Head recommendations mild BBC

[74PanteraGTS]

I'm looking to build a pump gas (think 87 Octane) Big Block Chevy to go in my Chevelle. I'd like north of 450hp and 500lb ft of torque. This car will redline below 6000rpm. I want something that is dead solid reliable, will never detonate even if I am in the desert pulling a trailer and it is 120 degrees out. It has to be docile enough that my gf can drive it in the rain if she needs to. The block is already 30 over and I may consider a stroker crank. I have seen the magazine builds using the Pro Comp cheap aluminum heads, and I am curious if anyone has experience with them? Cost is an issue, I cannot afford to spend more than 4 grand on this engine total.

I'm thinking 9.5 or less compression if I go aluminum, 8.7 or less if I go with the old oval port iron heads. This will be in an automatic car (TH400) with a stock converter. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Yelcamino]

AFR 265 or 290

[MonzaRacer]

OK so for a nice hard pulling 454, try, 8.5 to 1 iron headed(781s seem to be the go too cast iron head, 2.19/1.88 valves) dual plane intake, 780-800cfmcarb, I would think 2 in or 2 1/8 long tube headers, well sealed.
No racing or high rpms use Hyperutectic pistons in flat top or near flat top design, Cam quest shows 11-204-3 Dual Energy making 445hp@5000 528lbft at 2500. I would use TCI Saturday Nite Special converter and say 3.23 to 3.55 gears. should pull stumps, get great mileage and if your adept at dialing in carbs some phenomenal mileage and reliability.
Another: Cam 11-231-3 X-treme 4x4 aluminum heads, 9.5 to 1 shows as 435hp@5000 572lbft@2500.

Both iterations are just simple setups. No stroking or fancy stuff much past the heads and headers.
Heck if you have Q-jet experience, learn how to set adjustable metering rods and get a Innovate Wide band and dial it in at cruise. Figure you should be able to tune it at cruise to nearly 15 to 1 AFR, BUT under load (towing you would need to be little richer) At WOT tune for NA ranges 11 to 1 to 12 to 1 but go by plug color or tune on dyno.

Now MY TAKE ON RELIABLE AND UNBEATABLE SET UP.
454 , BLUEPRINTED(hone w/torque plate, squared, use some Eagle rods, and decent forged flat tops.
Procomp heads work well, buddy has several sets,no issues EXCEPT you really need to check rocker arm placement on valve tips, we have had to adjust push rod length a little, but then he was using a Mutha-Thumpr cam too.
AFR heads are my general GO TO brand as I have NEVER been failed by their work, EVER.
9.5 to 1 compression is plenty doable on alu heads but even if using iron heads its workable with good cooling system.
Dont go big but decide on cam selection and ASK them, they KNOW their heads better than anyone.
Now me I want a decent sound as well as good power so cam selection is more critical:
Xtreme Energy cams are more top end power but peak power is greater
11-250-3 makes 499hp@6000 11-651-47 508@4000
Ovaltrack cam:
11-314-4 makes 493.5hp@5500 and 520lbft@4000

Now ignition, stick with solid HEI, good Taylor spiral core wires, OR a OEM style set of NAPA Belden (read lifetime warranty) wires. They have sets with awesome boots that hold up well on heavy truck models, but any good brand name spiral core will service.

Cooling: Team it up with a good 2 row or 3 row wide tube all aluminum radiator, decent higher flow waterpump
Evanscooling.com I like the Evans NPG+, personally, they have zero water base and never corrode anything, -40F freeze/375F boil AT ZERO pressure.
This means you can run a 2-7 lb cap, less stress on cooling system hoses and seals and still have OVER 400F boiling point. No nucleate boiling(the little bubbles you see in bottom of pan of boiling water, none of that anywhere in engine), and you can keep thermostat and fan settings HIGHER for more power and efficiency.
see everyone uses 160 thermostats to get "jump" on cooling. With Evans coolant you can run 195F Thermostat. One benefit is that when its 120 degrees outside you have more heat conduction head room IF you run 160 coolant temp and its 120 out you only have 40deg rejection window.
Run the higher T stat, tune it right and set an electric fan turn on at about 225 off at 200. You can use a engine driven fan for back up but I would still have an electric fan. For splitting difference run 180 tstat.
If your towing and driving you could run good synthetic oil and keep it changed. I have used anywhere from 15w50 Mobil to 5W40 Shell Rotella T synthetic(I have guys turning 9000rpm no issue on this stuff, my truck has same in it).

Hope this helps, probably too much info but oh well gives me chance too dream on my future setups.
Oh and I still love the TCI converter and have ran it with as big a cam as my Chet Herbert B6J (.561L/292dur/110CL roller) with no issues, and my Monte had one with LT4 HOT roller and Q-jet! and ran awesome. So dont knock it.
Good Luck

[regal454]

No need for aftermarket heads if your goal is 450HP/500ftlbs. Any decent engine builder should be able to build that in his sleep! Source a good set of pre 1975 oval ports with 2.19/1.88 valves.

[analyte]

No need for a 2in + header on a low compression motor that will never see north of 6k either. You should stick with 1 3/4in max if you're not using manifolds.

No reason to spend the money on big valves either if using stock iron heads in a non-race engine. The 781s or 041s that are similar will flow all you need with the stock valves.

Kerry

[74PanteraGTS]

Finally got my block looked at and I will need a new rotating assembly. Soooooo, might as well go with a stroker 496 kit. My block will need one cylinder sleeved but otherwise appears salvageable.

Any thoughts on the peanut port heads with a stroker kit? A buddy of mine has a brand new set of those heads that a customer ordered and never went through with the project. He wants 500 bucks and the heads are complete, ready to bolt on.

Alternatively, since my car came with the 290 heads, I'm thinking that I may find a set of those that are date coded and go more towards an original appearance. Any thoughts on these heads? Still looking for reliability and enough power to be fun to drive, but docile enough that my gf can drive it in the rain with our baby in the back.

Thanks in advance guys.

Terry

[TheParker]

Peanut port heads are going to need some work to support 500hp.

[uxojerry]

For the money, look to Mark Jones at Vortecpro performance. You can build an engine for his prices, and he powers many vintage Chevelles.