Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States

      68 Camaro Suspension...confused on build

      Hello,
      I have a 68 Camaro, currently a 327 4 speed numbers matching car. I want to make something a little more fun out of it, so I was thinking a 454 stroked to a 496 and a Muncie M22 instead of the Saginaw. I want to update the suspension on it, and it seems the more I research the more confused I get with so many different setups. I want to have something that will handle decent on the street, maybe do an autox from time to time just for fun. I have been looking at the Hotchkis TVS system that lowers the car 3 inches front and rear, but still maintains the leaf springs. I have a ZL1 so the 68 will just be a fun cruiser for now. I don't really know if this is a good system for that or not? I have read a ton of reviews and some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. The car needs new frame rails and torque boxes on both sides. I am also going to upgrade to 4 wheel disc, but I am getting kind of overwhelmed, and haven't even started yet. Guess I just need some advice on where to start, and if this is a pretty good kit for the money. Thanks for any help



      Travis


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      68 Camaro Suspension...confused on build

      A kit that nobody I know of has complained about is the ridetech kit. 4 link coilover rear and tubular front arms and coilovers.
      Wilwood makes decently priced brake kits, or go the C5/6 route with Kore3 brackets.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,409
      Quote Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
      Hello,
      I have a 68 Camaro, currently a 327 4 speed numbers matching car. I want to make something a little more fun out of it, so I was thinking a 454 stroked to a 496 and a Muncie M22 instead of the Saginaw. I want to update the suspension on it, and it seems the more I research the more confused I get with so many different setups. I want to have something that will handle decent on the street, maybe do an autox from time to time just for fun. I have been looking at the Hotchkis TVS system that lowers the car 3 inches front and rear, but still maintains the leaf springs. I have a ZL1 so the 68 will just be a fun cruiser for now. I don't really know if this is a good system for that or not? I have read a ton of reviews and some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. The car needs new frame rails and torque boxes on both sides. I am also going to upgrade to 4 wheel disc, but I am getting kind of overwhelmed, and haven't even started yet. Guess I just need some advice on where to start, and if this is a pretty good kit for the money. Thanks for any help

      Travis
      I don't have any suggestions on an F body chassis but I would toss out there that you can darn near buy a TKO600 for what most of the boys want for a good rebuilt M-22. I would say having a 5-speed is the first big step into making your car more fun, usable, interstate friendly and modern. I would spend money on that before I spent it anywhere else in upgrades. JMO.
      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the advice. Would the TKO600 bolt right up to the big block like the m22 would? I didn't know if the clutch setup would be the same?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
      Thanks for the advice. Would the TKO600 bolt right up to the big block like the m22 would? I didn't know if the clutch setup would be the same?
      Hurst Driveline or Silver Star will have turnkey kits.

      http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      I recommend the LGT-700 over the TKO600. It is stronger and it will bolt up to the stock GM bellhousing. Since you are talking about buying a different engine anyway, I would recommend you consider a 383 stroker crate engine rather than a big heavy 454. A big block is ok for a Pro-Street car which can't turn well anyway but it makes the nose too heavy for a Pro-Touring car. The added weight of the big block will hinder the handling performance of any PT suspension mods you might plan.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Posts
      8
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a 68 Camaro that I have installed just about all you are thinking about. I have the hotchkis suspension with the 1.5” drop. Qa1 coil overs in the front and Qa1 adjustable shocks in the back. Steroids rack and pinion steering, and ssbc disc brakes on front and back. The 327 is coming out and a 406 sbc is going in once fixed, has a bad shack. The transmission has also been changed the Muncie 4 speed to a tko600. I have been happy with all the changes. The only modification that I might change is the brakes and that’s because I changed from 15” rims to 17” rims and have room for bigger brakes. I take the car to shows and cruise nights. I have also autocross the car 6 times over the past year and having a blast.Name:  10336658_787434004607835_3065638685772316866_n.jpg
Views: 530
Size:  47.6 KB

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,415
      Country Flag: United States
      I ran a Hotchkis TVS kit minus rear sway bar but plus their Hotchkis valved Bilstein shocks until I started getting much more into track days and autocross events. I ran this set up for 10K miles, 2-3 autocross events and 1 road course track day. Its a great setup for mostly street driving with maybe an occasional autocross.

      Two things that will also help big time. 1) Fix the camber gain geometry with either Guldstrand mod, tall ball joint, or tall spindle. 2) Get a modern alignment. A great starting point can be read about here: http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen...gnment%20specs
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,505
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen View Post
      I ran a Hotchkis TVS kit minus rear sway bar but plus their Hotchkis valved Bilstein shocks until I started getting much more into track days and autocross events. I ran this set up for 10K miles, 2-3 autocross events and 1 road course track day. Its a great setup for mostly street driving with maybe an occasional autocross.

      Two things that will also help big time. 1) Fix the camber game geometry with either Guldstrand mod, tall ball joint, or tall spindle. 2) Get a modern alignment. A great starting point can be read about here: http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen...gnment%20specs
      LOL, Chad, I won't repost that picture.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,415
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Mkelcy View Post
      LOL, Chad, I won't repost that picture.
      Ha ha I don't mind if you do! We are all here to learn, plus that was a lifetime ago.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      1,748
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with both Chad-1stGen and Dale from Schwartz Performance. The TVS is a good start but only go that route if you have NO plans of upgrading in the future. If you want more out of the car with the least investment, I'd highly recommend going straight to ridetech's setup. I put a couple years worth of miles on my car with the stock suspension (mono leafs), about 3 years on it with the TVS and have had the full ridetech setup for the last year and a half. If I had it to do all over again, I never would've bought the Hotchkis parts and would've gone straight to the RideTech setup.

      For a more technical explanation on why RideTech is that much better, hit up Rodney Prouty (Rod on the board). He can tell you all the reason why RideTech produces such a dramatic improvement over the Hotchkis setup.
      Last edited by GeoffP; 10-27-2014 at 02:18 PM.
      GeoffP
      68 Camaro - LS1/T-56

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      I will check into the ride tech suspension. At this point I don't see it going any farther, but who knows.

      I was looking at an383 stroker, but always wanted a big block. Would aluminum heads and intake balance out the heavier block?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,505
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Travis104 View Post
      I will check into the ride tech suspension. At this point I don't see it going any farther, but who knows.

      I was looking at an383 stroker, but always wanted a big block. Would aluminum heads and intake balance out the heavier block?
      No.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      I ended up getting a good deal on a rebuilt 383 stroker with ceramic coated hooker headers, chrome pullies, oil pan, alt bracket, starter, rebuilt heads, roller rockers, pete Jackson gear drive and it also came with a muncie m21 Trans with new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, blow proof bell housing and hurst shifter. Got it for $1400 bucks





    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com