65 GTO power windows wiring

[crustysack]

I have installed power windows and the fronts are slow to go up, the alignment seems fine so I will assume the motors are under powered. I am running a 4 way window switch located in my center console, this is powered directly thru the fuse box. I feel I need to add a relay (relays?)to get more power to the motor, my question is can I run just 1 30 amp relay to power the window switch or do I need to run 2 relays per window motor ?
It seems that all diagrams online point to 2 relays per motor does anyone have any pics of relay set up for power windows in an older muscle car?

[pontiaction]

I think this thread should help you
http://transamcountry.com/community/...?topic=50413.0

[CapSS92]

What brand are you using? I used Electric Life on my 65 Chevelle HT and I had the same problem and I was using relays and direct power. They go down great but going up is always an issue. I learned to live with it after I got tired of messing with it. I installed an Electric Life set of my buddy's 55 sedan and his work fine. Go figure.

[dhutton]

I don't quite understand how a relay will help unless you are assuming a drop across the switch. Larger wire would probably get you an improvement since most of the drop is likely across the wire.

[MuscleRodz]

the problem is the harness and motors. They use aftermaket motors which are weak to begin with. Also their harness wires are too small to carry the amperage they require. Relays help bypass the harness issue, but do not fix the motors. it will also depend on the vehicle and regulator design as to how much load it requires to move the window up and down.

[esenior]

I have a set of Electric Life Power Windows on my 69 Camaro and don't have any problems. Windows go up and down fairly quickly.

I initially tried using the AutoLoc WC1000 window modules, but don't recommend going this route. Tried 4 different units and none of them worked as advertised.

I ended up using 2 relays for the power window and 1 for my door popper and just run a single heavy gauge wire into the door. I would highly recommend going this route instead of trying to run all of that power through the standard harness, not to mention the switch.

Here's my wiring diagram (Click for larger image):