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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Anchorage Alaska
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States

      New to the forum stationed in Alaska

      Starting with me I'm 25 building my first resto mod car. I found the car while on leave at home.
      She was a field find and the only info I got was it was used as an old drag car around town and the original owner dropped a 440 in it. I'm not foreign to cars at all and have tried all types my first car was a 1966 falcon and I will always be a falcon guy but it's time to build something different.

      I decoded the vin and didn't find anything special so I have started my plans with the car my goal right now:

      800 horses
      great weekend cruiser
      hit the drag strips occasionally
      and one day do a full hot rod cruise

      Plans, criticism and help are greatly appreciated first mopar build:

      I found a company that makes a chassis with brakes combo and rear end I'm kinda leaning too and wanting to see if anyone's running or a similar set up. For the combo it would be wilwood brakes, mosler rear, 3.89 gears

      http://www.schwartzperformance.com/m...is-full-frame/

      stroke the 440 to a 512 with EFI
      kiesler 6 speed
      i haven't picked wheels but the will be 18's all the way around
      I'll delete the back seats
      AAR hood




      let me know ideas and suggestions I have seen a few builds on the site and was very impressed! All the 74 parts will be changed out to 70s.

      The build will start next year as I have a year and a half left in Alaska and can get back to Oklahoma and hands on the car


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      49,371
      Country Flag: United States
      Welcome to PT!

      T.C.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      1,413
      Country Flag: United States
      Welcome! It sounds like a good build you're going to be doing! It should be relatively easy to find someone with a similar build/chassis on here.


      Ridetech Suspsension
      Tech Specialist
      Phone: 812.481.4734

      Project Fox
      1979 Trans Am

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2013
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Welcome!!!

      Bowler Performance/
      Phantom-Products


      www.bowlertransmissions.com

      www.phantom-products.com

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Plano, Texas
      Posts
      355
      Country Flag: United States
      800 horses - and something you can cruise in - how so? Supercharger, turbo(s)? It will be hard to make a car with that much power and be truly drivable unless you use some type of forced induction. At that power level your best path would be to go with a World product block. http://www.worldcastings.com/product...ine_type_key=4 Then at that point your question would be Wedge or Hemi... Hemi will end up costing a lot more. Depends on your "budget". Twin Turbo Hemi does have a nice ring to it.

      Do you know anyone running this chassis? Looks stout. It is almost like you will be bolting your car body to this chassis. I like that the pictures show the "optional" Dana 60 axle. I would really want feedback from someone who has one in an E-body and drives it. Look into the RMS suspension system as an option also. Not as much cutting. Can be had with QA1 or air bags. https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php
      https://www.reillymotorsports.com/st...ry.php?pid=141
      https://www.reillymotorsports.com/st...ry.php?pid=135

      Kiesler is not the only option... I went with American Powertrain for the same transmission set-up. Gray at APT is a Mopar guy, and the tech guy knows his stuff (sorry can't remember his name at the moment). Either way be prepared to do some significant cutting of the tunnel and crossmember support.

      18s are cool. 18s front, 19s rear is an option too...

      I love the AAR hood, at one time was thinking of doing something like it for my car. Stinger fiberglass comes highly recommended for the Mopars, very high quality. I have heard that their "AAR" hood is better quality than the factory hood.
      https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com...ood-70-74-bolt
      https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com...d-1970-74-lift
      Michael Mosley
      1968 Barracuda
      Plano, TX

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...in-Plano-Texas

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Anchorage Alaska
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States
      Mmosley thanks for the advice, I would like to run a supercharger but I haven't gotten that far in engine planning yet. I like the setups you showed but I also like the full frame I can drop my body down on and it be lighter and completely new. I have a neighbor in Oklahoma who just opened a car shop he will be helping me build the car and doing all the body work. I don't see 800 horse being to unreasonable on the street. Is it high yes and burning through fuel will suck but I have to compete against my neighbors 900 horse grand national.

      I'm still deciding on parts and I really have a lot of research to due and that's why I joined pt. I'm very thankful people are already throwing ideas out and I greatly appreciate I do a lot of research and try to find the product that works with the best reviews.

      The aar hood I am definitely doing but I would like to cut it and make the intake size about an 2 inches larger.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      New to the forum stationed in Alaska

      Welcome to the forum!

      Let me know if you have any specific questions on our chassis.
      As for feedback on drive able cars, all of our chassis utilize the same suspension parts and geometry, so they all handle very similar no matter which car were talking about. There are only a few complete Mopars with our chassis on the road that I know of, but nobody on here I think.

      For wheels I would recommend a 19 too- the quarters fill up better with them.
      I assume you'll be minitubbing the car, so 345 wide rears, 255-265 fronts is recommended.

      Also we build cars, and are a Tremec dealer and can get you a T56 magnum and American Powertrain clutch parts if needed!

      -Dale

      [email protected]
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Anchorage Alaska
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States
      Schwartz

      Thanks for the help. If you know anyone that is running one of your chassis set ups I would love to talk to them and what uses they use the car for. I will be getting with you for the full set up on the car if you offer trans as well. Trans wise what are they rated horsepower wise?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Plano, Texas
      Posts
      355
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Schwartz Performance View Post
      Welcome to the forum!

      Let me know if you have any specific questions on our chassis.
      As for feedback on drive able cars, all of our chassis utilize the same suspension parts and geometry, so they all handle very similar no matter which car were talking about. There are only a few complete Mopars with our chassis on the road that I know of, but nobody on here I think.

      For wheels I would recommend a 19 too- the quarters fill up better with them.
      I assume you'll be minitubbing the car, so 345 wide rears, 255-265 fronts is recommended.

      Also we build cars, and are a Tremec dealer and can get you a T56 magnum and American Powertrain clutch parts if needed!

      -Dale

      [email protected]
      Dale, did not doubt the capability of the chassis, looks to be a well engineered piece. I would be inclined to weld it into the existing structure unless there was an overwhelming desire to be able to unbolt it later for some reason. I'm more interested in how they finished it out in the engine bay and such.

      What is the limit / limiting factor on front tire size? Do you know? Is there a good match for the front with 345 in rear? Why not a little bigger? Is 285 or 295 possible on the E-body?
      Michael Mosley
      1968 Barracuda
      Plano, TX

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...in-Plano-Texas

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Plano, Texas
      Posts
      355
      Country Flag: United States
      One place that sells superchargers, lot of pictures of Mopars here:

      http://www.thesuperchargerstore.com/Mopar.html
      Michael Mosley
      1968 Barracuda
      Plano, TX

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...in-Plano-Texas

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Broken_plymouth View Post
      Schwartz

      Thanks for the help. If you know anyone that is running one of your chassis set ups I would love to talk to them and what uses they use the car for. I will be getting with you for the full set up on the car if you offer trans as well. Trans wise what are they rated horsepower wise?
      The magnums are rated for 700lbft. But we have had them behind 1000hp turbo cars without issues.
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by mmosley View Post
      Dale, did not doubt the capability of the chassis, looks to be a well engineered piece. I would be inclined to weld it into the existing structure unless there was an overwhelming desire to be able to unbolt it later for some reason. I'm more interested in how they finished it out in the engine bay and such.

      What is the limit / limiting factor on front tire size? Do you know? Is there a good match for the front with 345 in rear? Why not a little bigger? Is 285 or 295 possible on the E-body?
      No problem! Didn't think you doubted
      We've had guys weld it in, and/or channel the body over it for a really low ride height. The idea is that you don't need the fab skills to install is that way, but if you do, then you can do whatever you want.
      The limiting factor is that turning radius will be affected, as the tires will hit the sway bar arms. You could definitely do a 295 but turning radius will be a little limited. Most guys prefer to not have to perform 10 point turns, as most do a ton of street driving over racing where they'd utilize a 275-295.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more





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