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    Results 61 to 80 of 110

    Thread: AutoBahn F-100

    1. #61
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Minneapolis, MN
      Posts
      195
      Country Flag: United States
      Residual pressure valves go between your master cylinder and brake calipers, before you split for the sides. So one valve for front, one for rear. This image from Speedwaymotors.com should help explain what I'm trying to say.

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    2. #62
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Thank you. Makes sense, but means I have to modify the already completed brake lines to get these two into the system. The Big 10 chassis comes with all hard lines installed. Wonder why the valves are not included. May be Rob will enlighten us here.

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Minneapolis, MN
      Posts
      195
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm not sure how the hardline is set up, but I'd guess there is a connection running to the front and one to rear. Maybe two of each, depending on the planned proportioning valve. I think at a minimum, the residual pressure valves install at the outlet of the master cylinder. Either between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve, or maybe between the proportioning valve and the hardline.

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      now In Dandridge, Tn.
      Posts
      1,301
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes Kai, everything is already plumbed. I'll post up some picts for you.

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      now In Dandridge, Tn.
      Posts
      1,301
      Country Flag: United States
      OK this is from a chassis that we shipped Friday. From the center of the chassis, under the 'X' member ledge, the valving mounts to the X rail in pre-cut holes. For the front brakes there is a bulkhead and nut, then a 1/8" pipe nipple (hex), then the 2 lb. RCV. the last fitting is an adapter 1/8" NPT to #3AN. For the rear Brakes, the adjustable proportioning valve bolts to the X rail, then a 1/8" pipe nipple attaches the 2 lb. RCV, then a 1/8" NPT to 3/16" IF. adapter connects to the output line. Following the rear line back, it passes through the X rail at its termination point at the rear brake junction block. The block mounts to the 'Center' side of the X rail - the holes are pre cut. From this point the rear flex lines travel to the rear brakes through the trailing arms. - Note that there is a bleed point on the block.
      Attached Images Attached Images        

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      now In Dandridge, Tn.
      Posts
      1,301
      Country Flag: United States
      From the top you can see how the front bulkhead passes through the X rail and to the front brakes. With the booster and master installed, the connection is made with #3 Teflon AN line. - Short 14" hose to the front, longer 16" for the rear.

      Hope this helps.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      wow looks awesome so far!!
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Spoke with Rob a few days ago. My chassis is plumbed differently as I will be using a Wilwood pedal box with swinging pedals mounted to the fire wall. Therefore I will not need a proportioning valve and I do not really need the residual pressure valves either. However, since I have the Rob suggested to mount them right onto the master cylinder outlets. The reason for needing these is when the master cylinder is mounted lower than the brake calipers. My master cylinders are way higher.

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      My T56 Magnum took a little tour to the Street Magazine car show in Hannover (1.500 cars and 600 bikes) this past weekend. Matt and Gray from American Powertrain came over the big pond for that. Check out the rusty stand I built for the tranny using a Chrysler rim.

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    10. #70
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome build. The frame looks killer. I can't wait to seethe body on it.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Things are slow right now. Waiting for parts. Bought a set of S10 steel wheels with tires for about $135. My OZ Racing wheels will just be manufactured after the summer break at OZ and I need to move the chassis around. I was very much surprised that these 15 inters actually clear the 12.88" rotors with the calipers mounted. It is very tight with about 1mm clearance. Good enough.

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    12. #72
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Started to make a very simple exhaust using two Flowmaster 44s. Bought 2 1/2 inch exhaust tubing, but this stuff is so bad that it did not survive bending in a professional bending machine. Had to weld my 67 degree bends using pieces from a 180 degree bend. In order to get the truck running I will exit above the running boards right behind the cab. Will make a full exhaust to the rear later and then use cut outs to exit again were my exhaust ends now.

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    13. #73
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      The chassis is pretty much done. Just need to torque a couple of nuts and bolts.

      Sorry for another side way photo.



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      I need a couple of torque settings for the No Limit Wide Ride IFS and the rear suspension of the Big10 chassis. So in case Rob is listening, here's what I need:

      1. upper front control arm to chassis
      2. lower front control arm to chassis
      3. upper front coil over mount
      4. steering rack to chassis
      5. panhard bar to chassis and to the rear end mount
      6. rear coil over mount, both ends

      All standard nuts and bolts are torqued in accordance with the relevant torque settings that you find all over the web.

      The truck is still in one piece and I will drive it one more time to a cruise night in a couple of days. The very next day the swap will start. Can't wait.

      Kai


    14. #74
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Started to take the truck apart. Also got my new rims and tires today.

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    15. #75
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      41
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good! It will look pretty awesome on the new frame!

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Could not wait. Had to mount at least one side to see if they fit. I did make my own tool to measure, but things can go wrong because you overlooked something. I did not and they fit. May need some custom spacers later to fit them perfectly, but this is a very good start I think. Quite happy now.

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      ... and yes, the front wheels touch the sway bar. Need to find a solution for that.

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      41
      Country Flag: United States
      No limit offers an upgraded splined bar for the 67-72 front bar that may allow the arms to be closer to the frame. I got one with mine, but I haven't put it on yet, so I am not sure where the position of the arms is. I will see if I can pull it out and look at if for you.

      Wheels look great also!

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      41
      Country Flag: United States
      So I looked at the sway bar that I got from No Limit tonight. The width was roughly 34" from outsides edges of the arms.


      Here is a photo of how it looks to give you a better idea of the extra clearance. With the shape and bends in the arms, I will have to mount this bar towards the top of the frame to get the angles lined up for the links to the upper control arms. If nothing else, hopefully this will give you some ideas. Good luck!


    19. #79
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Location
      Hanau, Germany
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: Germany
      Thanx. That looks interesting. Wonder how much more clearance this will give. Also wonder why the bar could not be even shorter. I.e. barely as wide as the frame width plus the spline for the arms. 10" wheels in front is freakin wide. But the more the better, right ? Will talk with Rob when they have settled in their new location in TN.

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Jul 2010
      Location
      OREGON
      Posts
      365
      Country Flag: United States
      Good looking effie...

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