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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States

      Air In Brake Line

      Is it possible to have an air leak in a brake line or connection yet not leak fluid? Ive been trying to bleed my brakes for a couple weeks and I keep getting lots of bubbles up in the master when you release the pedal. Ive bench bleed the master several times (no air at all, even after I get all the bubbles), Ive replaced the master, Ive replaced the rear block on top of the rear axle, Ive replace the rear lines on the axle, yet I cant get the rear to bleed.

      This all started when I replaced the rear steel lines with SS that I flared myself and tried to vac bleed. When I kept getting air in MC I replaced with copper/nickel allow thinking the flare was the issue. (I also flare that with eastwood bench flare tool) To be on the safe side I also replace the rear block on the rear end. Only thing I haven't replaced are the rear flex line, which aren't that old but I guess the SS could have crushed the male nipple like it kind of did the brass block on the rear end. I also reused the crush washers on the banjo fitting on the caliper, maybe bad idea. I desperately want to go to a car show on Sat and run Auto X Sun. Any thoughts?

      BTW Fronts are fine. Running Wilwood master, Wilwood D154 rear, Baer track 4 front

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      East coast.
      Posts
      169
      Country Flag: United States
      are you using the Speed bleeders? i've heard horror stories with those.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States

      Air In Brake Line

      No, the stock bleeder on caliper

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      East coast.
      Posts
      169
      Country Flag: United States
      old trick we would do in the motorsports world is tap the caliper with a rubber mallet. you would be surprised how many bubbles would hold on to inside of the calipers. might be the same for your distribution blocks. Give it a try, and i would go to the old fashion way of bleeding them.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States

      Air In Brake Line

      Yes I taped on the caliper. Baer actually says that in there bleeding instructions.

      Anyone know of a off the shelf flex line with 10mm banjo and 3/16 IF about 13-16 long. As big as STL is there is a shortage of performance shops. So I may try a local parts house like advanced

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States

      Air In Brake Line

      I'm still banging my f-ing head against the wall wall here. I replace the rear flex lines and it doesn't seem to have helped. Waiting for a helper to arrive now to confirm my fears. I called Wilwood again today and they didn't have much advice for me.

      I can't understand why I'm getting so much air back in the master when I release the pedal, yet I'm not dripping even a drop of fluid. Pull the MC and bench bleed, zero bubble from the first stroke.

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States

      Air In Brake Line

      The mods are free to move this to disc brake section. In the 25 years I've owned this car this has got to be the most disgusted I've ever been with it. It's brake bleeding for Christ sakes yet I can't get it done.

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      Some folks say misery loves company. Not sure about that. I'm having the same problem with a completely new system also. Master has been changed and all lines checked for leaks - finding none, but still get air bubbles. Haven't heard about tapping the calipers but will try that next. If I learn anything I'll sure post it up for you. In the mean time I hope you solve the problem and if you do, sure would appreciate a post. Good luck

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States
      Im pretty sure I popped my proportioning valve trying to vac bleed and thats why I was never able to bleed it. Its was a modified disc/drum unit so I bought a disc/disc unit. It looked like it was in the popped position when I pulled and it was also reading closed with a meter. That might also make sense why when I released the brake pedal Id get bubbles back in the MC as the PV wasn't allowing that fluid to move freely to the rear.

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      ocala fl
      Posts
      302
      Country Flag: United States
      I spent a lot of time trying to bleed the rear of a 77 Lemans. I put the rear higher in the air than the master cylinder as the last resort and that didnt work. An older mechanic said open the bleeders and I did and he pumped the brakes a couple of times with the bleeders open and then said to bleed the brakes and IT WORKED. I had brake fluid every where but thats what brake clean is for I was informed

    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      did you get it?

      I don't even bother with the factory combo valves now. I just run a tee to the fronts and an adjustible to the rears.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,699
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah what Vince said, dump prop valves and go simple as basic adjustable prop valve tied into rear line out of master cylinder. Very basic mod and keeps stupid/mistake from factoring into multiple head banging sessions.
      Modding ANYTHING then having issues means go back and recheck it. FYI.
      Oh and a a quick way to eliminate parts are to start blocking off sections starting at master cylinder.
      Just the other day had a Scion come in with mushy ,crap pedal. Pulled wheels for inspection and had rusted rotors in rear and tada, used brake line clamps and tada full hard pedal. Wound up replacing rear pads, hardware, rotors and 1 caliper as it was rusted to slide pin.
      Lee Abel
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    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States
      I just got a new disc/disc combo valve today from CPP. Going to install it when I get home from work. I know I could use a tee to the fronts and an adjustable to the rears or just bought the Wilwood setup, but I have factory style SS inline lines. Meaning I would have to alter the lines or add pieces to make ether of those two options work. I didn't want to do that because SS is so hard to flare and I like a clean look. If I redo the lines with copper/nickel allow at some point I will go that route. Wilwood has said I should really have 3/16 running all the way back for 4 wheel disc vs the 1/4 I have for the original drums.


      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO






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