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    Page 9 of 18 FirstFirst ... 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ... LastLast
    Results 161 to 180 of 348
    1. #161
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Erie, Pa
      Posts
      30
      Your progress is looking good!

      What is your heat shielding made from?

    2. #162
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks!

      It's embossed aluminum heatshield, that I bought in sheet form.
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    3. #163
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      Have a link?? I need some
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    4. #164
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    5. #165
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      So I've been working on lots of boring stuff. Tore apart the interior, cleaned everything, hit all the welded stuff with a flapwheel, then seam sealed it all, primed it, then coated it with bedliner inside. It'll get some RaamMat/Ensolite over top of key areas for sound deadening, but the bedliner does a decent job of taking the "ring" out of panels as well as sealing everything up nicely.

      I removed the pedal box and fixed one of the master cylinders that had a broken fitting in it, cleaned it all up and got it ready/reinstalled. I put in a brake switch on the rear brake master (I may add a second one on the front just for redundancy's sake) and got it labeled with a heat shrink label and put a Deutsch connector on it (everything will be either Deutsch or Metricpack connectors, mostly Deutsch). I ordered up some more CuNiFer lines to finish the last of the hardlines in the interior, and started plotting out where the lines will run and how to secure/support them all. Looks like it shouldn't be too bad and will look nice (even if you can't really see 99% of it).

      I also fabricated a spacer for my DBW throttle pedal. Next up is sorting the steering column to get the turn signal wiring in place and reterminate the plugs on the electric power steering so that I can that permanently installed.

      Hoping to get the last few pieces I need for the engine/transmission to install them early next week and get started on wiring it all up for fuel/oil/cooling/electrical and see if all this crap actually functions properly.
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    6. #166
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Engine is back in, now to start finishing hoses/wiring!

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      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    7. #167
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      Very nice, I saw you posted in one of the FB groups. Looks great
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    8. #168
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks! More progress!

      This doesn't look like much, but these are the main power feeds for the starter and starter solenoid. Getting these in place, crimped, heat shrinked, anti-abrasion wrapped and fireshield wrapped, plus adding routing and firewall bulkheads took almost 5 hours. Just a ton of work for something you generally never think about or see. All in the name of not having to do things twice, and HOPEFULLY not having it leave me stuck on the side of the road or track in the future.

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      After that was two days of working on the turbo system. Ended up redoing all of the lines because I was unhappy with the fitment in a few places. MUCH happier now. The coolant feeds, oil feeds and oil scavenge lines are all in place here; I -might- redo the oil scavenge at some point to get rid of the weird 90, but it is currently required for clearance (space is TIGHT in this area). Everything forward of the turbine housings gets covered by a 1/4" aluminum skid plate (hence the "save your ass bars" on the sides). This is the lowest point on the car, so I figured I'd rather be save than sorry. Skid plate will probably get some NACA ducts to force air at the turbo air filters at some point. :D

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      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    9. #169
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,645
      Country Flag: United States
      How do you handle heat management around the turbos? That's all very interesting to look at. 2 lbs of stuff in a 1 lb box.

    10. #170
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, I have the heatshields in some areas, then anything that I don't expect to like heat (hoses, fuel lines, battery cables, etc) are wrapped in firesleeve to protect it as well. Most of it (aside from the stuff that actually feeds the turbos) is also kept as far away as possible.

      I'm trying to keep mindful to assure that I don't have any issues once I get it on the street, but there are always fun things to learn once you get a car like this running, LOL.
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    11. #171
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Posts
      709
      Wow, nice package!

    12. #172
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      TWSS. (Sorry, I COULD NOT resist.) Carry on. LOL

      Jay

    13. #173
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm just glad someone said it before me! LOL

      I went out today to mock up my nice TIG welded stainless exhaust... and the driver side has about 1/8" of gap to the v-band that I can't clear out. I'd be more annoyed, but I figured that'd be the case because I adjusted the turbo "angle" slightly to improve other clearances. No biggie, I'll cut a little pie slice out of some pipe and fix it. I need to add the wideband bungs anyway, so the TIG was getting used regardless.

      All in the name of "as close to perfect as my fabri-cobbling skills allow", haha.
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    14. #174
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      BRAKES WORK!

      My very understanding wife sat in the car and worked the pedal for me and I bled all 4 corners. Shockingly, I didn't have any leaks (or at least none have showed up yet) and it bled pretty well between the pump/pump/hold technique and some MityVac work.

      Here's a few shots of the setup on the interior.

      Master Cylinders:

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      Brake Switch:

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      This shot is dark, but this is the clutch line and rear brake line firewall passthroughs. You can also see an aluminum plate at the top. This has a piece of foam on top of it that supports the brake lines against the pedal bracket to help minimize vibration and unsupported runs:

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      And the passenger side passthrough to the front brakes (and my battery/starter solenoid cables in progress):

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      I also managed to get the clutch bled. It was a PITA as the master I used for that was used and the PO had cut the shaft down just enough to make it not long enough to work for me. So I had to make a little screw on extend-o-bolt to sort it. Anyway, bled that via the pump 11 million times and MityVac the bleeder valve (I can't use my normal method because of clearance) and it seems to have worked very well with a very solid pedal. The only bad news is the pedal is freaking heavy, definitely heavier than my Spec Super Twin in the FC was. That said, I don't have a seat in the car, so it may not be quite so bad once it's all in place and I can get proper leverage.

      I am thinking about making a little brace for the front of the master cylinders as they do flex a tiny bit under full load and I think it'd be fairly easy to add a little brace for them, so I'll probably add that in, but beyond that, looks like that's one system off the list.

      Next I'm going to adjust the parking brake a bit to get that dialed in 100% and start on finishing up the steering linkage. I'm hoping the driveshaft is done this week; once that comes in I'll fill the transmission and diff and mark those off the list.

      Oh, and I have a big whiteboard to hang on the wall so that I can start writing tasks down that need finished before first fire, and before paint. :D
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    15. #175
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Rochester NY
      Posts
      404
      Fantastic work - wish I had a 3rd of your talent
      Don
      Grace - 67 Camaro daily driver with upgrades along the way.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Camaro-Driver

    16. #176
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks! I swear, I'm "meh" at best at most of this stuff. It's just sheer determination, mostly. LOL
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    17. #177
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Quick video update (I'll have more pictures/in depth stuff soon, just short on time at the moment):



      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAtt7GpF1jw
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.


    18. #178
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Starting wiring in the bay:

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      Labeled and loomed up:

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      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    19. #179
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      A bit more wiring progress; passenger side is almost done, just need to finish joining the separate harness sections at the mil spec connector then build the stress relief loops and terminate it at the connectors. Then do it again on the driver side, then start on the interior side of all of it.

      Good news is once I wire up everything and build a few more fuel lines, I should theoretically be able to fire it up!

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      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    20. #180
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      great attention to detail on the wiring!

      What wire sleeve tubing did you use to cover it? and the where is the anti-abrasion cover used on your main starter cable come from? this is exactly what I'm putting together at the moment

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