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    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Location
      Marina Del Rey, CA
      Posts
      166
      Country Flag: United States
      In all honesty I don't believe anyone has a rust free car unless it's been torn down and sandblasted. A 50 year old car with a new paint job means it's been resprayed and you'll never known how far down they actually went or what's hiding down below that'll creep up in a few years.



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ADiCarlo View Post
      In all honesty I don't believe anyone has a rust free car unless it's been torn down and sandblasted. A 50 year old car with a new paint job means it's been resprayed and you'll never known how far down they actually went or what's hiding down below that'll creep up in a few years.
      I don't know about that....


      See look at this one...$12,500. Will obviously need to be re-painted one day...Is $12,500 even considered a good price for one of these? If it is please LMK

      http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4269031168.html
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Birmingham, AL
      Posts
      3,356
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by ADiCarlo View Post
      In all honesty I don't believe anyone has a rust free car unless it's been torn down and sandblasted. A 50 year old car with a new paint job means it's been resprayed and you'll never known how far down they actually went or what's hiding down below that'll creep up in a few years.
      I don't know about that....


      See look at this one...$12,500. Will obviously need to be re-painted one day...Is $12,500 even considered a good price for one of these? If it is please LMK

      http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4269031168.html
      No way I would pay 12500 for a car with tribal flames. Just me. I would use that as a bargaining tool, that car is already dated.
      Stephen

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by srh3trinity View Post
      No way I would pay 12500 for a car with tribal flames. Just me. I would use that as a bargaining tool, that car is already dated.
      In your opinion, what would you say it's worth, considering the car checks out.

      V.R
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      I am betting most of the cars you have shown here as rust free are full of bondo. Faded original paint or a very old respray is what you should be looking for. Then you can tell if it is rust free. Recent paint jobs are likely hiding bondo and rust in the price range you are looking.

      Just my two cents.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
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      3,280
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      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      I am betting most of the cars you have shown here as rust free are full of bondo. Faded original paint or a very old respray is what you should be looking for. Then you can tell if it is rust free. Recent paint jobs are likely hiding bondo and rust in the price range you are looking.

      Just my two cents.

      Don
      Ahh, Don...Why such the negativity? California and Nevada cars can easily be rust free. I agree with you, you have to check.

      How much do you think these cars should be going for?
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      Ahh, Don...Why such the negativity? California and Nevada cars can easily be rust free. I agree with you, you have to check.

      How much do you think these cars should be going for?
      Well I'm in Texas, also home to rust free cars and this is just what I have found over the years. As far as value goes I picked up a reasonably rust free genuine 70 Z28 shell a few years ago for $6000. Only rust was in the trunk drop offs. The original engine was long gone but I sold the radiator for $900 and the wheels and some other parts for another $1000. I think something like this rather than a resprayed running car might be the best car for what you want to do. You just have to be patient and keep scouring Craigslist.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Northern New Mexico
      Posts
      224
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with Don. In your price range if it has recent paint its most likely a quickly job done for resale and no telling what's underneath to haunt you down the road. A decent driver paint job in so cal is likely at least 8,000. Add that to a decent shell and your quickly at 15-20. I would either look at cars in the 18-20 range that don't need any work or look at cars that may not look pretty but it's faults are there to be seen. I would rather spend more upfront than deal with paint jail and trying to find a shop that you can trust to do a good job in a timely manner. I've had a couple early second gens and one area that is always rusty are the lower corners of the front fenders by the door edges. I always look there first.

      With a higher starting point you will likely have more valuable parts to sell off to recoup some of the cost.
      Paul Viramontes

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
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      Quote Originally Posted by PSV View Post
      I agree with Don. In your price range if it has recent paint its most likely a quickly job done for resale and no telling what's underneath to haunt you down the road. A decent driver paint job in so cal is likely at least 8,000. Add that to a decent shell and your quickly at 15-20. I would either look at cars in the 18-20 range that don't need any work or look at cars that may not look pretty but it's faults are there to be seen. I would rather spend more upfront than deal with paint jail and trying to find a shop that you can trust to do a good job in a timely manner. I've had a couple early second gens and one area that is always rusty are the lower corners of the front fenders by the door edges. I always look there first.

      With a higher starting point you will likely have more valuable parts to sell off to recoup some of the cost.
      I agree, sometimes things are too good to be true. Sometimes there are good deals tho...Wouldnt a simple magnet test tell me if the certain areas a plastered with bondo?
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Northern New Mexico
      Posts
      224
      Country Flag: United States
      A magnet test is better than nothing, but I prefer an electronic paint gauge that will tell you the thickness. They are pricey so would want to see if you can borrow one or see if a shop that has one would examine a car your considering for a small fee. If you can see good photos of the car prior to work done is also helpful. Best of luck. I hope you find a good one.

      Take a look at this topic and maybe send Rick a pm and see if the car is for sale. It wil be done correctly and you can choose the color.

      http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=44341
      Paul Viramontes

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by PSV View Post
      A magnet test is better than nothing, but I prefer an electronic paint gauge that will tell you the thickness. They are pricey so would want to see if you can borrow one or see if a shop that has one would examine a car your considering for a small fee. If you can see good photos of the car prior to work done is also helpful. Best of luck. I hope you find a good one.

      Take a look at this topic and maybe send Rick a pm and see if the car is for sale. It wil be done correctly and you can choose the color.

      http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=44341


      Thanks, I sent him a PM.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

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