Installing the T56 kit by Tyler Beauregard

Installing the T56 kit by Tyler Beauregard

Click here for a FAQ if you have any questions after reading this

These instructions are starting with the transmission removed.

Press new pilot bearing into rear of crank shaft (picture #1)
Using new hardware, install flywheel to crank shaft & torque bolts to 90 lb-ft. (note picture #2)
Clean flywheel surfacing with lacquer thinner.
Using a clutch alignment tool, install clutch (noting engine side)[pic #3] and pressure plate, installing the new hardware and torquing the bolts. [pic4]
Remove the 8 bolts that retain the bellhousing to the T56 case.

NOTE: now is a good time to see if your starter will clear the bellhousing.

With bellhousing in hand, put 1 bolt through the hole indicated (arrow) [pic5], as there is no clearance to put bolt in with bellhousing on the block.
Hoist bellhousing to the back of the block, and fit over dowel pins.
Now start all 6 bellhousing to block bolts by hand, and then remove clutch alignment tool.
Tighten all 6 bellhousing bolts.

NOTE: is actuator bracket is attached to bellhousing, remove it at this time by un-doing the 2 nuts all the way, and sliding the bracket rearwards off the 2 studs.

T56 case prep

Install supplied trans mount with instructions and hardware provided.
Place gearbox in neutral, and remove the shifter stub by taking out the 4 bolts to the tailshaft.
Cover the rectangular hole of the shifter plate with cardboard, and tape down to prevent debris from entering.
Check to make sure the case has 2 dowel pins in it (one each side).
Using a transmission jack and safety strap, raise transmission into position. [pic 6]
Working slowly, raise T56 to bellhousing, and slide input shaft into clutch, and into the dowel pin holes.

NOTE: if you are converting from an automatic trans, do not start all the case to bellhousing bolts, as you will be removing the tranny in a few steps.

Start the 8 case to bellhousing bolts by hand, and tighten in increments on pass and driver side to "draw" case to the bellhousing.
Support the tailshaft after the trans mount. [pic 7]
Using a scribe, mark off the hole for the shifter on the tunnel. Keep in mind that the hole will need to be 1" wider and longer than base.

Use the old carpenters rule: Measure twice, cut once

Remove the driver's seat, and the carpet, to gain access to the transmission tunnel.
Remove the bolts from the case, and remove the tranny.
Using a cutoff wheel or saw, cut the hole for shifter.
Reinstall the T56 case to the bellhousing, installing all 8 bolts, and tighten them as mentioned earlier.
With tailshaft supported before the poly mount, install crossmember.
This is easiest to do by sliding the two sides into the frame rails, and tapping each side with a hammer until it is lined up with the holes.
Start the 2 bolts from the poly mount, to the crossmember by hand. Do not tighten.
With the holes in the frame rails lined up with the holes in the crossmember, use a deep socket and 3" extension, to insert bolts. Do this by placing a bolt into the deep socket, and push it through the frame and into the crossmember.
Holding the bolt in place with the socket and extension, place the lockwasher over the bolt, and then thread the nut onto the bolt.
Repeat for remaining 3 bolts, and then tighten them diagonally, followed by the 2 mount to crossmember bolts.

The T56 is now installed in the car. You can remove the support devices.

Remove the cardboard cover, and install a quality aftermarket shifter, with the instructions that are included with. (We recommend Pro 5.0, and Hurst)
A new driveshaft will need to be made using new u joints, and measuring 46-1/2" from center of U-joint to center of U-joint.
Install driveshaft into tail, and then to rear-end tightening the u-bolts snugly.
Remove fill plug on driver's side of T56 case by using a 3/8" drive ratchet.
Purchase a fluid pump from the local auto parts store to fill tranny.
Fill with quality synthetic fluid, such as Redline, or AmsOil, until the fluid seeps out of plug.
Reinstall fill plug and tighten.
Snap clutch fork onto throughout bearing on pressure plate.

The following instructions are to be done in the engine compartment.

Hydraulic bracket install:

Remove brake master cylinder, hard brake lines, and vacuum booster from firewall.

If you are converting from an auto to manual, you must knock out the 1" plug in the firewall. This is found by placing the clutch bracket over the booster studs (4) and looking through the oval portion of the angled bracket (this should be on the bottom.)

Manual cars should remove the Z bar, and all related clutch pieces at this time.
Slide clutch bracket over booster studs (4) with angled portion facing down.
Start 2 nuts diagonal from each other by hand, but do not tighten with a wrench.

Underdash pedal install:

This is easiest with the drivers seat removed.

These steps only apply to automatic cars

Remove clip from brake pedal, remove brake switch, and slide pedal out from driver's side.

You will need to purchase a clutch/brake pedal setup from a Camaro wherehouse. I use Classic Industries at 1-800-854-1280. Part numbers are as follows:

Clutch/brake pedal: includes 2 pedals, 4 bushings and new retainer clip

C681---- $65.50 set

Manual trans brake pedal pad: pad for disc brake equipped cars

C62---- $10.95

Manual trans clutch pedal pad: pad for clutch pedal

K981---- $4.95

Pedal pad trim: Metal trim surrounding pads (x2)

K911----$4.95 each (x2)

Assemble the new pedals with the supplied bushings, so they are ready to hang under the dash.
Slide the pedals in, brake first, from driver's side to pass side, and secure with new retaining clip.

Hydraulic actuator installation

Under the car, install actuator bracket onto studs.
Now remove plastic shipping strap from the actuator rod, and insert into clutch fork pocket.
On braided hose is a clip, slide the clip over the top stud on the bracket, and start the 2 nuts.
Tighten snugly (not too tight, it is plastic) and put actuator rod up through the engine compartment.
Now slide actuator pushrod through the oval hole in the bracket, and past the fire wall toward the pedals.
Secure actuator to bracket with the 2 bolts provided.
Under dash, secure rod end to hole on clutch pedal with the special bolt and nut.
Test clutch travel with your hand on the pedal. It should go smoothly with no binding or sweeping. If it does not, STOP. Check the installation, and try again.
Clutch actuator is now set up.

Finishing the installation:

Mount clutch reservoir to firewall with two screws.
Remove the two nuts on the hydraulic bracket, and install brake booster with the 4 nuts. Tighten.
Reinstall brake master cylinder to booster, and all removed brake lines.
Bleed brakes. Fill brake master with DOT 4 brake fluid, and bleed the fittings at each wheel in this order:

Passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, driver front. Be sure to check fluid level often. When the pedal is firm top off fluid and secure cover on brake master.

Reinstall carpet, cutting around the shifter base with a knife.
Reinstall drivers seat.
Install shift boot to floor, then shift knob and jamb nut.
TAKE OUT FOR A SPIN!!!!!

NOTE: I do not use the reverse lock out solenoid due to the fact that it can be overridden under 5mph. I also use an electric speedometer, instead of the expensive tail shaft conversion, or box converter. These wiring tasks are up to you on how they will be taken care of.

Click here for a FAQ if you have any questions after reading this