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    Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 LastLast
    Results 81 to 100 of 167
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Lake Ontario, NY
      Posts
      1,499


      Skip


    2. #82
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,433
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow! That is nice work!! I was a little skeptical about the rectangle shape but it looks like that should work well.
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Posts
      191
      Chris - you guys are rockin it down there- I LOVE the product development

      trans tunnel looks awesome!

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Oxnard, CA
      Posts
      446

      Rear Spoiler

      This weeks update is rear spoiler.. We almost got it done.. few more things to weld.. then we need to eliminate the key hole & move the gas cap hole to the center of the tail panel.. Tail lights!! I got an idea..






      T-shirt concept!


    5. #85
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Oxnard, CA
      Posts
      446

      Engine in car!!

      All week we have been finishing some welding last fab work on the stretch.. so were ready for the motor & trans to start the exhaust & plumbing..

      I also installed my rear tires so that we can see how the stretch & the car looks on the ground..
















    6. #86
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Lake Ontario, NY
      Posts
      1,499
      The widening is so well integrated you could imagine this to be a rare factory racer getting updated to have at it again.
      Skip

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Absolutely love it!
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    8. #88
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Posts
      17
      Quote Originally Posted by Cris G View Post
      Here is a pic of a stock floor with no sub-connectors.. one of the weakness of a first gen Camaro is that the center of the floor has no bracing to really help body flex.. They corrected this problem on the 2nd gens..



      Here is something that I am doing to help add stiffness to the center of the car.. This 68 already had DSE sub-frame connectors on it when it arrived @ the shop... so I added a convertible OE factory center stiffening brace that goes from rocker to rocker tied in to the sub-frame connector & a Hotckis bolt on brace.. We still need to finish adding the pcs to the sub-frame connector to rocker.. but I think you guys get the idea.. when done it should give it a triangulated effect on the center of the floor.. I remember this feature on convertibles from my days of restoring first gen Camaros..



      what does that convertible top floor brace weigh? thx, rm

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Posts
      17
      Quote Originally Posted by Cris G View Post
      We got all the stretching & welding done on the front fenders this week.. We still need to get the front inner wells done..







      can you go into a little more detail how you stretched the front fenders? thx, rm

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Very Slick!...I likey
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    11. #91
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sydney, Australia
      Posts
      1,798
      Country Flag: Australia
      Nice job on the centre brace.
      Regards,
      Leigh

      Sydney, Australia
      1971 Firebird 455

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      333
      Forget the polished wagon wheels, those rear 5 spokes and big fat tire look so awesome ! In this day and age of 19's on everything in sight those old school wheels on a modern build are awesome. I know its not the way its gonna be but sure looks nice.

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      Forget the polished wagon wheels, those rear 5 spokes and big fat tire look so awesome ! In this day and age of 19's on everything in sight those old school wheels on a modern build are awesome. I know its not the way its gonna be but sure looks nice.
      X2 on that! That stance is awesome... Bring back the sidewall!

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Oxnard, CA
      Posts
      446

      Exhaust

      We are off to a good start on the exhaust.. I wanted the exhaust to tuck under the sub-frame & transmission support that we were using before was not helping us.. so we ended up using the x-member brace as a transmission support with a few modification to the floor..


    15. #95
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks good under there Cris......like the reworked crossmember. Is it heavy, or does it work out to be about the same weight?
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    16. #96
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Oxnard, CA
      Posts
      446
      Thanks John! The weight is pretty close to the stock trans support.. If it adds wieght it is all low which is good... Trying to keep the everything under the frame rails so that we can run the car as low as possible..


      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      Looks good under there Cris......like the reworked crossmember. Is it heavy, or does it work out to be about the same weight?

    17. #97
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      BTW, whose bell is that...looks alot like my McLeod modular piece.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    18. #98
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Mountain View, CA
      Posts
      9,583
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Cris G View Post
      Could you go over the process for the exhaust reliefs there? I'm considering doing something similar on mine and have been wondering how do do it cleanly.
      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


      Follow my wisecracks on Sports, Food, Politics and other BS on Twitter.

      My blog

      When they kick out your front door, How you gonna come?
      With your hands on your head, Or on the trigger of your gun?

    19. #99
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      oshawa ontario
      Posts
      1,607
      Country Flag: Canada
      You're going to need some serious insulation on that dry sump tank.....its basically the same as touching your oil pan after a hard run.....a (my) Nascar's dry sump tank is located right behind the driver and has the floor pan cut out right below the tank to allow for air circulation and give the oil somewhere to go if there is a leak.
      Nascar 69 Chevelle project, 1999 Hutch Pagan Nascar chassis, 69 Chevelle body,700hp, Penske's, slicks, roadrace track day https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...le-Cup-project
      89 Iroc 406 Fitech 5 spd
      01 chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1 Allison
      31 Scarab 2 x 454

    20. #100
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Oxnard, CA
      Posts
      446
      It is a Mcleod bell housing..

      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      BTW, whose bell is that...looks alot like my McLeod modular piece.
      We are going to try to come as close as we can to the rear view on the rendering.. We bought some tips from Pypes that we will be modifying to get us as close as we can.. give me a few weeks & I will have it done so that you can see if you want to go that route..

      Quote Originally Posted by Damn True View Post
      Could you go over the process for the exhaust reliefs there? I'm considering doing something similar on mine and have been wondering how do do it cleanly.
      Thanks for the advise.. I will take it into consideration..

      Quote Originally Posted by shortrack View Post
      You're going to need some serious insulation on that dry sump tank.....its basically the same as touching your oil pan after a hard run.....a (my) Nascar's dry sump tank is located right behind the driver and has the floor pan cut out right below the tank to allow for air circulation and give the oil somewhere to go if there is a leak.

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