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    Results 201 to 220 of 534
    1. #201
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      Rochester NY
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      Great build! Great thread!

      Devin
      1995 Nissan Hardbody
      SCCA #61 FSP


    2. #202
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Quote Originally Posted by Badbowtie383x View Post
      I love the fact that your out there racing it and you didn't get the crazy state of the art frame and upgraded stuff right off the bat (not anything wrong with that) and just building it as you have time and/or money but just doing it with what you have. Its inspiring.
      Thanks. Don't get me wrong, I want the state-of-the-art chassis, but that is not in the financial cards right now. This thing is shockingly simple at this point. I do have a lot in the engine, to put up with the all-day track thing and drive it home (Usually 1.5 hours). I don't have space for a trailer or a hauler, nor do I want it. This thing is designed to be self-contained.

      I'm also leary of the crazy chassis stuff, because there is so much jewelry out there. Fancy but low on substance. It's easy to fall into the trap of building something so nice, you are afraid of damage because they get caught up in the build and make something that is so far beyond usable, thus pro-fairgrounds is alive and kicking again. Each to their own, and if that's your thing, no problem - but I build my stuff to get used, either on the track or going to Home Depot. My chassis design (it's partially done) is going to be tough as nails and be able to take on apexes and pot-holes.

      I know too many who wait and wait for the right vehicle, or parts or whatever and don't race. My thinking is I can practice, figure out the weak points and build the truck to suit my driving style and needs. And while I do have to put up with "hay bail" jokes every track day - by the end of the day the interest in the truck is always high. Actually, the guy with the 944 Race car asked me to trade at the end of the day at Mosport AND the Viper was driven by one of the engineers who designed it - he came by and talked too, that was a cool chat.


      The last picture says it all. That is what a Pro Touring truck should be all about!
      Thanks, I totally forgot I have a crappy cell phone video this photo - it's on the front straight. Coming out of turn 10 and hauling down this straight was fun. FUN. This is earlier in the day, so we were not pushing yet. My instructor was taking his daughter for a ride. But it does sound nice IMHO. FYI - 3" Flowmaster Delta 50s x2 with Vibrant GESI cats x2

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQWdnF0t2f8


      Quote Originally Posted by AutoX_D21Hardbody View Post
      Great build! Great thread!
      Thanks. I like to build, drive and I'm a creative guy by trade, the truck is a a fun project for me on many levels. A cross between my interests and professional life. I'm not in the automotive side much, other than I do work for MINI on occasion. Here is a fun piece I did for them a few years ago. That's me getting out of that car at the end, we did not have the $ for a stunt driver, so I did it.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhM2ycWW8po

    3. #203
      Join Date
      Dec 2014
      Location
      Sacramento,CA
      Posts
      34
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bovey View Post
      On shocks, Ron Sutton put his magic recipe in a set of Ride Tech HQ single adjustable shocks for me and they are great, not to mention wonderful bang for the buck. On the bump stops: Notch the rear frame rails - that is a must. If you want it to handle, you need to drop it a lot to get the CG in a better place. Most racing bodies have a max height (around 63") you also need to get under.
      Thanks, I was trying to avoid C-notching, but I don't think it is doable. I will be looking at a new wheel and tire package....someday. I am currently working on rebuilding my daily driver. I fell asleep behind the wheel and crashed it... so my 68 is my current dd. As soon as I am done rebuilding, I will be back on the project.
      Welding is a lot like sex, you don't have to be great with the rod as long as you thoroughly prep the surface and your good at grinding

      My build : 68 C10 Short Bed Conversion

    4. #204
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      For any of the Canadian followers, pick-up today's Saturday Star, it's available nationwide. I was out for brunch and took a timeout to read the Wheels section, and to my surprise the article included myself and the truck. Megaspeed Season 2 starts on June 25th. The Targa Newfoundland is Episode 3, according to this article. I'm still in disbelief I'm going to be on tv. So neat.

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    5. #205
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Where does a guy start. My rear brakes and I have had a sorted past, in fairness some of this past has been a part of the learning curve, most of the time learning the hard way. First pad knock back, then cracked rotors, and now this oddity.

      I was volunteer driving instructing track newbies at one of my favourite tracks, DDT at Mosport. When we instruct, we get to hit the track for sessions as thanks. The truck worked great, but there was this odd noise, a slight rubbing vibrating noise. Sounded like the parking brake hanging up. Nothing serious, brakes felt good, no biggie. But I know better, any time that noise come from the rear of my truck and sounds like the parking brake... it. is. not.

      Got home, no problem and took the wheels off. This is what I found. Somehow the bottom calliper bolt on both sides has mysteriously "made out" with the rotors on both sides. Not the top, just the bottom. (I have just balance the bolt in the rut for the photo.)

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      My cooling ducts don't like being a third wheel, so they got in on the action. There was loads of clearance here, or there was when I built all of this.
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      At this point, I'd like to add this brake set-up has been on my truck for 3 seasons now. The only thing that has changed in the rear axels, but even they have been in their for 3 major events without issue.

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      Everything is straight, everything looks good. This is the calliper mounting point.
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      The bolts stick through the backing plate, but they always have and this is how they come from Wilwood. Again, these have been like this for 3 seasons.

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      Top calliper bolt on the left, bottom calliper bolt on the right. Clearly something is a miss.
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      I have to guesses:
      A) Too much axel end-play. Brakes feel fine, I'd assume if there was that much movement, I'd notice the pad knock back.

      B) The axels are flexing? Why only the bottom bolts, everything is square. The ground off part of the bolt is on an angle, so maybe?

      I so regret not going to a floater sooner, I've spent way to much $ on this 12 bolt... It can all be fixed, I have back-up parts ready to go. I'm going to shorten the bolts, clearance everything (again) and put everything back together and make sure no further damage is done before tossing on new rotors.

      If anyone has any ideas, or Wilwood if you happen to have an opinion - that would be amazing.

    6. #206
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      On a happier note. Discovery channel released a "making of" video moments ago. Check it out!

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDoVAQGIDhU

    7. #207
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      Southern Ontario
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: Canada
      How are things looking for the Sunday car show at Toyota plant in Woodstock 11-2 ? I am guessing from word of mouth that we will have a good turn out if the weather holds. I will have my 56 F100 but unfortunately, it will be on a trailer leaking some kind of fluid. Hope to see you there.

    8. #208
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Quote Originally Posted by Peter Mc Mahon View Post
      How are things looking for the Sunday car show at Toyota plant in Woodstock 11-2 ? I am guessing from word of mouth that we will have a good turn out if the weather holds. I will have my 56 F100 but unfortunately, it will be on a trailer leaking some kind of fluid. Hope to see you there.
      Hey Peter, the brakes are back together. The wheels are on, even the front ones. For some reason, the C10 rotor castings seem to have changed this year and my wheels did not fit them. Nothing a date night with a 4 1/2" angle grinder can't fix. Just a slow process (keeping the heat down) of cutting back the front of the hub around the dust cap so it'll fit through the wheel opening.

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      Good news is the wheels fit again.

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      I just need to figure out how to get my son's child seat to fit between the containment seats...

      But now. Sleep.
      Last edited by bovey; 06-11-2015 at 11:49 PM. Reason: adjusting sloppy writing.

    9. #209
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      Southern Ontario
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: Canada
      Good stuff! I just resolved my nagging brake issue where my rears [drums, I know, I know] would not work worth a damn. I put the shoes on backwards,,,,ouch.

    10. #210
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      El Segundo, CA
      Posts
      268
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bovey View Post
      Hey Peter, the brakes are back together. The wheels are on, even the front ones. For some reason, the C10 rotor castings seem to have changed this year and my wheels did not fit them. Nothing a date night with a 4 1/2" angle grinder can't fix. Just a slow process (keeping the heat down) of cutting back the front of the hub around the dust cap so it'll fit through the wheel opening.
      Did you ever figure out that issue with the end of the bolt rubbing the rotor? I have been pondering that and the only logical thing I can think of is that some piece of debris got stuck between the rotor and the bolt. Though that does not quite explain the wear on the tip of the bolt. Gustave

    11. #211
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      [/QUOTE]
      Did you ever figure out that issue with the end of the bolt rubbing the rotor? I have been pondering that and the only logical thing I can think of is that some piece of debris got stuck between the rotor and the bolt. Though that does not quite explain the wear on the tip of the bolt. Gustave[/QUOTE]

      Nope. Everything has loads of space and now, even more as I trimmed the bolts. Everything fits nice, is true, etc. I just put the damaged rotors back on as they will be fine for street driving. The track I was on was very technical and my bet is still on flexing/distortion.

      I have video of the wheels flexing during the Targa, so I can only assume other parts, like the axels do it too.

      Working hard to have the $ for a floater - this 12 bolt needs to go asap.

    12. #212
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,081
      Country Flag: United States
      Mr.bovey,where did you buy the orange ducting for your brakes at?
      Thank you.
      Phil
      72 chevelle.

    13. #213
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Quote Originally Posted by chevelletiger View Post
      Mr.bovey,where did you buy the orange ducting for your brakes at?
      Thank you. Phil
      Hey Phil,

      That orange tubing should be available at any place you buy stock car parts. I bought mine a Grisdale Racing, but that is in Canada. This stuff is made by Allstar Performance, it comes in three colours, black, grey and orange. Each colour handles a different heat load. Orange being the highest and most expensive. You can get a 10' roll for 100-150 bucks. Just google "Allstar brake duct cooling hose". Works great, wears great. But you need to cut it right or it will fray.

    14. #214
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Posts
      16
      Country Flag: United States
      Bovey what's the rear brake rotors off of?

    15. #215
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Quote Originally Posted by Badbowtie383x View Post
      Bovey what's the rear brake rotors off of?
      It's a Willwood kit, the 12.19 version. If you're going to beat on your truck DO NOT get the drilled rotors. For street, anything works. Here read this, it has part #s solves to pad knockknack - the whole wham-bam-thank-you-ma'am. Any questions, just ask.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-GM?highlight=

      In other news, the truck is clean. CLEAN. It's never clean. Too bad a simple wash doesn't remove stone chips and scratches.

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      Hey Peter - see you tomorrow! We should be at the Toyota Plant in Woodstock by 11.

    16. #216
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Posts
      16
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks a ton Bovey.

    17. #217
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Posts
      16
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks a ton Bovey.

    18. #218
      Join Date
      Dec 2014
      Location
      Sacramento,CA
      Posts
      34
      Country Flag: United States
      Bovey, besides the roll cage do you have any other frame mods, (x-braces etc?) and how much stiffer did the roll cage make the truck? I am considering a roll cage, but not if I will be doing a bunch of frame mods, I was considering building a semi-bolt in roll cage so it could be removeable, but the only difference is that I want to keep the rear section seperate from inside the cab, I didn't want to put holes through the rear of the cab. Your thoughts?
      Welding is a lot like sex, you don't have to be great with the rod as long as you thoroughly prep the surface and your good at grinding

      My build : 68 C10 Short Bed Conversion

    19. #219
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Happy Father's Day to everyone here at pro-touring.com and beyond. Hope you are getting grease under your fingernails with you dad this week-end. I sure was.

      This photo is from 1998 when the 307 came out and the 350 was going in.

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    20. #220
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      oshawa ontario
      Posts
      1,607
      Country Flag: Canada
      Are you going to the Ontario 1500?
      Nascar 69 Chevelle project, 1999 Hutch Pagan Nascar chassis, 69 Chevelle body,700hp, Penske's, slicks, roadrace track day https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...le-Cup-project
      89 Iroc 406 Fitech 5 spd
      01 chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1 Allison
      31 Scarab 2 x 454

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