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    Page 7 of 10 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 LastLast
    Results 121 to 140 of 195
    1. #121
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by DJW32 View Post
      I may have missed it, but what trans are you using?
      4L80........Hoping to paddle shift it.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    2. #122
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      We finally got the frame rails back from sandblasting. Well......they only baked it apparently. Anyways, waited this long so we are moving on.

      One of the guys in the shop mentioned that we had a chassis dolly in storage. He thought it was sturdy enough to build a temporary fixture out of so we took a few guys down there and grabbed it. Sure enough, this thing is a monster and honestly I am kinda glad that it is short. This way I can place the cab and bed on it if need be. Will come in handy with doing a body drop.


      I had to install a CPP driveshaft loop because the stock one would interfere with the chassis dolly.




      Unfortunately, not much progress will be made for the next week. I fly out to Louisville tomorrow for the Street Rod Nationals and I won't be back until Thursday next week.
      Last edited by Sales-TCI-Eng; 08-11-2017 at 01:14 PM.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    3. #123
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      I am finally back in town so it's time to make some real progress. I spent my lunch today tracing and cutting one of the rear boxing plates. It's sucks that I had to cut it with the hand held plasma vs. the hi-def but I can't wait for R&D to draw the plate(they're super busy finishing up the squarebody 4-Link).

      So basically what we have done is give the rear suspension an extra 3.5" of travel. The bottomed out height before is where the new set up will be at ride height. I left the rail height at 6" at the step so there is plenty of strength for towing.







      Last edited by Sales-TCI-Eng; 08-14-2017 at 07:39 AM.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    4. #124
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Here are two renderings we've been working on. Leaning towards the blue.



      Making progress on the stepped rails. Just a lot of mocking up, grinding, cutting. welding and not necessarily in that order.







      Dimensionally I am pretty happy with the outcome. Side to side height is perfect and front to back placement are within 1/32". I am off .25 degree of vertical on the driver side(should have cross braced it before the heat). I've still got work to do on it cosmetically though.



      I am going to lay another panel on the outside here that butts up against the top of the stock frame.





      Still need to drill a few holes for Rosettes.

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"


    5. #125
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Sevierville, TN
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm digging the blue, but I'm a bit biased. LOL
      Matt Kenner

      68 C10 stepside

      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

    6. #126
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      August was a busy month of shows so not much progress has been made.

      The boxing plates are slowly coming along though.







      Braced the top of the step and cut the stock frame piece out.

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    7. #127
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Got some cool(errr hot) parts ordered this week. No picture tease yet but parts are on the way. Getting real close to engine/tranny mock up.

      The frame is absolutely ugly right now but the fitment is pretty darn good. Had to section the top and bottom(note the cut) in order to pull the outer wall of the frame into the step. Still have to clean it up before laying down a bead.



      I wanted to add a little extra bracing inside the frame rail where the front shock mounts. Main reason is our engine mounts triangulate the frame and the crossmember but I am setting the engine back. It's a just a piece of 1x2.120w tubing



      Started working on the front boxing plates. I cut the driver side with the handheld plasma like I did the rears. Once it fit I used that as the tamplate for the passenger side. There will be a filler plate added to the top of the rail to close the gap.

      Last edited by Sales-TCI-Eng; 09-28-2017 at 01:25 PM.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    8. #128
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Not a whole lot to report the last two weeks. Spent roughly 20 hours grinding all the excess pieces of frame/weld.



      12.5 lbs worth



      In honor of Hugh Heffner, here are the twins.

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    9. #129
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Mounting the ballast.... Since the bed wasn't mounted yet I just took a guess on where they should be based off the factory cab mounts.





      Came pretty close on my guesstimate.



      You can kinda see it hiding under there.



      Mounted the Holley Hi-Ram to check for clearance issues.





      I have always hated the 67-72 dash. It's flat, tall, ugly and boring.





      So about 5:30 last night I'm in the shop and Ed(Owner of TCI) comes walking out of his office. I'm sitting on a short stool inside the cab just staring at the dash contemplating things. Ed says "You know, when I was building my Mustang I wish I would have cut the dash out. It would have made my life much easier". That was all I needed to hear. I grabbed a sharpie and started marking it up. Removed the few retaining bolts and fired up the plasma cutter. I left a one inch flange to attach the replacement dash to later.






      With the dash out it became very clear to me how the tunnel and firewall should be cut. I knew I wanted to push the engine back, I just didn't know how much.



      So I took some measurements and rigged up a floor mounted fixture to use as a guide with the plasma cutter and went to town.





      Once you exceed 3-4" of setback things start to get interesting (difficult). However, once you go beyond 3-4" it's not much different to go 10-12" vs. 6". In the position below the engine is back 10" from the factory location.

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    10. #130
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      We have a few different sets of headers sitting around the shop we use for mock up. Of all the ones I tried our own off the shelf headers fit the best. Mainly because the rear cylinder primaries go forward slightly before going down. This actually allowed me to move the engine back another 2.5"(12.5" total) with relative ease. I had to raise the engine in order to keep the pans(engine & tranny) above the bottom of the frame anyway. It had to go up over an inch(too much) in order to keep the transmission tabs off the tunnel. Now I've got clearance issues with the intake manifold. Next week I'll trim the tunnel a little more where the tranny tabs are interfering so I can bring the engine down roughly 1/2". This may or may not be enough to clear the intake manifold again.

      Needless to say if the engine stays this far back I will have a constant foot warmer.



      Last edited by Sales-TCI-Eng; 10-09-2017 at 06:27 AM.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    11. #131
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      FL
      Posts
      318
      Country Flag: United States
      Twins, engine set back, it's starting to look like pure Awesome is the plan for this thing! Now I see what you meant earlier by having some tricks up your sleeve.

      I'm in full support of putting that engine back as far as possible. Have you set the final engine position yet? How much further back will it be from stock? Looks like at least 12inches!
      -Mitch
      G8 GXP, White Hot, Auto, bone stock
      68 Firebird, 428 Pontiac, CNC'd KRE Al d-ports, hyd roller, EFI, TKO600, TCI Eng complete chassis, Ridetech, Kore3 C6Z brakes, C5Z 18" with 315 rivals x4, C6zr1 mufflers
      RRR, NASA HPDE https://youtu.be/DPp1l9-FuNE

    12. #132
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,078
      Country Flag: United States
      Is the dash pad for sale since you cut the dash out? Lol im building a 70 and need one
      72 chevelle.

    13. #133
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gator68428 View Post
      Twins, engine set back, it's starting to look like pure Awesome is the plan for this thing! Now I see what you meant earlier by having some tricks up your sleeve.

      I'm in full support of putting that engine back as far as possible. Have you set the final engine position yet? How much further back will it be from stock? Looks like at least 12inches!
      That last pic is 12.5" back. Haven't really decided where final placement will be.

      Quote Originally Posted by chevelletiger View Post
      Is the dash pad for sale since you cut the dash out? Lol im building a 70 and need one
      I'll look around. It was removed 4 years ago but it's probably around here somewhere.

      -J
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    14. #134
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Haven't made much progress lately. Ed and I have been discussing the chassis center section and engine placement at length. There is no physical way to lower the engine in place so we've decided to build a removable lower section of the chassis. It will have 6 attachment points and allow the body/chassis to be lowered over the top of it. I've built this over and over in my head so many times that I get disappointed when I walk into R&D and see that it isn't physically built yet. I should start on it today though.

      Much like the engine placement, cab placement is still up in the air. I had read and spoke to a few C10 builders that if you body drop .75" the bottom of the pinch weld will be dead even with the bottom of the frame. That's not the case on this truck. I am currently using our Camaro 3/8" spacers(which are roughly.75" less than the stock rubber mounts) between the cab and frame mounts and the pinch weld is still well below the bottom of the frame. On top of that the rear of the cab is lower than the front, using the frame as reference. This kind of works to my advantage though. I had kinda wanted to tilt/rake the whole body down a degree or two in the front. My plan is to make the bottom of the cab parallel to the bottom of the frame.

      All of that means that the core support bushings will also need to be modified to assume the new angle. This pic is with roughly 1" less thickness.



      I was at a stand still with cab placement because I wanted the pinch weld rolled up flat. I'm an OCD photog so i've seen way to many good looking trucks be ruined by the pinch weld.



      -J
      Last edited by Sales-TCI-Eng; 10-26-2017 at 10:08 AM.
      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    15. #135
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Ed was working on shock placement while Sal and I were at SEMA. Here is what he came up with. This is basically our original upper shock mount raised another 7/16". She's going to be loooooooooooooooooooowwwwww.

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    16. #136
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chevelletiger View Post
      Is the dash pad for sale since you cut the dash out? Lol im building a 70 and need one
      I found the dash pad the other day. Decent shape, I can send you a pic if you e-mail me. [email protected] It's yours if you want it.




      SEMA, Pleasanton & Scottsdale, 3 weekends in a row working out of town has slowed progress on the C10.

      We needed a little room under the cab for intercooler piping.



      Still need to roll the edge to add some strength.



      Started working on the chromoly center section. Form fitted around the tranny on the bottom side. The two middle tubes aren't mounted yet. There will be a couple cross braces added for the tranny mount & driveshaft loop.

      *NOTE* The relationship between the front of the bell housing and the cab mount. ;)




      The Torque Arm will end up filling out this space so I needed to devise a way to gain clearance. It took some thought to get the angles right but the bend came out perfect (Even though chromoly deflects so much after being bent).

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    17. #137
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Posts
      160
      Country Flag: United States
      I tend to scroll past some of the more common build vehicles but this one caught my eye. I love the direction you are taking this, promise you will beat the tar out of a porsche when you finish it lol.

    18. #138
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      297
      Country Flag: United States
      Class Act Build Details! Nice, Nice, Nice.

    19. #139
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      Still plugging away on the center section. Built the main tranny hoop and tied it in with some downbars. It is just tacked in place at this time. I still need to throw the cab back on to confirm placement. It'll make sense why the tubes are on top of the frame once the cab is back on.



      I still need to make a couple tabs to close out the round tube on top of the frame.



      The rear tube placement must be 21" behind the front one to fit properly. I plan to tie the driveshaft loop, tranny mount and Torque Arm mount all together in that area.

      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

    20. #140
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      885
      Country Flag: United States
      We had our friends at California Rebuilt Exchange build us a quick ratio manual rack. Yes, that's right, a manual rack with what will likely be 315 or 335 tires on the steering axle. I better start eating all the spinach.

      In all seriousness though. We are going to begin testing the feasability of running EPAS with our suspension. I figure that if it can handle this type of load & abuse then pretty much every other application will be just fine.



      www.totalcostinvolved.com
      "Quality doesn't cost, it pays"

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