68 Camaro performance rear suspension question

Hi there, im in need of sum advice and opinions from folks out there who have already gone thru this and know the products. Currently working on my first pro-touring car, a car my father and I got years ago together a 1968 Chevy Camaro. So far have repaired the cars body, replaced and gapped most the sheetmetal, had the shell media blasted to bare metal and sealed in epoxy, have smoothed out the factory firewall but will run a vintage air a/c bulkhead with its lines tucked under the passenger fender as the car is a factory air car. Replaced the front subframe with a new stock replacement, but added heidts upper and lower tubular control arms, 2 inch drop spindles, stock coil springs, edelbrock IAS shocks, heidts sway bar, and rack and pinion steering all in the front. NOW my question folks is REAR SUSPENSION?? I want something that is going to offer great performance and not totally wipe out the bank account. Not THAT serious of a race car to tub it out just a nice performance car that will be cruised around in. I still have the orginal 10 bolt mono rear end it came with. Any opinions on rebuilding that, using Detroit Speed mono-multi leaf hardware and running a pair of there 2 inch drop leaf springs? I actually already have rear edelbrock shocks and a hotchkis sway bar for that setup. My biggest concern about it all is getting that PERFECT stance. The other route ive been researching is the Heidts 4 link setup, although have really not seen much about them from other people running them so im a bit skeptical especially given the overall amount of money that wud require after you get the 4 link, axle housing, axles, 3rd member, brakes your looking at near 4-5 grand in a bolt in 4 link rear end. For wheels im looking at a nice dark charcoal wheel like a 5 spoke torque thrust, or rocket racing, thinking 17x7 front and 17x8 in the rear with sum sport BFGs. Anybody out there have a opinion on which route to take here? Im at a point where its time to get this old girl back on the ground under her new suspension with wheels and tires. Question is what rear end setup shud I purchase.

We offer the most well-balanced, easy to install rear suspension available for the 1st & 2nd generation Camaro/Firebirds. Using our proven track record in torque arm development and application we developed a torque arm conversion kit that brings modern suspension technology to these cars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/image...ckground-1.jpg

Here is a VERY informative tech article written by our R&D manager explaining what it does:
Torque Arm Suspension Systems - Chevy High Performance Magazine

The guys at V8TV recently shot a great install and results video of our kit on a customers 71 Firebird:
1971 Pontiac Firebird BMR Torque Arm & Baer Brakes Install Video V8TV - YouTube

Here is a video of a customer who got 2nd place in Street Machine Class at Kansas Good Guys last Summer. He was running air over shocks built for ride quality not performance and had not adjusted the roll center via Watt’s Link….. he should be able to cut some major time off just by addressing these issues.

Camaro Autocross Kansas City 5 - YouTube


Here is a install article that Super Chevy did a few years back:
BMR Rear Suspension Install - Strong Arm - Super Chevy Magazine



We offer a Torque Arm kit for the stock GM 10 & 12 bolt rear differentials and a kit for guys who want a Ford 9". The Ford 9” kit includes a bare Strange housing for $600 more than the 10 & 12 bolt kits. Take a look at the link below detailing an install that a Pro-Touring member completed with our Ford 9 in. kit in his 1973 Firebird:

BMR Torque Arm Installed on my 73 Firebird - Page 2


The owner of the 73 Firebird made the following comments to us:

“I've put 4000 miles on it and drive it at every possible opportunity. No track time yet due to other commitments but there is always this spring. I still have to play with the shock settings to soften up the launch, it is just incredible how the car reacts from the factory setup. The rear stays planted no matter if it's in the corners or straights. I've had ZERO issues with the entire setup, I'm EXTREMELY HAPPY with it. I hope to get some auto-x & road course time this spring.”

I still can't thank you all there enough for everything, the kit really changed the car into a ride that I truly enjoy driving.”


Our entire 67-69 suspension system was recently showcased on Two Guys Garage as well:

BMR Suspension Torque Installation on Two Guys Garage EXTENDED CUT - YouTube

on the leafs...the quick and dirty way is just get some hotchkis leafs (3 inch drops) with their swivel bearing kit for the front of the leaf, use the Detroit Speed mono-multi leaf hardware and sway bar you already have.....just do yourself a favor THROW AWAY the edelbrock shocks...please... Please.... a good shock is the best investment for your suspension you can make, I have used MANY! shocks (I work at a Speed Shop) and that was the worst shock I have ever used on my car with performance leafs

on the Diff. the 10 bolt is fine just get a good posi unit

heres a picture of mine from this weekend
https://static1.pt-content.com/image...b84a559f-1.jpg

Hey Ty!

I would recommend a 1.5" lowering leaf to compliment the 2" front drop (more on this in a sec.) you already have; with a 2" drop in the front and a 1.5" drop in the back the car will sit level when the same size tires are used front and rear.

Now, for the more-in-a-sec bit. Am I correct in assuming the drop spindles you have are a "stock style"? If they are I would advise you to not use them; stock-style drop spindles are a bit of a No-No on 1st Gen Camaros. Reason being when the hub is moved upwards on the spindle the steering arm and outer tie rod remain in the factory location and this can cause interference between the tie rod and wheel/tire, you can read more about this on Pozziracing.com If you still have the factory spindle I would suggest running it with a lowering spring instead, be-it our 2" drop spring (link is to our SBC 2" spring) or someone else's. This will give you more clearance to run a larger backspacing on the wheel and thus more tire up front. Not to mention the added spring rate that a lowering spring will have which is always a good idea when you reduce the car's suspension travel.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Not sure what sort of stance you are looking for. My 68 is equipped with a DSE subframe, subframe connectors and mini-tubs. Out back I'm running a Moser 9" floater with Chassisworks 4 link with Vari-shock double adjustable shocks at all four corners. Here are a couple of pics.

Attachment 81355

Curious as to what led you to use a rack and pinion steering system in that car?