pinion yoke, 1310 or 1330??

Currently have a 12 bolts with a 1310 pinion yoke. Motor should be around 500hp at the crank. Do I need to upgrade to a 1330?

Auto or stick? Auto, not really.

Stick, if you like to side step the clutch yes. If you take it easy no. I have a 496 living in front of a stock t56 and 1310 12 bolt. It will take a lot of abuse. With that said, when I go through there again I will upgrade just in case.

Like Tim said. Unless you are really beating on the car AND hooking all of that power, you shouldn't have a problem. I am going 1350's on my Bad Ast build just because it is all brand new anyway but, in your case, not really necessary.
Mark

I would say no as well. Maybe if your car was really heavy and you were launching on slicks.

Since I'm in the same boat as the OP, I hope he doesn't mind if I do a highjack instead of starting a new thread...

I have a 3,300# Javelin, 500 at the crank, T-10, Speedway Engineering full floater 9". Some street use, but mainly track car (NASA American Iron). Ordering a center section and figure 1330 should be strong enough. Guess the only drawback would be the extra weight of the 1330, but can't imagine that extra weight would be a reason to use a 1310 that might not live.

Your thoughts?

Scott

Nascar uses a 1310, the reason is weight. Rotational mass is equivalent to about 6 times a static mass. I run a 1310 in my drag mustang. 2800lbs and 10.5" slick, launching at 5500rpm with a clutch; no issues at all and that is with the front wheels off the ground.

Spoke with one of the techs at Randy's Ring and Pinion. He recommended a 1350 u joint. Said that if I wanted to use a 1310 u joint and a Daytona pinion support that I would have to use a cast yoke. If I went with the 1350, I can use a billet or forged yoke.

Scott