Enclosed Trailers - What to look for and what to avoid?

I've been looking for a decent enclosed trailer for awhile now since I have always had to borrow or rent one. I like the security of having a way home though I admire the guys who always drive (Michael Tucker!). I'm looking for an enclosed trailer because I'm going to use it to store my wife's 4 wheeler and the lawn mower to get them out of my garage so my wife can park her Tahoe back in the garage and so we can transport the mower easily since we help out the family by cutting grass for them. Then use it to bring my car out (and possibly the 4 wheeler) to ASCS events and track days.

Long story short, my wife found a 24x8 enclosed trailer that is fully finished, rubber floor, wide side door, cabinets in the front and a full width work bench for a great price because it is a brand new 2011 model year left over that was special ordered but it was hail damaged before the buyer could pick it up. I can get it for less than half the original price because the lot wants to move it quick. Is there anything I need to make sure it has or anything I need to avoid? I have never owned an enclosed trailer but I am no stranger to towing or brake controls having owned a 30ft camper for several years. I'd appreciate any opinions y'all can share!

I'm about to pull the trigger on a deal for a new one also. 8.5 x 24 V nose. From what I have been told, you need to have significant enough truck to pull it but you already pull that camper so you should be good. What does the camper weigh and what are you gonna be pulling it with? I didn't notice when I was there near you. After having to rent a trailer, the wife told me to get one even tho I don't really need it right now. But I'm gonna get it and pay it off while I'm deployed.

I'll be pulling it with the truck 99% of the time. My wife and I talked about my being able to trailer the car and setup sleeping quarters in the front of the trailer similar to what Sparky is doing with his converted U-Haul. That way if she doesn't want to come I can still be self enclosed. I'll have to figure out something for heat and/or A/C but that's not a deal breaker if I decide to go that route. I've got the $$$ right now so I'll be paying cash (it's a nice feeling to be able to do that once in awhile!). The other 1% my wife will be using it to transport her 4 wheeler or the lawn mower - as long as the camper itself doesn't weigh more than her Tahoe can pull she should be good to go pulling it the short distance out to her Grandma's house (less than 10 mi).

I would check the axle rating I think 3500 and 5200 gvwr If you plan to haul cars I would go with the 5200, I also think that the torsion axle setup pulls better compared to the regular straight axle, I guess you could say independent suspension compared to straight axle in a car, does it have tie downs in the floor, I would look to see if they go through a cross member or just through the plywood floor, Trailer brakes on axles? v nose is nice I think it gives you a extra room, They are both like pulling a box down the highway, don't think v nose makes any difference in mileage, except to the salesman selling it to you, I paid 8g for a v nose 24 ft about 5 years ago, you can't go wrong if the price is right,

I would go with the 5200 lb axles as well, too easy to get to the load limit with 3500 lb axles (especially if you add any sort of living quarters). I have 5200s on my 28 ft v-nose Horton Hauler, along with torsion axles, pulls very nice.

When looking at trailers, check out the construction and welds too. I have seen cheaper trailers with partial welds and wide crossmember spacing. I guess they have to cut costs somewhere to get the price down.

This is personal preference but I would never have an enclosed without a winch and generator, an air supply is also very useful. I have heat and a/c but rarely use it. The one thing I wish I had were lights in the floor for night loading.

It's got 7000 lbs axles with a total rated GVWR of 14,000. It already has torsion axles too. I know I want to wire some lights if it doesn't already have them (haven't seen pictures yet). I'm waiting to get pictures send to my cell right now. It's a Horton Hauler Heritage Edition. I'll post a couple pictures when I get them. I doubt I'll heat or cool it unless I end up using it for a "toy hauler camper" instead of hauling my camper separately. We'll see...I should have pictures in an hour or two.

The lot just posted an ad with pictures and a description:

NEW OLD STOCK - 3 YEAR FACTORY WARRANTY -- 2010 YEAR MODEL

LOADED -- LOADED -- LOADED

BLACK HD VINYL FLOOR COVERING (FLOOR AND RAMP)

22 HEAVY DUTY FLOOR MOUNTED D-RINGS

14 WALL MOUNTED D-RINGS

LUAN CEILING WITH TWO (2) 4' TUBE 120V LIGHT FIXTURES

ALUMINUM OVERHEAD 4 DOOR CABINET ON FRONT WALL

ALUMINUM WORK BENCH UNDER OVERHEAD CABINETS

120V - 40 AMP ELECTRICAL PANEL BOX

TWO INTERIOR AND TWO EXTERIOR 120V RECEPTICALS

16" ON CENTER WALL STUDS AND FLOOR CROSS MEMBERS

TWO (2) 7,000 LB DEXTER TORFLEX EZ LUBE AXLES (14,000 LB GVWR)

215/80R16" TIRES (ALSO INCLUDES FRONT MOUNTED SPARE)

PAYLOAD RATING 9,160 LBS

WILL HAUL 10 MEDIUM SIZED MOTORCYCLES OR A SMALL ARMY TANK

EXCELLENT FOR A MULTITUDE OF USES

Its wired and lit with two florescent lights, overhead vent, wide side door, cabinets, work bench, rubber floor, etc. It sure seems like a great deal so I just bought it. I'm going to pick it up Thursday evening. :)

Make sure you have two spares (I have 3 for mine). If one tire blows, the remaining tire either 1) ran over the same thing the flat tire did or 2) became overloaded/damaged when it had to do the work of 2 tires.

Every time I've blown a tire on my trailer, the other tire on that side went pretty soon after or had a bulge in sidewall... and I use load range D or E tires and age them out before I wear them out.

I guess towing @ 75 mph probably doesn't help.

Class IV hitch with load leveler bars and making sure the hitch is the correct height so the rear tires are loaded the same, will pay off for thousands of miles.

I'm looking at a Titan trailer. 8.5 x 24 V nose. The difference between the 3500 and 5200 pound axels is only about $400 in price but have to wait 2 weeks for one. I think I will wait for the ****** axel trailer after reading all of this advise. The smaller axeled trailer will haul 7000 pounds versus 10000 pounds on the one with 5200 pound axels.

Damn autocorrect made me look foolish. Not advise but advice.

sending you a pm Geoff

Yah Brian I'd get the heavier axles and see if they can be upgraded to torsion axles. I already have a load distributing hitch for my truck (2003 2500 HD). I can probably get additional load arms and brackets if I find the trailer needs load and sway control.

Sparky - thanks for the suggestion(s)! :)