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    Results 81 to 95 of 95
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by DJW32 View Post
      What kind of seats are you guys running in red dawn?
      They are Scat Pro Cars but the tops have been modified(shortened).
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    2. #82
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Socal, Ca
      Posts
      913
      The sportsman pro?

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      475
      I am pretty sure they are the same ones I am running. They are the Pro Sports 1790 fixed back. Possibly could be the Xtreme 1700s though. Cant really find a good picture.
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bugzilla View Post
      I am pretty sure they are the same ones I am running. They are the Pro Sports 1790 fixed back. Possibly could be the Xtreme 1700s though. Cant really find a good picture.
      I believe they are the Extremes because the sides aren't very tall like the Pro Sports.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      It's been a while since an update. We've been making small changes to the car trying to maximize performance. After a recent dyno session we realized the airbox we built was heat soaking real bad. So we set out to redesign it. We also knew the air filter we had used was too small so we figured both needed to be upgraded. We made a call over to our buddy Mike at K&N/Spectre for some mock up parts. He just happened to have a C6Z air filter for us to mess around with.

      The filter fit perfectly down low on our front clip crossmember. The new air box will be fed by the same fresh air ducts as before but now the box won't be in direct airflow behind the radiator.



      We also picked up a Nick Williams 102mm throttle body to better match that MSD intake manfiold.



      We keep having this same issue with the shifter boot/seal. This one lasted about 300 miles. We're changing shifters this time around. Silver Sport Transmission to the rescue.



      We also made the switch to BFG's recently. We've been running 315's all the way around on 18x11 American Racing wheels. We ordered another set of rear wheels from American Racing only 18x12's this time. So now we'll have 315's up front and 335's out back for LSfest.



      We finally got to watch RedDawn get driven at a high level with the help of Chad 'Norris' Ryker. https://totalcostinvolved.com/chad-r...stest-lap-day/
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Wicked car, great video. But the mic on a GoPro sounds like trash. :(

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      I’d love to see some details on your airbox set up. Not sure what you mean by "heat soaking"... but here are my thoughts on that subject...

      I’m running a Gen 1 SBC with a Miniram intake using GM TPI style electronics and have done a tremendous amount of experimentation on relocated MAT sensor and cold air tube, with really good results.

      I relocated the battery to the trunk and then cut a 4” hole into the sheet metal where the battery used to reside. I then routed a 4” composite air tube to that hole and mounted an air filter directly under it. I then added a bunch of heat shielding (sheet metal pieces) around the air filter to further isolate it from engine compartment.

      I also then relocated the MAT sensor to directly on the snout of the air filter (it’s a K&N conical filter). Some may argue that’s not the true air temp at the inlet to the throttle body, but I’m not sure I agree. With a composite air tube, the air doesn’t have enough time to pick up heat from the engine compartment particularly when the composite material can’t conduct heat into the air stream quickly enough. So by having the MAT sensor closer to the throttle body, I’d argue you’re actually artificially heat soaking the sensor via hot air from outside the tube.

      Any rate, all of this testing and redesign had the effect of limiting the air temperature (as read by the ECM) to essentially never go above ~15°C over ambient (which only occurs in stop and go traffic or sitting at a fast food drive-thru or stuff like that). Compare that to before my mods when the air temp would easily get to 50-75° over ambient. When driving at speed, it’s reading dead-on at ambient temperature… ambient as reported by the digital read-out on my rear view mirror with a sensor mounted directly under the front bumper.

      So after having spent a ton of time datalogging and re-tuning the MAT tables, I have extremely consistent WOT AFR’s and fuel trims across a wide range of inlet/ambient temperature variation. Unfortunately I don’t have access to a dyno for that, so it’s all by “seat of the pants” feel, WB O2 feedback for WOT, and monitoring the fuel trim in non-WOT. But the seat of the pants feel improvement was very significant and noticeable in terms of not feeling like I’m losing power any longer when the underhood temps get very hot.

      Nevertheless, I’ve always played around with the idea of building an actual “box” with an air inlet coming out the front of the air dam. I’ve just never been able to come up with a design that I thought was good. My curiosity has been whether I'm getting a reduction in inlet air pressure because of the filter location. Although, monitoring the MAP sensor doesn't seem to indicate I'm suffering in that regard since at WOT on the freeway (where I'd expect to see that kind of negative effect), the MAP is reporting 99.5-100 kPa (essentially atmospheric pressure). If I was getting a large pressure drop due to filter placement or air tube design, I'd expect to never get to that manifold pressure. But I’m still curious to see what you guys have cooked up.
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    8. #88
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      I’d love to see some details on your airbox set up. Not sure what you mean by "heat soaking"... but here are my thoughts on that subject...
      From the net: "The term, “heat soak” refers to a raise in the engine coolant system temperature and pressure after the engine is turned off."

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bob in St. Louis View Post
      Wicked car, great video. But the mic on a GoPro sounds like trash. :(
      Sal agrees, I just ordered a wind sock that will help tone it down. The mic is mounted under the rear bumper so it's pretty much a direct shot from the exhaust tips. Think I might move it up above the tank.

      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      I’d love to see some details on your airbox set up. Not sure what you mean by "heat soaking"... but here are my thoughts on that subject...

      I’m running a Gen 1 SBC with a Miniram intake using GM TPI style electronics and have done a tremendous amount of experimentation on relocated MAT sensor and cold air tube, with really good results.

      I relocated the battery to the trunk and then cut a 4” hole into the sheet metal where the battery used to reside. I then routed a 4” composite air tube to that hole and mounted an air filter directly under it. I then added a bunch of heat shielding (sheet metal pieces) around the air filter to further isolate it from engine compartment.

      I also then relocated the MAT sensor to directly on the snout of the air filter (it’s a K&N conical filter). Some may argue that’s not the true air temp at the inlet to the throttle body, but I’m not sure I agree. With a composite air tube, the air doesn’t have enough time to pick up heat from the engine compartment particularly when the composite material can’t conduct heat into the air stream quickly enough. So by having the MAT sensor closer to the throttle body, I’d argue you’re actually artificially heat soaking the sensor via hot air from outside the tube.

      Any rate, all of this testing and redesign had the effect of limiting the air temperature (as read by the ECM) to essentially never go above ~15°C over ambient (which only occurs in stop and go traffic or sitting at a fast food drive-thru or stuff like that). Compare that to before my mods when the air temp would easily get to 50-75° over ambient. When driving at speed, it’s reading dead-on at ambient temperature… ambient as reported by the digital read-out on my rear view mirror with a sensor mounted directly under the front bumper.

      So after having spent a ton of time datalogging and re-tuning the MAT tables, I have extremely consistent WOT AFR’s and fuel trims across a wide range of inlet temperature variation. Unfortunately I don’t have access to a dyno for that, so it’s all by “seat of the pants” feel, WB O2 feedback for WOT, and monitoring the fuel trim in non-WOT. But the seat of the pants feel improvement was very significant and noticeable in terms of not feeling like I’m losing power any longer when the underhood temps get very hot.

      Nevertheless, I’ve always played around with the idea of building an actual “box” with an air inlet coming out the front of the air dam. I’ve just never been able to come up with a design that I thought was good. My curiosity has been whether I'm getting a reduction in inlet air pressure because of the filter location. Although, monitoring the MAP sensor doesn't seem to indicate I'm suffering in that regard since at WOT on the freeway (where I'd expect to see that kind of negative effect), the MAP is reporting 99.5-100 kPa (essentially atmospheric pressure). If I was getting a large pressure drop due to filter placement or air tube design, I'd expect to never get to that manifold pressure. But I’m still curious to see what you guys have cooked up.
      There are a ton of pics of the old airbox in this thread. It is fed by dual 3" grill inlets but the filter is superheating the air coming in. Plus, the air filter was just too small. It was basically a panel filter for a stock 5.3 pickup airbox. IAT's were 35-40 degrees over ambient with the hood open and a 5' fan blowing on the front end at WOT. The airbox itself was 50+ over ambient with a laser temp gun (filter sitting inside of it). The only time IAT's settle in even within 20 degrees of ambient is at 80 mph cruising down the highway and you go WOT.

      As of right now the new C6Z filter is just sitting out in the open.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, I see the box in front of the radiator. Is it made out of metal? Are the tubes supplying the box made out of metal?

      Where is your MAT sensor located?
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bob in St. Louis View Post
      From the net: "The term, “heat soak” refers to a raise in the engine coolant system temperature and pressure after the engine is turned off."
      Understood.

      But in terms of air temperature, the only things that can really “soak” are the air tube and the intake manifold (and the MAT sensor itself if it’s in the engine compartment). LS engines have composite manifolds, so the “heat soak” issue would be far less pronounced than say on my aluminum Miniram. So for the short period of time where my manifold temp is coming down in temperature from a “soak”, the MAT sensor reading being so far upstream may not reflect the actual air temp going into the cylinder. But, again, that’s a temporary condition and evidently not detectable by me in the driver seat.

      But once the engine starts, the air stream should be taking heat off the internal surfaces of the tube and manifold pretty quickly, and with the lousy thermal conductivity of plastic LS manifold, it shouldn’t be able to conduct external heat through material fast enough to continue heating up the air stream in any significant way.

      All I’m saying is the engine will respond to whatever it’s seeing from the MAT sensor, so the sensor location is very important in terms of taking into consideration all the things I mentioned above and having the ECM respond to reality. If the sensor is reading artificially high, the ECM will lean out the mixture unnecessarily and cost power.

      The car is bad-a$$ BTW!!
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Sales-TCI-Eng View Post
      Sal agrees, I just ordered a wind sock that will help tone it down. The mic is mounted under the rear bumper so it's pretty much a direct shot from the exhaust tips. Think I might move it up above the tank.
      .
      I don't believe it's a placement thing. It's just that GoPro mics don't sound "right' for loud things.
      I've done some shooting videos with mine, and it sounds like I'm shooting underwater. They don't like loud noises, car exhaust included. Your cel phone audio would have a MUCH higher audio quality.
      Granted, it's real hard to strap your cel phone to the bumper of a car. haha

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      Understood.

      But in terms of air temperature, the only things that can really “soak” are the air tube and the intake manifold (and the MAT sensor itself if it’s in the engine compartment). LS engines have composite manifolds, so the “heat soak” issue would be far less pronounced than say on my aluminum Miniram. So for the short period of time where my manifold temp is coming down in temperature from a “soak”, the MAT sensor reading being so far upstream may not reflect the actual air temp going into the cylinder. But, again, that’s a temporary condition and evidently not detectable by me in the driver seat.

      But once the engine starts, the air stream should be taking heat off the internal surfaces of the tube and manifold pretty quickly, and with the lousy thermal conductivity of plastic LS manifold, it shouldn’t be able to conduct external heat through material fast enough to continue heating up the air stream in any significant way.



      All I’m saying is the engine will respond to whatever it’s seeing from the MAT sensor, so the sensor location is very important in terms of taking into consideration all the things I mentioned above and having the ECM respond to reality. If the sensor is reading artificially high, the ECM will lean out the mixture unnecessarily and cost power.

      The car is bad-a$$ BTW!!

      IAT's are measured via the maf sensor on the LS7 & LS3. The sensor was about 7" in front of the throttle body. The air filter sits inside of a superheated box directly behind the radiator so it is absolutely heat soaked. It is basically acting as an interheater, opposite of an intercooler. We would have liked to move the filter element farther down the intake tract, away from the radiator but there isn't enough room.

      Quote Originally Posted by Bob in St. Louis View Post
      I don't believe it's a placement thing. It's just that GoPro mics don't sound "right' for loud things.
      I've done some shooting videos with mine, and it sounds like I'm shooting underwater. They don't like loud noises, car exhaust included. Your cel phone audio would have a MUCH higher audio quality.
      Granted, it's real hard to strap your cel phone to the bumper of a car. haha
      Agreed, the internal gopro mics suck. Especially in the wind. We are using a standalone mic remote mounted. You can actually see the cables reflection on the passenger side view.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"


    14. #94
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Oh your MAT sensor is in the MAF sensor... yeah that would be a problem yeah...
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      Oh your MAT sensor is in the MAF sensor... yeah that would be a problem yeah...
      It is not a full circle plastic housing maf like the earlier 24x ECU's used originally. It is a stand alone inserted maf cartridge with a separate map sensor. All LS3's and LS7's use it.

      The maf sensor is in roughly the same location now and IAT's will drop to ambient at WOT unlike before. Even without an actual airbox getting clean/cool air from the grill yet. We'll have it on the dyno next week to confirm it's making more power.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

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