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    Results 1 to 19 of 19
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States

      Retrofit Hydraulic Roller

      Hey guys, I've decided to change the cam in my SBC 350. I know nothing of this cam besides a .580 lift. Which means squat! I know the power doesn't kick in until 3,000 and then it's a hoot! I don't see myself driving around at that rpm.
      I contacted two companys and have my eyes on the cam needed. My issue is this... One company tells me I need to change out the valve springs along with everything else, pushrods, lifters, etc. The other company tells me that all I need are new pushrods and a thrust button. They tell me my springs should be fine. The motor has 5,000 miles on it and is a stock crate motor besides the cam of course.
      To change the valve springs or not? I see a lot of retrofit kits that don't have the valve springs, just the cam and lifters and some with pushrods.
      Any thoughts or comments?
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
      Posts
      1,918
      Country Flag: United States
      What is the cam brand & part # ?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States
      Ron,
      Thanks for stopping by. I was looking at Comp cams kit k12-423-8. This kit includes everything. I was also looking at Howard's kit CL113215-10. This is just the cam and lifters. Edelbrock has a kit that contains the cam, lifters, and pushrods. Comp has smaller kits also that don't include everything just like the Howard's and Edelbrock kit.
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Ca
      Posts
      336
      Country Flag: United States
      best thing to do is find out what specs your current springs are and compare to what the cam needs, typically a roller cam requires more pressure than a standard hyd. cam. you'll definitely need new push rods since the dimensions of the lifter will be different, i usually just change everything springs, lifters, and push rods just to make sure everything is going to work together correctly, adding a thrust button is a must in my opinion you don't want that cam walking. one more thing to look at is your distributor gear, depending on the cam you get you'll need to change to a bronze gear as well.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Sam.
      Howard's told me pushrods and thrust button a must. I like the idea of replacing everything. Then there's no doubt! It's the $600 or $1000 dollar question. I guess by time I buy the other stuff needed with the cheaper kits, I'll be right up there in the end?
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Posts
      107
      Country Flag: Cambodia
      Contact Chris Straub of Straub technologies. You can give him your engine specs and he can put a pkg together for the same money as ordering from a catalog. He will also take the time to explain your options. Your cheapest route would be to stay solid roller and get a cam more suited to your needs. You can probably do that for $400 or less. Straub will steer you straight.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Ca
      Posts
      336
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ROBS6T8 View Post
      Thanks Sam.
      Howard's told me pushrods and thrust button a must. I like the idea of replacing everything. Then there's no doubt! It's the $600 or $1000 dollar question. I guess by time I buy the other stuff needed with the cheaper kits, I'll be right up there in the end?
      i look at it like this, spend a thousand now or a few thousand later if the parts are not right. if you have to light of a spring you'll float valves and have all sorts of other problems, its best to do it right the first time. like i said before take a spring or two out and test them, that;ll give you an idea if you'll be able to run them or not, is your current cam solid or hyd? if its Hyd i doubt they'll be able to be reused.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by uxojerry View Post
      Contact Chris Straub of Straub technologies. You can give him your engine specs and he can put a pkg together for the same money as ordering from a catalog. He will also take the time to explain your options. Your cheapest route would be to stay solid roller and get a cam more suited to your needs. You can probably do that for $400 or less. Straub will steer you straight.
      Thank you Jerry. I've heard a lot about Chris. I know sticking with the flat tappet would be cheaper. I was just looking at the less maintenance and lack of oil additives in todays oil for the girly roller! i know nothing about this motor. It was in when I bought it. .580 lift is all. Evil bay purchase years ago.

      Quote Originally Posted by sam 74 View Post
      i look at it like this, spend a thousand now or a few thousand later if the parts are not right. if you have to light of a spring you'll float valves and have all sorts of other problems, its best to do it right the first time. like i said before take a spring or two out and test them, that;ll give you an idea if you'll be able to run them or not, is your current cam solid or hyd? if its Hyd i doubt they'll be able to be reused.
      Sam, I will probably go with the entire kit from Comp. it does make sense. I contacted Edelbrock about their kit and they told me that I needed to change the springs as well! Enough said. LSx? Joking people. Not that kind of money here!
      Thanks for the help.
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,505
      Country Flag: United States
      Retro rollers are heavy, and very prone to floating. I'd be more inclined to believe the vendors who tell you to replace the springs, than those who say the springs that worked with the much lighter non-roller lifters will be fine.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,177
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ROBS6T8 View Post
      LSx? Joking people. Not that kind of money here!
      Thanks for the help.
      Do it, do it!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Posts
      81
      Country Flag: United States
      Don't forget to check your piston to valve clearance with a new camshaft.. The last thing you want to do is smack a valve.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      British Columbia
      Posts
      614
      Country Flag: Canada
      Check out the Lunati cam in my build thread and have a listen to that scream at 7,000 rpm and you may want to call the boys over there. They were really helpful in getting the right set up in my car so bounce some questions off them.
      Todd
      '14 ZL1, 6 speed and 6.2L of Super Charged Awesome!
      '67 Camaro SS in process. A long, slow, expensive trip...


      How hard can it be...

      Project Obsession
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ject-Obsession

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Seattle area
      Posts
      360
      Changing from from a regular camshaft to a roller means you have change all the valve train pieces. Might as well throw in a set of head ,intake ,and timing cover gasket as well.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      I installed the Edelbrock #22015 retro roller cam kit in my 1st gen SBC. It is good from 1500-6500 rpm and is very driveable in normal stop and go traffic but will still set you back in the seat. I have been very happy with it.

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-22015/overview/
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States
      I forgot about this thread. Thanks Steve. That kit requires the springs. I'm going to go with the Comp kit. I will contact Lunati first with some questions.
      Thanks again guys.
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,177
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ROBS6T8 View Post
      I forgot about this thread. Thanks Steve. That kit requires the springs. I'm going to go with the Comp kit. I will contact Lunati first with some questions.
      Thanks again guys.
      Comp cam with your LSx right?

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Templeton, CA
      Posts
      561
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 67rally View Post
      Comp cam with your LSx right?
      How'd you know? It was suppose to be a secret. Thanks. I guess I'll stick with the small block, Gen 1 of course!
      Robert
      My sloooow build thread...https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...hlight=Orngasm

      "If happiness is in your destiny, you need not be in a hurry."

      If I can only convince myself of this!

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2013
      Location
      near Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      152
      Country Flag: United States
      Comp Cam hydraulic roller all the way! You won't be sorry. It is NOT cheap but good parts never are!
      Conrad
      Original owner '84 Grand National. CAS V1 (big) front-mount intercooler, Comp roller hyd cam, Champion Al intake/heads, T66 turbo, 3.5" custom cat-back exhaust, RideTech TruTurn front & DSE rear swaybars/ctrl arms, Ridetech 3-way coilovers, Baer 6P 14/13. FAST w/TouchScreen & GM Flex Fuel sensor, 120 lb injectors, Ricks SS tank, Aeromotive Eliminator pump.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      I killed my old 327 with the 22015 Edelbrock roller. I was very happy with that cam but for my new 383 stroker build I want to step things up a bit so I plan on running the Comp 4-Pattern cam #12-471-44.

      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!






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