Braided Brake Line Ends & Pad Questions for CTS-V1 to Chevelle retro

[Barrrf]

Hi, I had a really hard time with google trying to figure this out but when I go to order Braided brake hoses to retrofit Gen 1 CTS-V brakes to my Chevelle, which ends do I need?

Secondly, I was researching pads - any recommendations for street driving? I was thinking about Powerstop Z17 pads only because Ive had good luck with them on other vehicles Ive owned. I don't need super awesome track pads. And I don't want super cheap pads that are going to disintegrate.

Lastly, no one happens to have the template for the rear plate to adapt the brakes to the rear 12 bolt axle do they? I found the front template on here, remodeled it Inventor, and shot the flat pattern over to the lazer cutter and made my own. I would like to do that again if at all possible.

Thanks!

[Z06vet]

Call Tobin ant KORE3.

http://www.kore3.com/index.php

[Barrrf]

Yeah, that was my first thought. I hate bugging the guy. Honestly, his website brought me here to ask the question. I was filling out the webforms to buy the lines and didn't know what to pick. I also thought I might be nice to have this indexed in the search so other people who might need the help can find it.

[andrewb70]

Bart,

I wouldn't run the fixed CTSV calipers on the rear if you have a 12 bolt with c-clip axles. You are asking for a trouble with pad knock-back. Choose any other of solutions that use a floating caliper. I know they aren't as sexy, but you will be much happier.

Andrew

[Barrrf]

Bart,

I wouldn't run the fixed CTSV calipers on the rear if you have a 12 bolt with c-clip axles. You are asking for a trouble with pad knock-back. Choose any other of solutions that use a floating caliper. I know they aren't as sexy, but you will be much happier.

Andrew

Thanks for the tip! Youre the first person to mention this. Since Im not 100% sure what pad knock back is (I can guess solely based on the word I bet) Im off to SEARCH! Thanks again Andrew.

[Barrrf]

Would a C-Clip eliminator not solve the axial play issue?

[andrewb70]

Would a C-Clip eliminator not solve the axial play issue?

Possibly. The question is whether the brackets and calipers will work with the c-clip eliminator kit.



Andrew

[Barrrf]

Ive scoured the goole looking at pics of the eliminator kit trying to figure out what the possible problems might be - I cant seem to find any. Thoughts?

[andrewb70]

Ive scoured the goole looking at pics of the eliminator kit trying to figure out what the possible problems might be - I cant seem to find any. Thoughts?

Don't hold me to this, but a possible problem might arise when you put the caliper bracket between the bearing housing and the axle tube end. What might happen when you do that is that your axles will get pulled outboard which 1. changes your track width 2. reduces the axle spline engagement at the diff.

One way around this is to have your 12 bolt housing ends modified to use 9" ends.

Andrew

[Barrrf]

Don't hold me to this, but a possible problem might arise when you put the caliper bracket between the bearing housing and the axle tube end. What might happen when you do that is that your axles will get pulled outboard which 1. changes your track width 2. reduces the axle spline engagement at the diff.

One way around this is to have your 12 bolt housing ends modified to use 9" ends.

Andrew

I supposed I would need new axles for this 9" end conversion?

[andrewb70]

I supposed I would need new axles for this 9" end conversion?

Most likely.

Andrew

[Barrrf]

Well, I threw caution to the wind and just did it. Turns out, I have no issues with knock back. And I believe its because of the locker rear end and the way its designed. Anyways, as is everything with this car, lots of stuff needing attention.

Here is the pic of the dirty rear end - of note, the UCA bushings are not installed completely.


Skipping the clean up and tear down process, here is the rear end with new brakes lines, calipers, disc installed. I also took the liberty of hammering the bushings in the rest of the way.


So I went to bolt everything back up into place and I couldnt get the drivers side UCA to line up - I did not know this but the ears on the UCA need to have clearance for the 12 bolt housing. I think the PO didnt know this and just forced the UCA into place and combined with the bushings not being correctly installed lead to the UCAs breaking almost all the way through. I replaced with Spohn Adjustables.



Got everything put back up. Mounted the passenger wheel, and mounted the drivers wheel but it was REALLY hard to turn them, and I heard scraping. I knew somewhere in my mind that the rear rotors are slightly larger than the fronts. Well, the calipers didnt fit inside the wheel...........but just barely. So I made a fixture and took them my bro in law and had him mill down the theoretical OD of the calipers. They fit now. Its tight tho.

[chpr1972]

You will not notice knock back until you flat tow the car for a distance with turns. Or if you decide to spin the car in a circle. Or aggressively drive thru a bunch of switch backs. I foud mine one day when I used the tow dolly to pull the car. when I took it off the dolly I had no brakes. After checking out the system and found nothing wrong I pumped the brakes and got full pedal back. I then notice loss os half the pedal travel when I spun the rear of the car around in a circle to listen to my granddaughters scream!!! Yes how mean of me! lol

[Skip Fix]

A potential solution to Andrew's comment on the C clip elims moving the axle out would be to machine down the inner retention portion. I would guess they make them with drim backing plate thickness in mind so machining off the difference in caliper bracket vs drum backing plate.

Strange has a new "street" kit that uses the 3.150 taper bearings and a press on bushing to adapt to stick axle diameter. If you use weld on ends(or maybe even the kit no bushing) the axle is a little bigger to press on the 3.150 bearing.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/pr...-7735-pr.html/

This new kit mentions using a specific OD Stange axle but I believe the first ones out fit stock axles. I'll have to measure the one I have on the shelf.

[Barrrf]

You will not notice knock back until you flat tow the car for a distance with turns. Or if you decide to spin the car in a circle. Or aggressively drive thru a bunch of switch backs. I foud mine one day when I used the tow dolly to pull the car. when I took it off the dolly I had no brakes. After checking out the system and found nothing wrong I pumped the brakes and got full pedal back. I then notice loss os half the pedal travel when I spun the rear of the car around in a circle to listen to my granddaughters scream!!! Yes how mean of me! lol

Youre assuming I have done any of these things. To fair, I have towed it on a dolly and likely never will.

A potential solution to Andrew's comment on the C clip elims moving the axle out would be to machine down the inner retention portion. I would guess they make them with drim backing plate thickness in mind so machining off the difference in caliper bracket vs drum backing plate.

Strange has a new "street" kit that uses the 3.150 taper bearings and a press on bushing to adapt to stick axle diameter. If you use weld on ends(or maybe even the kit no bushing) the axle is a little bigger to press on the 3.150 bearing.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/pr...-7735-pr.html/

This new kit mentions using a specific OD Stange axle but I believe the first ones out fit stock axles. I'll have to measure the one I have on the shelf.

I shouldve just done the Ford ends but being up here in the sticks where resources are limited I wasnt confident it wouldve come out right. I dont know what the future holds for this car but I will likely just get a new rear end sometime.