| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You will have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
11-02-2009, 11:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Droop stops Anyone?
Dont think using my new coil overs as droop stops is a good Idea anyone using something for a droop stop? Off road guys use wide nylon straps but that would look cheesy......
__________________
Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue.. Follow my 3 link build. http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61592 
|
|
#2
11-03-2009, 05:16 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Another thing to remember is that the offroad guys occasionally get airborne(sometimes on purpose)....PT folks spend alot of effort keeping air out from under the vehicle.
On my 70 camaro, the factory uses the shocks in the rear suspension as the droop stops...probably not the best treatment for the seals in the shocks...but that was how the factory did it. As for the front of my car, they had rubber stops that limited the suspension parts from colliding with the subframe at full droop and when fully compressed....but my after market arms don't include these full droop stops. I'm curious too what you guys come up with for this...
__________________
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock: 89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17. Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454 All is bolted up and has been test fitted with the exception of a driveshaft....motor is back out and being refreshed.
|
|
#3
11-03-2009, 05:38 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
As John says, droop stops aren't that important. The only thing I worried about on II Much was to make sure the coilover springs didn't fall out of position with the shocks fully extended.
I used helper springs and spring seat guides to solve that problem. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product jp
|
|
#4
11-03-2009, 05:59 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
i built in a droop limiter into my front suspension. It is a stainless steel cable. Im on my phone on my way to SEMA so take a look at my motortopia page. But my afco shocks can be used as a droop limiter.
__________________
Bryce http://65falconengineer.blogspot.com/ http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58842
|
|
#5
11-03-2009, 07:37 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Which UCA's are you using? Factory and a lot of aftermarket have a snubber under the cross bracing. I know the SPC arms do not have that. Most others should.
__________________
Nick R. 69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic 08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now "When the people fear the government, that is tyranny. When the government fears the people, that is liberty"
|
|
#6
11-04-2009, 05:38 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Check out this thread:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295167 Post four shows an interesting idea for the SPC arms. Jon
__________________
Jon U. 1968 GTO - SC&C's Street Comp AFX suspension, Forgeline SO3 wheels from Prodigy Customs and Sparco seats from Motor Sport Seats  Build Thread Last edited by Roadbuster; 11-04-2009 at 05:39 PM.. Reason: wrong post number!
|
|
#7
11-04-2009, 07:35 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
For a street car I dont think straps are needed. Rarely do we lift the front end so fast and severely that the shock of a coilover is gonna take any abuse. And with a coilover you dont have to worry about the spring dropping out of its perch. So I think they arent needed.
Contact the manufacture of the coilover, they may have a small rubber snubber in the shock for both ends of travel. I wouldnt be surprised. A shock manufacture doesnt want his shock bottoming out metal to metal. JR
|
|
#8
11-06-2009, 11:17 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The reason why I use them in my offroad truck is the shocks themselves do not have internal bumps/stops to stop the shock shaft from going through the cap. This is on a shock that is greater then 2.0's and have more then 10" of travel..Most of our cars may see 4"
__________________
1970 NOVA..Ls2/Tko..Speedtech/Chicayne, Alston Glink
|
|
#9
11-06-2009, 08:54 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I was talking rear but all the info is relevant to a street car so thanks... But what if I want to jump that old washed out bridge to escape the law.... HHHMMM>
__________________
Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue.. Follow my 3 link build. http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61592
|
|
#10
11-07-2009, 06:00 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
 Now.... If you are running low on a few jugs of shine then yer rear is gonna be light. My advice??? Dont go out with half a load of shine, keep the a$$ end loaded down. Sweet!!! When are you gonna make another run to the west coast. Im down to my last jug.... LOL What came first, shine runners or nascar???? JR
|
|
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
Linear Mode
|
|
