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    Thread: 69' nova

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States

      69' nova

      Hello!

      New to the forum. I figured I would get a project thread started.

      About 2 months ago I bought a 69' nova. So far, nothing too crazy but I want to keep it a driver for now. Eventually there will be more, but for now here is what I am doing.

      DSE multi-leaf
      DSE speed 1 kit
      DSE steering gear box
      DSE tie rods
      All new steering components
      Vintage Wheel Works V40s.
      Nitto NT05. 235/40R17, 255/40R17
      Kore3 C6 front brake kit



      Pictures shortly.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
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    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
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    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
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    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks like a great start. Are those hubs from Tobin also? And do those wheels fit without a spacer?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      Yup. Hubs are from Tobin.

      The wheels fit great...so far. They are 8" w/4.75 BS and 9" w/5.5" BS if I recall correctly.

      I will be finishing up the brake mock up this week. After talking to Tobin and reading other accounts, I think the caliper/wheel clearance should be close. I'll document any issues that arrise.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      ohio
      Posts
      1,135
      Country Flag: United States
      looking good glad to see another nova ;)
      keep the wheels a spinning and the Beavers a grinning(burt reynolds-smokey and the bandit)

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Bear, DE
      Posts
      346
      Looks like a great start, I really like the color/trim/wheel package.
      Jason Nichols
      '72 Chevy Nova-The Blue Bomb https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...972-Chevy-Nova

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: United States
      That's good. I just picked up a z51 brake kit from Tobin and am looking for wheels that will fit. I like the classic 5 spoke style too.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      New lower shock plates came in today so I was able to finish up the multi-leaf conversion. Something to note is that when you order a DSE drop leaf kit it doesn't include the multi-leaf u-bolt bolts, spacer blocks, or upper locating plate. It also ships with single bolt shock ends. If you use a shock with an eye on the bottom leaf plate, you need to find or order the correct shock plates ( I think they are just the normal multi-leaf plates). I'm sure all this is probably obvious but after talking with them about my conversion I was told I did not need a new plate ... which I then had to order later to finish the conversion.

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      I also worked on the front brake conversion today. Packed the bearings and installed the hubs. I also did a quick mock up of the wheels to get an idea of caliper clearance. Unfortunately I'm still waiting for the rotors so I can't get an accurate measurement yet but yikes! It's going to be close. I wouldn't doubt if I end up needing a 1/8" spacer or so.

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    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: United States
      win for the build thread. good information! (I'm planning on installing a dseML)

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      101
      Country Flag: Canada
      I'm going to be doing my 70 SS soon and would love to know more about the vette brake system, hubs, donor year etc? Trying to get as much info to make informed/cost effective choices, thanks!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Hildebran, NC
      Posts
      992
      Country Flag: United States
      This is a great suspension set up. This is what is what i am running.

      You would be ahead of the game to go ahead and do the Guildstrand-Mod. (lowers the UCA mounting points)
      This front end setup is far tighter than stock, gives you more caster, but does not help camber gain at all.
      If you push the car hard in turns, the outside of the tire will roll over like crazy. (Even with an aggresive alignment)

      Do some searches on here for G-Mod and you can see what some others did.

      This, along with everything else you have will make a HUGE difference in handling from stock.

      Everyone that rides in my car is really impressed.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      GS455vert,
      I would recommend you give Tobin a call at kore3. He can tell you more than you would ever want to know about brake systems. I purchased my whole kit from Tobin including the hubs which are made by them. The parts work perfectly and the service was top notch.

      rchaskin,
      Is it really as easy as it sounds? Just print the template from pozziracing.com, drill a couple of holes, trim off the top, and replace the mounting studs... If so I will jump on doing this while I'm waiting on my rotors.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Hildebran, NC
      Posts
      992
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Oregon View Post
      Is it really as easy as it sounds? Just print the template from pozziracing.com, drill a couple of holes, trim off the top, and replace the mounting studs... If so I will jump on doing this while I'm waiting on my rotors.
      That is it.
      Really makes a difference. Keeps the tires flat under cornering.

      There is a spot on the UCA mounts that is not flat on the factory Nova frame.
      I did a little different than the template.

      The template is for cars with factory a-arms. It relocates the mount down (camber gain) and rearward (for added caster).

      Since I have the DSE arms as well, and they add more caster, I only moved my holes straight down. (5/8" IIRC)

      This keeps the bolt holes away from that place that is not flat on the mount.

      Good Luck!!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      rchaskin,

      I called DSE to see what they thought of the Guildstrand mod along with the upper A-arms. They made it sound like it's not a positive or negative.

      Did you install your arms and then later do the mod? If so, was it a noticeable difference from before? I'm just trying to decide if the mod is necessary.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Hildebran, NC
      Posts
      992
      Country Flag: United States
      I did just like you are doing.
      Tubular UCA, tubular LCA, DSE 2" drop springs, DSE swaybar.

      I did all of this at one time.
      The car handled great on the road. I was running about -1 degree camber.

      The first event I went to, I wore all of the rubber off the edges on the front tires.
      It really pushed the front end around too.

      Now, with the g-mod, I run about -1.5 degrees camber, and the tires don't roll over until you get down near 28 PSI.
      It made a big difference. Seems like way more grip.

      If you are only street cruising your car, I would not worry about it.
      My advice is to do it and find every autocross you can!!!!!

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      My rotors showed up from Kore3. I went to mount them and noticed that I have interference between the rotor hat and the pad abutment bracket. After talking with Tobin, he said he would contact DBA and see if anything has changed. If not, I may need to consider clearancing the abutment to clear the hat. That, or something is amiss.

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    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Hood River, OR
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, I re-torqued the spindle along with everything else and couldn't find anything that would force the rotor hat-to-bracket clearance issue. I ended up just clearancing the inside of the abutment bracket. I didn't have to take off much and everything clears now with room to spare.

      In order to get the wheels to clear the calipers I ended up using a 1/4" spacer.
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      I also installed a new power steering pump and lines.
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      Now everything is back together and the alignment has been done. Wow! What a difference the steering modifications have made. It feels like a different car. Same goes for the brakes. Everything turned out fantastic.

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    20. #20
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      alpine ca
      Posts
      657
      Country Flag: United States
      nice build fronts gotta come down some i would do the gulstrand mod you wont be disappointed
      good job on the car
      john
      1972 NOVA SPEED TECH TORQUE ARM AND FRONT ARMS , RUSHFORTH NIGHT TRAINS, DRIVERZ INC
      BUILD LINK
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...t-(GREY-MATTER)

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