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    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
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      Country Flag: United States

      rear speaker mounting

      ok everyone. need some input for my 69 nova on where to mount the rear speakers. should i mount them underneath the the package tray or on top. im leaning for top mount but would like to see some pics if you guys have them.
      thanks
      Wine me Dine me 69 me....Nova that is

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
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      i vote for no rears at all. they actually hurt the sound quality more than help. If you can get a 6.5" up from and a sub, i say nix the rears. The caveat to this is that you should have them amped and you do need a subwoofer. I can go into the reasons why it's better if you're interested... but i can get a bit long winded on the subject
      Scott
      '66 Chevelle

    3. #3
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      Apr 2001
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      Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
      i vote for no rears at all. they actually hurt the sound quality more than help. If you can get a 6.5" up from and a sub, i say nix the rears. The caveat to this is that you should have them amped and you do need a subwoofer. I can go into the reasons why it's better if you're interested... but i can get a bit long winded on the subject
      +1

      Andrew
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    4. #4
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      Feb 2011
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      dallas, tx
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      i mounted them underneath. I used the grills as a spacer

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      ALABAMA
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      147
      Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
      i vote for no rears at all. they actually hurt the sound quality more than help. If you can get a 6.5" up from and a sub, i say nix the rears. The caveat to this is that you should have them amped and you do need a subwoofer. I can go into the reasons why it's better if you're interested... but i can get a bit long winded on the subject
      Please expand on this if you don't mind. 6.5" in the kicks and a sub in the trunk? I'm a bit stereo illiterate but I will try to follow along.

    6. #6
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      Sep 2013
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      Quote Originally Posted by CROMAN69Z28 View Post
      Please expand on this if you don't mind. 6.5" in the kicks and a sub in the trunk? I'm a bit stereo illiterate but I will try to follow along.
      sure no problem:

      First music is mastered using two monitors that are in front of the technician. The resulting music is delivered in a stereo format. You don't see home stereo's with rear fill unless it's altered with some Dolby or other processing, right?

      Second: when you have the same signal being produced from two separate point sources. Depending on what point they meet; and at what frequency, they will create peaks and valleys as the sound waves add to each other. This makes it more difficult to tune and nets a muddy sound) Also our ears are very sensitive to offsets in time in order to localize where the sound is coming from. When you have the same sound coming from two point sources it will degrade the ability to spatially localize where the instruments are (something the producer spent weeks on fine tuning). for a visual explanation. think about a rope tied to a pole. you can easily make nice waves. now instead of you attaching one end to a pole. have a buddy on the other end making the same waves. see how the clean wave gets muddy?

      Third: somewhere along the line we were conditioned to think we need rear speakers. Initially rears were on the rear deck and larger. They added extra spl and deeper bass... Now Every car needs to advertise sound systems with 100 speakers or we think it is cheap. The truth is, most 3 way (tweet, mid, sub) systems will blow away multi speaker oem systems. The trick now is to recondition yourself into not believing you need more speakers. I suggest driving around for 3 weeks in your current setup but fading all the way forward. After week two you will all but forget that your rears are gone and then you can start seeing how much more defined the music is.


      edit: here was something i wrote out to help someone over on Reddit It has a ton of information that maybe you can use to get more familiar with the ins and outs of car audio and also where to focus your budget:

      For a sq system that you're going to have installed there are two avenues you can go.
      active- this means that you're actively crossing splitting up the audio signals that come from the headunit or processor and feeding them to separate channels of an amplifier. You need one channel for each speaker. meaning you'll need a 4 channel amplifier for your front speakers and a mono amplifier for your sub. you benefit from this by having the ability to fine tune each speaker and also introduce a very tiny delay in each driver so the sound reaches your ears at the same time. This doesn't sound like a big deal, but our brains are highly sensitive machines that subconsciously interpret delays in sounds between our two ears into positional data. By adding a delay we 'trick' our brains into thinking we are in the center of the speakers instead of off to one side. Now remember where i mentioned that music is produced/mastered using two speakers? Well the people mastering the tracks spend a great amount of time tweaking the mix as to add those delays per instrument. the delays trick our mind into being able to spatially localize each instrument. on a great system you'll be able to close your eyes and almost 'see' where each instrument is on stage. i digress though...

      ok so the second option is waht is called 'PASSIVE'. in a passive system you have a passive crossover that takes the signal coming from the amp and splits it to two speakers (mids/tweeters). this is different then active because the splitting comes after the amplifier instead of before it. This only requires you to use a two channel amplifier for the front speakers. the downside to this is that the passive components take a bit of the dynamic range (the difference between the highs and the lows in a song) away as well as the inability to time align each speaker. in these cases it's sometimes beneficial to mount the tweeter closer to the mid in order to (better) equalize the distance ratio that the speakers are from your ears (helping imaging) but this usually lowers your soundstage a bit. Also, the money you save in only having to buy a 2 chan amp will be consumed by having to buy a compoent system (includes: mid, tweeter and passive x-over) where as active allows you to just purchase the raw speakers and not spend money on the crossover.

      as for power/amplifiers. Go with the most power you can afford for your front speakers. My last few systems were active running 150 watts rms x 4. The reason i go high on my power is to allow me to not have to push my system to it's limits to get the volume i want... but more importantly it adds something called headroom. if you look at the noise graph on an amplifier you'll see as you turn up the volume the higher it is, the more noisy the signal gets. now if you have an amp that is rated at 25 watts... you may need to max out your volume to knob in order to get it to a point where you can rock out while driving. now compare that to my system where i can achieve the same volume while only pushing my stem to 1/6th of it's potential.

      now for subs... you'll see a majority of the people on here running 1000+ watts to their subs. it's fine but for a sq system that is not needed. Running a sub/amp combo that are both rated at around 500 watts can easily keep up with my front speakers with 600 watts (remember 150 x 4). So you dont need to go big. going big isn't bad but the systems usually are very unbalanced... and that balance is what you need for sq installs. Another thing you need to know is that the box design is usually what will make or break the sq of the sub. for sq installs go with a 12 or 15" sub in a SEALED box. this is a closed box that will be a specific size based on the sub you choose. most 12" subs use a 1 cu/ft box... but this is a spec that all subs will have. the other option is to go ported. optimally they are 'tuned' to a certain frequency based on the specs of the subwoofer. and at that frequency you'll get a bump in spl (volume). these can easily be louder then a sealed box but at the expense of accuracy.

      now... based on all of that... here is what i'd go with if i were you:

      head unit - pioneer prs80. this is a great headunit at a great price (<$250). it'll have all the processing capabilities that you need. If you want to keep your stock headunit that you'll probably want to go with a jbl ms-8 or audison bit-one (possibly the rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 or another dsp unit that your installer may be familiar with). They aren't cheap so your budget just went up though

      speakers. if you go with a passive system then hat imagine's are a great deal $300 for the whole set. if you go passive then there are a ton of options. I'm going to link you to a great discussion on this. Now keep in mind. he went a slightly different route and designed his own passive system. but the speakers we discussed are good options for an active system. and to say the least, the op is very happy with his decision

      for an amp. this is where you have a bit of wiggle room. power is actually more important the the brand imho. if you can only afford a zapco amp that is only 50 watts by 4 or a soundstream (or pioneer, or hifonics, etc...) that is 150 watts by 4... i would choose the higher power, over the better quality (zapco)

      for the sub. i have only been happy with one sub in my life where i didnt want to change it out. it's tc-sounds. you can get a tc-sounds epic 12" for ~$200 and i highly suggest it. it's a great sq sub..
      cliff notes for this: get a solid head unit as that's the brains of your system. for amps, quantity is actually better then quality (within reason... boss audio with 500 wrms isn't a good buy). mids should be where you spend your most money, subs you can get a way with a lot. most subs between $150-$200 will be great.
      Scott
      '66 Chevelle

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
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      scott...thanks alot for the great info
      Wine me Dine me 69 me....Nova that is

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
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      448
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      Quote Originally Posted by dairdvl View Post
      scott...thanks alot for the great info
      you're welcome.

      one thing of note... having rear speakers isn't going to make your system sound horrible. it's just less than ideal. with that said, in my humble opinion, putting money that you would have spent on the rears into the front speakers/amp will be more beneficial (as long as you have a sub).
      Scott
      '66 Chevelle

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
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      717
      No rears unless its a sub..
      Best would be an active capable headunit and an amp for each speaker pair
      72 buick skylark
      twin-turbo fuel injected buick 350..perhaps stroked to 370 in the works!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
      Posts
      717
      Check out hybrid audio for speakers/subs
      Clarion makes a great active headunit for the money...more so then pioneer

      Best bang for your buck in the amp department is JL audio

      Don't really need a DSP if you stick with a 3way setup
      4way a DSP is best bet..can also do time alignment
      72 buick skylark
      twin-turbo fuel injected buick 350..perhaps stroked to 370 in the works!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
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      448
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nothingface5384 View Post
      Check out hybrid audio
      very good brand. unless you're going fully active then i would just get raw drivers and save the money on not having to buy the passive network. I'll be running seas w18nx mids in my chevelle (once it gets back from the shop) My last ride had the seas g18rnx/p. just an amazing driver and a great price. It'll outperform a lot of mids in prepackaged component systems.


      Quote Originally Posted by Nothingface5384 View Post
      No rears unless its a sub..
      Best would be an active capable headunit and an amp for each speaker pair
      i heard that all of the 2015 pioneer head units will be 3-way active capable.... will they have the same dsp as the prs80? not sure but it's step in the right direction
      Scott
      '66 Chevelle

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
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      717
      Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
      very good brand. unless you're going fully active then i would just get raw drivers and save the money on not having to buy the passive network. I'll be running seas w18nx mids in my chevelle (once it gets back from the shop) My last ride had the seas g18rnx/p. just an amazing driver and a great price. It'll outperform a lot of mids in prepackaged component systems.






      i heard that all of the 2015 pioneer head units will be 3-way active capable.... will they have the same dsp as the prs80? not sure but it's step in the right direction

      haven't looked into the upcomming models
      Just know the clarion cz702 is best active unit for the cash at 120 shipped
      The 80prs def has the nice auto active time lapse frequency ability
      Ive heard allot of people complain about the bluetooth noise
      Id imagine the 2015 pioneers would all still have the 24bit DAC and the burr brown DSP which is stilll the best internal DSP currently

      I wish someone would make a reasonable 4way active unit
      72 buick skylark
      twin-turbo fuel injected buick 350..perhaps stroked to 370 in the works!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
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      717
      Anyone free air a pair of 6.5 or 8s in their rear decklids?
      72 buick skylark
      twin-turbo fuel injected buick 350..perhaps stroked to 370 in the works!

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nothingface5384 View Post
      Anyone free air a pair of 6.5 or 8s in their rear decklids?
      I did, sounds pretty good at idle. Not nearly enough oomph to even be noticeable at cruise speeds.



      I have 2 Tang Band 6.5's in the rear deck powered by an Alpine MRP-F300 50 watts x4 amp. I will say that the amp is not tuned, I mounted it with the adjustment pods on the wrong side and they are buried against the passenger wheel well housing. So, may sound better with tuning. I have to get my 6'5" body in the trunk and mess with it.

      http://www.parts-express.com/tang-ba...oofer--264-832

      I may end up running an all in one 8" powered sub and mount it to the floor behind the drivers seat.

      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass






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