Experiences with Champion Radiatiors

[Bob Folkestad]

Mr. Entropy Radiator

1. The Griffin Epoxy works fine, it is furnace brazed then sealed, the tech they used was for truck intercoolers not radiators, Buddy Griffin made it work for a long time. The radiators are brazed, then epoxied. I have no skin in the game but I know the whole back story to the operation.
2. Be Cool has been a marketing company, go there they have another company make everything.
3. You are correct, Chinese radiators are generally junk... However if they are managed by smart round eyes they can produce some decent parts.

So realistically there are not too many real radiator manufactures when you get down to it. Most guys buy cores then weld on tanks... And I mean 80% of the US Radiator manufactures buy cores and weld on tanks, go tour one. Many cores are made in Mexico then shipped here. Good Cores cost under $100 and people weld on tanks and make them into $1000+ radiators...

Just a few notes, on your web site you bash the Airpax thermal switches that John Deere and Caterpillar uses, that is actually a good part, additionally most connectors on muscle cars are not sealed so I do not think a #10 stud is a big deal with a ring terminal. SPAL choose that part because it was low profile, when you added the sealed connector it really screwed up sensor placement in some applications in the aftermarket. I am they guy that picked that sensor 20 years ago...

[chpr1972]

I have a champion 66 chevelle radiator 4 core behind a 489 CI .BBC. Radiator cools good except in places like the drive thrus when they are extremely busy. When the champion fans kick on it goes up to 130 from 110 real quick. THEIR FANS SUCK! I was told that they rate their fans without a radiator? impeding the air. I just do not know if I want to go to a single or keep the duals. The radiator works fine and is more than 3 years old. Never had any trouble with it overheating when I ran with out a hood.