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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States

      Help with LS harmonic balancer install with motor in car

      LS1 with a 4L60E currently installed in my '72 C20 Suburban....had to change and oil pump....what is the best way to keep the motor from turning while reinstalling the harmonic balancer with the motor still in the truck?

      Thanks!

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Location
      Carson City, NV
      Posts
      861
      Country Flag: United States
      you could use a "TDC stop tool"... local auto zone or auto store that rents tools should have one.. simply pull a plug out and install the TDC stop tool in the plug hole and roll the motor over by hand till is hits the tool and it will stop the motor from turning over.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      perfect, thanks! I had no idea such a magical device existed....or at least that it worked in that fashion

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: United States
      I sell a flywheel holder for this. Bolts in the starter location. A piston stop is going to mark up the piston and I would not do it due to the angle it will sit at.

      I can get one in the mail first thing tomorrow. pm me if I can help

      Tim
      86 Mustang
      454 LS3 Mast 4500 intake FTI cam Holley EFI Drag radials and pump gas 9.24 143.73

      79 Z28 Bonspeed GT-B DSE front and rear Z51 Brakes 5.3 Holley EFI Vintage Air

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: United States
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      86 Mustang
      454 LS3 Mast 4500 intake FTI cam Holley EFI Drag radials and pump gas 9.24 143.73

      79 Z28 Bonspeed GT-B DSE front and rear Z51 Brakes 5.3 Holley EFI Vintage Air

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      The holder is the way to do it. I also don't like the angle the spark plug stop would put on the threads with the super high torque of the crank bolt, like 200 ft-lbs or something stupid like that. I just used a really really big impact and rammed it home. This was after I got fed up and attempted to do it by hand with a pipe and breaker bar, and slipped and put a nasty gouge into the back of my hand requiring a trip to Urgent Care. This was 4 years, and 40k miles ago and it's still good.
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Pensacola, FL
      Posts
      1,263
      Country Flag: United States
      How are you installing the balancer? There is a tool made to install it, with a thrust bearing, threaded rod with hex head on the end, and a jam nut. This is the recommended way to install it. Thread the rod into the crank, run the jam nut up to the balancer, and use 2 wrenches to press it on. Motor wont turn and it safely presses the balancer on the shaft. Do not use the balancer bolt to draw it on to the crank. It could damage the threads. I put a thin film of grease on the shaft & balancer as well.
      Scott

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      I have the tool of which you speak...purchased from Summit Racing when I originally assembled the motor.....I may have been using it improperly, but the motor still wanted to rotate as tightened the jam nut while holding the hex head on the end of the threaded rod steady.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      Even after the pulley is on you're still going to have to torque the balls out of the bolt holding it on. With the motor in the car the locking thing above would be the way to go. If you can weld it looks like it'd take about 3 minutes and $0.50 to make one.
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      yea, I ended up buying one from Tim that posted earlier in the thread....living in a condo, there's no 220 power, and the HOA doesn't take kindly to propane grills, let alone tanks of welding gas. I average about 1 complaint a month for "excessive automotive maintenance"....whatever the hell that is......

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: United States
      There is a little more too one than you think. Funny angles to get it to line up the bolts are .75 each. Last thing you want to find out your weld failed when pulling 250.
      I have built a bunch and have had not issues with breakage.

      Mine a tig welded painted, 8.8 bolts, the tubing is cut on a lathe so it is consistent and square. Each one is test fitted to a engine to make sure it fits.

      Thanks

      Tim

      86 Mustang
      454 LS3 Mast 4500 intake FTI cam Holley EFI Drag radials and pump gas 9.24 143.73

      79 Z28 Bonspeed GT-B DSE front and rear Z51 Brakes 5.3 Holley EFI Vintage Air






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