my liking. Camaro 2 will need disc brakes and some suspension work. I have a TKO600 5 speed I can through in camaro 2.

      Do you buy a car to paint or do you buy a car painted for $5000 more and then add all goodies you want?

      This decision is tough and I know its ultimately up to me. I am just used to nice looking rides that are are painted and show real nice. But then I am alos afraid to drive them to work and stuff like that.

      Thanks, Erik

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Sunset, Texas
      Posts
      79
      Country Flag: United States
      Seems easy to me. Do you want a driver or a show car. If you want a driver, car #1, with the DSE parts. That one would be more pleasurable to drive. If a show car is what you want, then the stock suspension won't matter with #2 . Decide want you want the car for.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Atlanta GA
      Posts
      7,477
      Well.. if youre in Ohio and Camaro number 2 is SURELY solid.. Id go with number 2.

      why?

      cause Paint Prison is LONGER than bolt on suspension shop jail.

      You can buy all those things Camaro 1 has for a good deal from the vendors here and guys parting out their builds along the way.. and shorter time installing em.


      plus you sound like a dude that just likes to go cruising.. and you sound like a visual guy rather than the all out PT head.. so again number 2 wins.

      the only problem I think is the muncie tranny for cruising..

      other than that.. I would probably hit the guy with camaro 2 and say 3K over(rahter than 5k) and see if he bites.. then put that money towards the install of the TKO.


      so yea..

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,192
      Country Flag: United States
      ^^^ this. If #2 is surely solid, then it's cheaper in the long run. But I'm also very leary of freshly painted cars. Make sure you look at it over real good.

      All the mechanical part can be done by yourself, or for much less $$$ to have someone do it, compared to a paint jail.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      I'll play devil's advocate here... I would look at #1. A lot of time and money has gone into upgrading the suspension, brakes and drive train. A lot more then that 5K you are talking about. That, to me, is more important then paint. #1 has decent paint but not show quality? Doesn't matter, IF it is clean and rust free, that can be fixed in the future.
      As was said above about the painted one, it had better be perfect under all that paint. No rust, no bondo. If it's not it is a waste of money as it will look worse then #1 in a short time.
      I will make a suggestion: Learn to paint. Buying the ugly duckling for "cheap" and making it look like a swan is a very satisfying experience. That is why I would look at #1. The cosmetics is easy if you can do it.
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      Me personally, #2. As much as I love a big block, I really do, I wouldn't do another for as much gas it sucks down, the 421 might be able to squeak double digits at least. Plus it's the lighter small block. How old is the nice paint? Hopefully it's been done for awhile, and isn't a recent quickie that might shrink down on you. Sure the DSE stuff is eye candy one #1, but what do control arms and coilovers cost, $2k? SFC's are cheap. Paint will set you back big time, aside from the $8k in dough, the lost time is also worth a lot as I'd be surprised at anything less than 6 months for a total redo.
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      381
      Country Flag: United States
      This is good stuff guys! I really appreciate the help. Neither of these cars are in Ohio, #1 is in Florida and #2 is in Southern Virginia. I like the thought of #1 and its components but paint jail freaks me out. Cheaper to buy them done. #2 I like and am waiting on one more pic from seller before I can commit to either. #2 has been painted for 4 years and seems like a fun car that I can bolt everything on that #1 has minus the welded subframe connectors.

      Man, I didnt know this was going to be so tough. #1 is a nice ride but there are alot small things that seem like it will add up. Some interior painted pieces are scraping off and I can see that the kick panels have been died from blue to black. Small stuff like that will drive me nuts.

      I have a TKO600 in garage that I can bolt in #2, which would be a blast compared to an auto. Then again, I like to drag race every once in a while and the auto would be better.

      Decisions!!!! I have to make my mind up fast because I will loose either one of these .

      Thanks, Erik

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Manitoba, Canada
      Posts
      106
      Country Flag: Canada
      Buy the project to paint is what I would do personally. Then I could have the exact colour I wanted, plus all the goodies already on there.
      Evan

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Atlanta GA
      Posts
      7,477
      put it this way..


      #1 how long will it take to bolt on the things you would want UCAs, LCAs, Brake kit, subframe connectors, rear 12 bolt, etc...


      #2 how long will it take to replace possible metal, bondo, prime and block, align gaps, paint, clear, cut and buff..



      I can tell you like this.. it took about a month average to put on all the parts TOTAL on one of my builds.. everything named above in #1.


      I can tell you THIS.. IT TOOK ME ALMOST 4 YEARS TO GET ONE OF MY PROJECTS WITH METAL REPLACE(not all of it) AND READY FOR PAINT.. NOT EVEN PAINTED.. JUST READY

      and that was a "reputable" in the pt community shop.. which if I could do it all again.. if I could warn a past me(being im from the future..lol) I would tell him to just roll with how it originally was..

      so yea...

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Boston MA
      Posts
      686
      Half a day of Summitt bolt ons vs a stout small block an mint paint... Seem easy to me.
      1967 #s RS

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Tennessee
      Posts
      814
      Country Flag: United States
      I would try to borrow an elcometer to check for bondo and/or excessive film on the #2 car. That's just me, but if it checks out and the color is to your liking then that would be my choice.

      All in, body/paint jail lasted 10 months for me and was costly. Far more costly than 5K.

      Kerry
      66 Chevelle - LS-Leap

      LQ9 / T56 Complete - Phase 2 in process!!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...t-LS-Heap-quot
      SC&C, Kore3, Detroit Speed, BBS, Advanced Induction, TickPerf, Currie, Moser, Holley, Hellwig, Edelbrock LS-Kit, Mast, Wilwood, BP-Automotive, StopTech, Ridetech, Hotchkis, UMI, Energy Suspension, AAW, B&B Classic's, PPG, Aeromotive, Canton, C&R, Sparco, Ididit, Spectre, Bridgestone, DakotaDigital, Alpine, RockfordFosgate

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2012
      Posts
      164
      Country Flag: United States
      If the body and paint meet your standards and the color is to your liking I'd go with #2.

      Are the suspension mods in the #1 deal something that's high on you priority list or are you just liking them because what they cost to buy and install?

      Putting the 5 speed in the 4 speed car is easier then switching out the 200r4 and I personally like the SBC 421 over the BBC.

      Sounds to me that to get #1 in the condition of #2 will cost way more time and money then adding the goodies you may want that are included in #1

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Pensacola, FL
      Posts
      1,263
      Country Flag: United States
      Knowing myself, I'd probably buy both to try to get a package deal. Put everything I wanted on the keeper & sell the other one. Not sure if this is a possibility for you. I enjoy buying & selling as much as working on & driving them. Didnt mean to stir the pot, just putting it out there..

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Birmingham, AL
      Posts
      3,356
      Country Flag: United States
      Going through a long term build and knowing what I know now, I would go with a painted car. Now if the other had things like a mini tub and quadralink that might change my mind. Those are labor intense installs.
      Stephen

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2015
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      309
      Country Flag: United States
      If youre feeling froggy...get #1 and wrap it..voila! No paint jail

      Now, before I get blasted for blaspheming...this is Biggun's car..printed rust wrap:



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      Last edited by Justin@EntropyRad; 03-06-2015 at 06:53 AM.
      Justin Novick
      Sales/Support
      Entropy Radiator / Engineered Cooling Products
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