350z rearend/ 67 camaro

[overZealous1]

just a warning, with my schedule i work like molasses on this car, but will keep up with it and pics!

decided to do a 350z rear in my car. it is constructed very modular with nearly everything bolting to the 350z alum. subframe. a set of coilovers will eliminate the rear spring pockets needed to run stock 350z springs.

luckily since there is so many 350z/g35's out there now, parts are getting cheap!! flange to flange width on them is 63.4" for those wondering.

$700- complete rear suspension/subframe, brakes, wheel sensors, well just the whole dam thing! is missing lower camber bars, thats it.
$100- adjustable rod end camber bars
$60- billet alum wheel adapters 4.5-4.75
$150- smoking deal on just 2 rear stance pro fully adjustable coilovers. normally a $700 pair.

so, minus the driveshaft (which i would need to build one anyways) i am in it a touch over $1000 for my hard parts. my time is free, metal materials will be nominal. try to get even a decent solid rear for that let alone a 4 link, watts link or whatever else you choose along with it!
found these deals in only 48 hours of searching also. picking up rear tomorrow, rest of parts here in a week or so.

[astroracer]

63.4 seems pretty wide for a '67... you said "flange to flange" is that what you meant or is that over the rotors? Killer deal though. If you make up for it in back spacing I guess it would work.
I'll have about 2K into my 9" and 4 link. I am running about 61" over the rotors for the van. That is with a 7" back spacing on the 18 x 12's.
Mark

[overZealous1]

i am going to run 20x13 with 9.5"bs. i will also need 1.25" billet adapters to change from the 4.5 to 4.75 of my wheels, so actual bs will be 8.25". it should work out perfect to do just a 2" flare each side. will be super close to not needing to minitub, but i will anyways so i have plenty of room.

the fastest time i have seen on a stock 350z rear is an 8.90. they also make different level axles, up to 1000hp. so they are definately a strong choice too. cant wait to start setting this thing up!

[astroracer]

Be sure to post up some pics after you get it home...

[overZealous1]

here it is. even got him to toss in the driveshaft for free, lol. will need it later for the correct driveshaft connection. total width with wheels is 74.25". the width of the front mounts is the same as the stock frame rails, sooooooooo..... stock rails gone. shock/coilover mounts is such that my deep offset wheel may hit the coilover, but i can cant the coilover to miss them. the e-brake cable i also nabbed. should not be to hard to retro that in also. i forgot the autos and manuals had different ratios. this was out of an auto so 3.3 it is. manuals were 3.5. running a viper t56 with twin turbo ls2, so it will have plenty of power to pull through it. also has the viscous limited slip. tires are 345/25/20 at 26" tall.

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[exwestracer]

NICE! Boy, you are getting your money's worth out of that track width!

[overZealous1]

looks so dam pretty out of the car! it all polishes up easy too! the stock brakes look like little tea cup saucers in those wheels though.

[Greasy63]

OMFGarsh!!!:yum:

I'm subscribed forsure:firefire:

Good Luck!

[grenade inspector]

great find and a unique approach!!! I'll have to keep an eye on this as I've been looking for a good irs solution for my '67

[NJSPEEDER]

Dat's a lotta wheel.

Very cool idea. How much torque is the stock set up rated for?

[overZealous1]

i have personally run 600rwhp through a stock Z rear. never put slicks on it, but have seen it take the abuse of a high 9 second quarter mile with slicks. nearly every piece can be upgraded and poly or rod end bushings available for every part. even the subframe mounts themselves can be had in poly or solid.
main part to replace is wheel studs. very weak from nissan. i have broken some before.

[overZealous1]

picked up some 3x2 .95 wall rect. tubing today. fab will start tomorrow!

[robertjra]

picked up some 3x2 .95 wall rect. tubing today. fab will start tomorrow!

sweet love this stuff!!!! keep it up

[Apogee]

Man, you are sick in the head...I like it! Very cool idea and nice to see someone thinking waaaaaayyyyy outside the box. If you can't "cant" the coilovers enough for clearance purposes, maybe you could convert to a pushrod setup and inboard the shocks. Just curious, but is the pinion flange on the 350Z a 1300-series u-joint or a metric setup like the Toyota's?

Tobin
KORE3

[overZealous1]

hey tobin, i am seriously considering a pushrod set up for the cool factor. problem is, it will never be seen and havn't come up with a way to seal the cabin or trunk area, and make the coilovers serviceable. i'm sure i can figure a way, but will it be worth it?
the stock Z ujoints are not serviceable i hear. i will have to take a closer look at the set up soon. i'm sure a solution can be found. the driveshaft is carbon fiber, so hoping it is long enough to cut the front off and do an insert with a 1350 and the t56 yoke on it.
if my imagination keeps running, i may be selling off my front suspension (the Z06 brakes i got from you!) and just do a full dam chassis and fab my own front too. give me a chance to move the motor back also. ;)
yes, there is a reason for my screen name. i go for an inch, and end up going the whole dam mile!

[overZealous1]

fyi- i looked on portland craigslist and someone has a complete 350z rear like i got for $600! 900hp axles for $1200 on there too!

[csouth]

This is definitely out of the box. The creativity of some guys on the this forum amazes me.

[Nessumsar]

I gotta say Vinny, I really like where this is going. Is the 63.4" the WMS width?

Subscribed.

[overZealous1]

that is the width from where the wheels will mount with rotors on.

[overZealous1]

well, waiting on some adjustable front traction links to get alignment set, but pretty much ready to get the rails started. shipping times have been killing me! wood blocks have it sitting at installed height. made the rear spring bucket delete links myself. all lower links are rod ends and adjustable. every aspect is adjustable. toe, camber, and now caster too. will have to keep a close watch on final computer alignment guy so he doesn't eff it up! little do-hicky on top of coilovers is for shock adjustment.

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[overZealous1]

for those who noticed, i will swap the tires to the correct sides before driving, ha

[Gitter Dun]

So it all begins........very cool. I wonder which one of us is going to be channeling first. Or are you headed a different direction with the possibility of a full frame?

[exwestracer]

I'd definitely tie those coilover top plates directly into the cage. Not much in that area of a first gen to take that kind of load. Looks like a good start on getting rid of the coil buckets.

[SRDzuess4u]

Vinny,

very very cool, all things being considered....once done the rear view of this car will be re-donkulous, once diled in should track like a beast too....keep us posted.

[overZealous1]

So it all begins........very cool. I wonder which one of us is going to be channeling first. Or are you headed a different direction with the possibility of a full frame?

will be keeping most of the front subframe. cutting it off and splicing near the pedals. would like to do the front custom also, but i am so far from the car being done i just want to get it to a roller. all my front suspension is aftermarket already, so i don't feel i am giving up much. i can toy with front suspension height with more or less channel depth to try to match roll centers front and rear.
trying to set the body at 3.5" off the ground. bottom of car will be flushed out and may run my exhaust down inside of the rockers and exit in front or rear tires. either that or just right behind the front tires. turbo's will quite it down abit, just suck to do all the fab and be blown out of the car when it finally fires up. exhaust pouring into the side windows has me worried too when at a stop and windows rolled down.

[overZealous1]

I'd definitely tie those coilover top plates directly into the cage. Not much in that area of a first gen to take that kind of load. Looks like a good start on getting rid of the coil buckets.


for sure. i am going to have some cross members at the mounts, so was thinking possibly doing a pushrod/rocker set up and laying them flat. i just don't see a way to keep the interior sealed though, and making parts easily accessible.

[overZealous1]

Vinny,

very very cool, all things being considered....once done the rear view of this car will be re-donkulous, once diled in should track like a beast too....keep us posted.

no donk! lol. here is a shot of the front right now. body will come down another 3"!! but, will be raising suspension height back up about 1.5" to correct my hideous a-arm angles right now. so, body will effectively be 1.5" lower over the wheels than this pic. that will be tucking all the tire, and about 1.5" of wheel. rear will be very similar. frame rails will get a 1/4" strip of teflon on the bottoms to help me "slide" right over stuff ;)
still gotta flare the whole car, but this is first.

[overZealous1]

ahhh, forgot the pic, lol

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[CliffsBlueCamaro]

Wow, this is awesome!

[exwestracer]

Look at attaching the "top" of the coilovers to the aluminum cradle near the rear bolts for the upper arms, then angle the shocks slightly upward, and mount the rocker pivots to the new frame rails. The shocks would be right over the diff, and might fit under the stock floor.

Something like this, imagining the diff right under where the shocks "X"...
51840

[Apogee]

Do your brain cells a favor and route the exhaust at least to in front of the rear tire...I don't know how many you have to spare, but I need to try and coddle each and every one I have left ;)

I'm liking the criss-cross coilovers Ray pictured above. Sealing it up could be tough, but not impossible. I would think you could get creative with some floating wiper type seals or a couple of overlapping single-lip types in succession, one high and one low...neither by itself would be that great, but together they could seal out most of the elements.

[overZealous1]

i am mostly worried about road noise. trying to keep the car as quite as possible. if i did run them low like that and in that area, it would not take up much trunk space. i was worried about serviceability of needing to get to them again though, but remembered the whole reason i chose this rear end. 4 bolts and the whole assembly is out! i will get it in and see how it lays out.

ray, where would a guy purchase those rockers? i have looked and didn't come up with anything.

on second thought, with the pillow ball top on the existing coilovers, i would probably need to make something i guess.

[exwestracer]

ray, where would a guy purchase those rockers? i have looked and didn't come up with anything.

on second thought, with the pillow ball top on the existing coilovers, i would probably need to make something i guess.

Yeah, you'll probably have to build them. If you didn't have those fancy remote adjusters on top, I'd suggest threading a female Heim right on the stud....

[overZealous1]

Do your brain cells a favor and route the exhaust at least to in front of the rear tire...I don't know how many you have to spare, but I need to try and coddle each and every one I have left ;)

I'm liking the criss-cross coilovers Ray pictured above. Sealing it up could be tough, but not impossible. I would think you could get creative with some floating wiper type seals or a couple of overlapping single-lip types in succession, one high and one low...neither by itself would be that great, but together they could seal out most of the elements.

i'm hoping i can stuff a 3" tube down the factory rocker. i was thinking about just using the rocker itself, the odd angles would give abit of sound cancelation, but heat soak would be a problem with carpet! i will investigate more. a tube i could ceramic coat first. help abit, especially if i vented the rocker front and rear and got some air running through it. the cage will tie into rockers, and rockers into new frame rails, so not too worried about a few holes in them.

[Gitter Dun]

will be keeping most of the front subframe. cutting it off and splicing near the pedals. would like to do the front custom also, but i am so far from the car being done i just want to get it to a roller. all my front suspension is aftermarket already, so i don't feel i am giving up much. i can toy with front suspension height with more or less channel depth to try to match roll centers front and rear.
trying to set the body at 3.5" off the ground. bottom of car will be flushed out and may run my exhaust down inside of the rockers and exit in front or rear tires. either that or just right behind the front tires. turbo's will quite it down abit, just suck to do all the fab and be blown out of the car when it finally fires up. exhaust pouring into the side windows has me worried too when at a stop and windows rolled down.

I literally just got back from the shop where my car will be getting the work done. I am just shooting for 2". Raising the subframe up into the body is no big deal but the trans tunnel will have to be raised along with making room for the collectors and exhaust. The more we thought about it the closer we came to the conclusion of just raising the whole floor. I missed alot of track time last season because of upgrades so this maybe contingent on how long this will take(due to their current work load) and may have to save this work for next winter. We'll see how it goes after I talk to them again tomorrow..

[overZealous1]

ya, one part of the car i wanted to keep for nostalgia reasons was the factory console. i already had to raise trans tunnel 1". another 3" pretty much knocks that idea out!

raising the whole floor might get abit complicated. if your just going 2", some channels would be easier. there is also the steering column to think about. you could see if some oval tubing could fit down the trans tunnel?

[Hotwhilz]

Very interesting thread! Creativity is awesome, I had the same Idea about running BMW rear complete rear end because of the availabilities of parts across the pond. I'll keep an eye on this thread for sure.
I' was going the truck arm route but thing comforted me into the IRS set up again.

Ben

[racedaddy]

Very nice build

[exwestracer]

Very interesting thread! Creativity is awesome, I had the same Idea about running BMW rear complete rear end because of the availabilities of parts across the pond. I'll keep an eye on this thread for sure.
I' was going the truck arm route but thing comforted me into the IRS set up again.

Ben

Ben, IMO... If you're thinking about the flat semi-trailing arm setup out of the earlier BMW 750s, don't... The only good thing about those is the diff. Way too much camber and toe change unless you lock them down with a ton of spring and bar. Basically the same layout as the old 2002 or a Datsun 510...

Scott, if you cut the skin off the rocker box and weld some stand off tabs along there, you maybe could get away with building the exhaust to look like the rocker. Sort of round along the back, and angled on front... Not sure about what you'd have to do once you got past the door post. There's a lot going on back in there....

[overZealous1]

thats an idea good too. or, i could just do side exhaust. square tube outside of the rocker. would widen the car abit and blend in as a rocker. might be a cool look.

[Gitter Dun]

raising the whole floor might get abit complicated. if your just going 2", some channels would be easier. there is also the steering column to think about. you could see if some oval tubing could fit down the trans tunnel?

You could be right. Going to take another look and see. Steering should be OK, I'm running a rack-n-pinion.

[go-fish]

Awesome ideas!

[overZealous1]

well had some time today, and managed to get alot of the rear frame done today. finish off the welding and some gussets and a couple more brakets, and she is ready.

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[67zo6Camaro]

Im in. Good stuff going on around here! Been thinking about my next build and this defffff catches my attention.

[MrQuick]

looking great

[Hotwhilz]

Starting to take shape! Suscribed! I'm looking deeper into a E39 rear end, and looks quite close to yours, what are you going to do for the strut support?

[exwestracer]

Normally I'm not a big fan of this, but with that size tire, you might as well just start at the fender lips and cut out a strip all the way across the car... You might be able to weld the back seat bulkhead floor into where you have that crossmember above the pinion. (maybe that's why you put it there?).

IIRC, that was very close to the floor when we did Ryan's 78.

[overZealous1]

Starting to take shape! Suscribed! I'm looking deeper into a E39 rear end, and looks quite close to yours, what are you going to do for the strut support?


will see when it gets under the car. got 2 choices though, either tie into roll cage, or a pushrod/rocker set up and run them across the top of the rear.

[overZealous1]

Normally I'm not a big fan of this, but with that size tire, you might as well just start at the fender lips and cut out a strip all the way across the car... You might be able to weld the back seat bulkhead floor into where you have that crossmember above the pinion. (maybe that's why you put it there?).

IIRC, that was very close to the floor when we did Ryan's 78.

with the cage i am running, a back seat will be super hard to get into, so i'm probably not going to run one. as far as trunk space, i am putting the fuel cell in there. so, i really don't have many constraints in those areas. would rather have the cross members at the mounts than try to save a little floor area.
as far as cutting, i'm just going to put the frame under and start lowering body down. if i measured correctly, the top portion of the rear rails will poke through about 1.5".

[andrewb70]

Neat project!

One thing that I noticed and that concerns me a little bit. The stock springs used to sit inside those cradle that was built into the lower control arms. That lower control arm was designed to support the weight of the car. However, I see the stock lower arm has been replaced by a rod and now there is a coilover attached what I assume is the stock shock attaching point. Is that right?

Andrew

[overZealous1]

that is correct. and that is the correct mounting point used by the 350z for coilovers. alot of guys with 350z's that run coilovers do the same with the rear bucket delete/toe link. ten's of thousands have run it this way, including race cars. it is safe.

[Bryce]

Neat project!

One thing that I noticed and that concerns me a little bit. The stock springs used to sit inside those cradle that was built into the lower control arms. That lower control arm was designed to support the weight of the car. However, I see the stock lower arm has been replaced by a rod and now there is a coilover attached what I assume is the stock shock attaching point. Is that right?

Andrew

Shocks see similar loads as the springs during impulse loading. The limit load of a shock mount as a spring mount would be similar. The fatigue load might be different.

[andrewb70]

I just noticed that it was different so I thought I'd mention it. I am sure that its OK if it has been done before, etc...

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but Bryce, do you think this setup might work well in your Ford or my future Cougar project? It certainly looks like a very reasonably priced and nicely designed rear suspension.

I also think that mounting the shocks in the trunk is a cool idea. It would definitely reduce unsprung weight.

Andrew

[nine lives johnny]

i've had this idea before. if yours works out ill do the same to a tube frame chassis

[Bryce]

I just noticed that it was different so I thought I'd mention it. I am sure that its OK if it has been done before, etc...

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but Bryce, do you think this setup might work well in your Ford or my future Cougar project? It certainly looks like a very reasonably priced and nicely designed rear suspension.

I also think that mounting the shocks in the trunk is a cool idea. It would definitely reduce unsprung weight.

Andrew

Andrew, I am sure it would work well. I dont think it is worth it to me to add all that to my car. I think you would be 90% there with a 3-link and a 9" ford. Also a high power IRS really needs to have traction control. They load and unload opposite tires under hard accleration and firm shifts and it try to drive the car sideways, at least in my past experiences.

[overZealous1]

^ if running crazy alignment settings it can do that. having the tires themselves square to the chassis, and conservative alignment settings can help it track alot straighter. the Z rear has alot of camber gain, and i am running mine 1.5" lower than a stock Z, so it will gain even more since the springs are a higher rate and won't get much movement. so you can run the tires with very little static neg camber.
if you have everything set up correctly, you should be able to dump the clutch on flat ground and the car will track straight while spinning the tires. if it doesn't, something is out of alignment. a rude way of doing it, but a fun way! haha
having already built a 600rwhp 350Z and driving it for years, it was the most predictible car i have ever driven at the limit. tons of confidence in it. i just wish there was room to run the front suspension also. if your not familiar with it, check it out. the spindle curves up and around putting the upper ball joint above the tire, and connects to upper a-arm.

[CruizinKev]

wow looks great!!!

[overZealous1]

thanks kevin.

i will be keeping track of hours also incase anyone is interested. at about 10 so far with swapping out the stock links with adjustable, building rear toe links, and making frame to this point. frame has about 3 more hours left.

[andrewb70]

Andrew, I am sure it would work well. I dont think it is worth it to me to add all that to my car. I think you would be 90% there with a 3-link and a 9" ford. Also a high power IRS really needs to have traction control. They load and unload opposite tires under hard accleration and firm shifts and it try to drive the car sideways, at least in my past experiences.

Scott,

I am sorry if this is hijacking your thread too much, just tell us and I will stop, but it seems like a good time to discuss IRS in general, and your suspension specifically.

My only experience with IRS has only been in my second get RX7. That system was very similar to the 04-06 GTO system. It also very much looked like the 3 series BMW and Porsche 944 systems. No surprise there since the Japanese often take design idea from other makes.

The RX 7, being just a simple swing arm system, suffered from a complete lack of antisquat. Bryce, you can talk better about this, since you are an engineer. The Nissan system uses a double arm design, which I would think has some antisquat geometry built in. My RX7 was a drag car and best launches were achieved by stiffening the rear to limit compression. It was not ideal, but I also realize that IRS is not desirable for drag racing in general.

Andrew

[overZealous1]

well welding the whole thing up is taking some time. decided to gusset the outside of my welds. also, boxed up the rear suspension mount considerably. just need to make front mounts now. about 16 hours in.
ya ya, i'm fairily new at welding, haha. but, it is all tigged so i know for sure i have full penetration. in some areas, a little too much! starting to get it, but my welding doesn't look show quality yet!

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[Gitter Dun]

A little progress is better than none. Thats one thing I need to do is learn how to weld well. I could measure and cut precisely and actually mig welded my tunnel work but the welds weren't to pretty.

Keep up the good work.

[dhutton]

Looking forward to seeing this one done. Curious what you are using to cut the tubing?

[overZealous1]

i am using an abrasive chop saw to cut the larger stuff. set it once and make all the angle cuts, easy way to make sure rails would go together parallel again. cut off wheels on brackets and smaller stuff. i have a tig welder, mig welder, and an arc welder. just never used any of them much, lol. tig takes some time to make look pretty, but the easiest to make sure you have penetration. so far all my tig experience has been on this frame. i will get it.

[Hotwhilz]

Sweet, keep going, I'm learning as you go, don't know if you mentionned it or not did you have to cut the rear floor to fit or does it fit under there?

[overZealous1]

i have yet to take any serious measurements for under car. the center should fit, but where my front crossmember is over the pumpkin, it probably won't. i am going into it thinking nothing will fit and build new floor between rails. if it fits, great!

btw- just saw a whole rear 350z clip for $300 locally!!! cheap!

[andrewb70]

Scott,

Do you know where is the "sweet spot" in the suspension travel? I would think that it is important to know that so you can position the frame in such a way that at ride height the control arms where they are supposed to be, if that makes sense...

Andrew

[overZealous1]

the blocks that i have under the rear suspension set it 1.5" lower than a stock 350z (difference in tire heights was figured in), so yes, i am building the frame to that ride height. the frame looks low, and it is. the body is getting channeled over the frame.
stock,at 3" ground clearance on subframe, the body is 7" off the ground, even with subframe bushings gone. i am looking to run body flush on bottom of frame rails. then a 1/4" thick strip of plastic down rails to slide over stuff. exhaust will probably exit behind front tires or run through side rockers and exit before rear tires.
so, take the lowest streetable 67 you have seen, then drop it 3 more inches ;) thats where the body will sit.

i will have to make new hood hinges and flares front and rear. trans tunnel will be huge. but, it will be one sick 67! my original goal was to tuck 1.5" of wheel. looks like i will hit about 1" tucked. but, i can cheat the fender lip down the other half inch to hit my goal though, haha.

[FerrariT]

I'm curious what is your reasoning for swapping in the 350z rear end. Obviously handling but what are you shooting for? Specifically?
It is indeed outside the box, cool!

[overZealous1]

in the end, i am shooting for an ultimate street car. something that can do everything good. turns, accel, brake, but the biggest is to be able to live with it. dead reliable, and comfortable enough you can go down the street, or across the country in a moments notice. not be jarred by harsh ride, comfortable seats, quiet, and all the emenities, electronics and comfort and reliability of a new car. i am not building this car for any one type of competition. it is being built so i can have a cruiser and not put more miles on my other car, that isn't comfortable, noisy, jarring and super low! my idea of a cruiser might be different than someone elses though, hahaa.

[FerrariT]

Sounds exactly like my type of build!

I'm shooting for higher amounts of HP/Torque.

What do you think you could achieve on the skidpad and slalom? I know some of the nismo's hit 1.0g+ do you believe this could very well translate?

Thanks for the info man.

Goodluck with the build.

I'm watching!

[overZealous1]

who knows what it could hit. luckily it will have alot of tuneability though to get it as good as it can be. i will be running alot of rubber (275 on 19x10, and 345 on 20x13) the weight balance will be off compared to the 350z, and who knows how the front will react with the rear. but, i plan very rare trips to track or auto cross. my main concern is how the car feels to the driver, confidence wise and predictable at the limit. after all, a car is only as tolerable as it interfaces with the driver. it will be mostly a street car, so compromise for the last couple tenths of a second, is not my goal. making it feel like a brand new corvette, gtr, 370z, is the goal. running a twin turbo ls2, and viper 6psd. front is totally done and Z06 front brakes. i have wheel counters front and rear, so abs will happen, cruise control. will be running a carputer, constantly coneccted to ecu, so i can run screen as my gauges, tune on the fly, and do wi-fi gps or watch a movie. heated plush power seats, and lots of sound proofing. so pretty much whatever you ask the car to do, or want it to do, it can do it!! ;)
at the end of the day, i probably should of just bought a gtr. hahaha

[FerrariT]

Nope you pretty much just described exactly what I've always wanted a "porsche killer" but in the shape of old school muscle! (Actually it was after the November 2010 Motor Trend article on the ZR1 vs 911, I concocted this idea! The car has to at least perform as well as the zr1!)

Why the 350z rear instead of say the corvette's or a Heidts ?

(And, where is the fun in just buying the GTR? LOL)

[overZealous1]

i used to have high hp 350z. so i know it will handle some power. plus i really loved the feel of the Z. there is tons of aftermarket support also from axles, to adjustable links to brakes from mild to wild. you shop around abit and you can pick up full 350z rears, cradle and all, for about $600. tough to beat that in a complete rear suspension that only requires 4 mounting points to put in. all in all, the choice was simple!

[81S]

extremely creative. I think everyones waiting to see how it will turn out before they are willing to try it though.

subscribed

[TN10.5Guy]

who knows what it could hit. luckily it will have alot of tuneability though to get it as good as it can be. i will be running alot of rubber (275 on 19x10, and 345 on 20x13) the weight balance will be off compared to the 350z, and who knows how the front will react with the rear. but, i plan very rare trips to track or auto cross. my main concern is how the car feels to the driver, confidence wise and predictable at the limit. after all, a car is only as tolerable as it interfaces with the driver. it will be mostly a street car, so compromise for the last couple tenths of a second, is not my goal. making it feel like a brand new corvette, gtr, 370z, is the goal. running a twin turbo ls2, and viper 6psd. front is totally done and Z06 front brakes. i have wheel counters front and rear, so abs will happen, cruise control. will be running a carputer, constantly coneccted to ecu, so i can run screen as my gauges, tune on the fly, and do wi-fi gps or watch a movie. heated plush power seats, and lots of sound proofing. so pretty much whatever you ask the car to do, or want it to do, it can do it!! ;)
at the end of the day, i probably should of just bought a gtr. hahaha

when you say carputer, is there a company that makes interfaces to hook to a stereo lcd system or is it a whole setup for what your explaining? I have always wanted to incorporate my tuning and acc. gauges into a flat screen head unit but didnt know how.

[overZealous1]

there are systems you can buy that have everything bundled for you. or you can create your own by tearing apart a laptop and using an inverter. i will decide which way i will go when i get to that point. you can download the tuning software to disk and just keep your ecu plugged in all the time. there is tons of different software you can download that is model or make specific also. get a really good sound card and download some high end crossover programs and run a rocking stereo too. possiblities are endless and relatively cheap if you try to do each system separately. maybe even do dual screens. really a super piece to add if you are fuel injected, and if your not!
if you think about any type of thing your home pc can do, or downloadable programs, you could have it in your car. if you have a smart phone, run it on wi-fi, and link carputer to it.

[exwestracer]

Any more progress, Scott?

[overZealous1]

hey ray. rear frame is totally completed now, front mounts and all. removed the stock rubber mount bushings from the Z rear also. the subframe mounts and the diff. mounts. welded in solid alum slugs and made steel ones for the diff. removed my stock rear frame rails on the camaro. i am at the point of starting to cut out the entire floor of the camaro. the simplest plan i have come up with is to run new rails about 1/2" lower than rockers and just run a flat piece of sheet metal across the whole bottom of car. it will creat cavities inside of car to run all my wiring, fuel rails, computer and so on. then a thin false floor over it. will make the bottom of car totally smooth (with a bolt in section to cover driveline tunnel since my driveline will only rotate) then install teflon sliders 1/4" thick on bottom of frame rails. ground clearance should be about 3.5-4" and that will be rocker height also. i will be tucking over 2" of front wheel, not just tire, but wheel!!! will just flare as needed!

progress has been slow as of late. i am going to start producing poly suspension, shock, and rear diff mounts for vipers. so my time is going on that right now. with viper ripped apart also, i am running out of garage space!! i may be able to move stuff around to get back to camaro though while waiting for prototype bushing for the viper.

[overZealous1]

heres some pics of the solid bushings i welded in. front of carrier is bushings i made from steel, all the rest are 1" thick alum rounds that i welded in. mount holes not drilled yet. a couple of how the frame mounts came out also.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC00153-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC00152-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC00151-1.jpg
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC00149-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC00148-1.jpg

[exwestracer]

You're just about to the GOOD part!

[68camotion]

Wow outside the box is right, looks nice.

[overZealous1]

wish i had the time to work on it right now! lol. hoping to set time aside in a few days.

[LT1Nova]

Very cool. Subscribed to see how it plays out.

[69lsxamx]

do you know how much the rear suspension weighs?

[Rhino]

so, take the lowest streetable 67 you have seen, then drop it 3 more inches ;) thats where the body will sit.


What are your plans for your rear wheel houses and front inner fenders?

[overZealous1]

do you know how much the rear suspension weighs?

more than a toaster, less than a bulldozer! lol

with no wheels/tires on it, i can bend over and with a little leverage, lift it up. i'd say 200lbs.

[overZealous1]

What are your plans for your rear wheel houses and front inner fenders?

not sure on the front. the rear will get generic wheel tubs. will probably have to go nearly all the way up to the top of fender. front tires will end up about 3" from hitting top of fender. springs and shocks will be stiff. :) front inner fenders may have to be an option, unless i can find someplace else to put the turbos.

[overZealous1]

hoping to get back onto this project soon. been making viper parts, so with both cars pulled apart looking like a yard sale in my garage! viper should be wrapped up in a couple weeks, then back on the camaro it is!

[compos mentis]

not sure on the front. the rear will get generic wheel tubs. will probably have to go nearly all the way up to the top of fender. front tires will end up about 3" from hitting top of fender. springs and shocks will be stiff. :) front inner fenders may have to be an option, unless i can find someplace else to put the turbos.

This is one solution.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=389423&postcount=792

Brett's on here too.

[overZealous1]

those do look pretty awesome. with my car being so cut up and custom, i am not sure they would work. i would have to hack them all up. it is the turbo's that will make mine a bitch.

[compos mentis]

those do look pretty awesome. with my car being so cut up and custom, i am not sure they would work. i would have to hack them all up. it is the turbo's that will make mine a bitch.

Actually my point in posting that link was Brett could be a source for you for custom inner fenders. He made those one-offs because JCG's blue '68 (amazing car btw) has widened fenders (and some other issues that came into play IIRC), so Cris G. needed custom inner fenders.

[overZealous1]

thanks. i do all my own fab work though. no stock mounting points will be able to be used.

[68KMARO]

any updates??

rich

[Oramac]

I'd love to hear any updates too if you have them.

[Buryingthesun]

did this ever come together?

[overZealous1]

still going. been working so much having to wait for the dust to settle a little and be back on it in the fall hopefully. i have it under the car just to guesstimate locations of everything, but no cuts have been made. picking up a plasma cutter soon and then bye bye floor pan and firewall! instead of grafting new frame to stock subframe, i am keeping my eye out for a bare aftermarket subframe. finished product will be alot nicer to spend a little extra now.

[Oramac]

Good to hear it's still on the list! Hopefully you can find the bare subframe. I don't think I've ever seen one for sale totally bare.

[overZealous1]

my budget is around $2k for the front. with all the mods needed to do to stock subframe, i can easily make that up in time, cleanliness, and overall final value of car. but, getting confused on what my best choice will be. looks like i can get one in that price though easily. gonna make a post and get opinions.

[overZealous1]

figured out an ingenious way to get the project moving faster! since my floor pan, trunk, and wheel wells are all in good condition, i have found a guy that needs a whole new floor pan. so, he gets a good floor pan, i get free labor to pull it out!
about 90% decided on a speedtech complete subframe. after all is said and done, it will be the best option. hoping to order it in a week or 2.

[overZealous1]

63618

too bad that is as far as i can drop the body right now till floor is gone. also, too bad the body is coming down about 12" from this pic. nobody will ever see it. they will just think my straight axle is bent when i roll up with negative rear camber! :P

[Ripper]

Subscribed!

And I curse myself for not thinking of the 350Z rear suspension before I build mine. lol

[compos mentis]

Subscribed!

And I curse myself for not thinking of the 350Z rear suspension before I build mine. lol

Would it help knowing that we forgive you, Anders?

4qLPdI7bZnI

[overZealous1]

Subscribed!

And I curse myself for not thinking of the 350Z rear suspension before I build mine. lol

It is a pretty cheap proven piece with TONS of aftermarket support. If you could blow up a pumpkin (which i have never heard of) you could buy another for $200 or less!

[Ripper]

It is a pretty cheap proven piece with TONS of aftermarket support. If you could blow up a pumpkin (which i have never heard of) you could buy another for $200 or less!

Arrrgh...
Well. Atleast my suspension was even cheaper.
However, the rear end really looks good. Will follow this thread with great interest!

[Bmf5150]

Awesome!!!!

[Wheel Werkes]

Loving this build. Absolutely stunning! Awesome work Scott. Subscribed

[overZealous1]

Loving this build. Absolutely stunning! Awesome work Scott. Subscribed


thanks. lots should be happening soon on this!

[overZealous1]

well, just ordered the complete speedtech subframe, ridetech single adjustable coilovers front and rear (have decided to do a pushrod/rocker set up in the rear), new door skins, quarter skins, new trunk, am 10pt cage, and a few other goodies. going to be like christmas here in a couple weeks!!
still need a wilwood pedal set up with remote master cylinders, and a new steering column. then car will finally be a roller. plenty of parts now though to keep me busy for a couple months.

[Oramac]

well, just ordered the complete speedtech subframe, ridetech single adjustable coilovers front and rear (have decided to do a pushrod/rocker set up in the rear), new door skins, quarter skins, new trunk, am 10pt cage, and a few other goodies. going to be like christmas here in a couple weeks!!
still need a wilwood pedal set up with remote master cylinders, and a new steering column. then car will finally be a roller. plenty of parts now though to keep me busy for a couple months.

I wish we could "like" posts on here or something. I don't have anything terribly productive to say besides it sounds really great!

[overZealous1]

lol. i got the floor pan, firewall, and rear wheel wells out now. got body sitting over rear frame now with body sitting about 4.5" off ground. looks completely slammed!! can't wait to see when it goes to final position at 3.5". ;)
i got the new door skins and rear quarters so i could create a widebody using stock panels. tops of panels to weld back in original position, bottom of panels will have about a 3" filler piece welded in. this is going to be one wide and low 67!!!

pics coming soon. picking up speedtech subframe and am roll bar this friday!

on a side note, been distracted for the last week or so. traded viper in for an SL55 AMG. 493hp out of the box unmodded (won't stay that way long!!) and am just loving it. incredible car that still will smoke almost anything on the road. viper was cool, but never drove it. this one i will use the hell out of! in 8 days of having it, new wheels/tires, lowered, white glove clean treatment, wrapping some interior and exterior parts in cf wrap, all trim in matter black, and lot of parts on the way!
if anyone is on the fence about this car, or don't know anything about it, just do it!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/DSC00267-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/DSC00268-1.jpg

[acegto]

Its been a couple weeks since you said yous have pics...what gives? Park the sl and get back to work!

[overZealous1]

went a little nuts on the sl55. cf front and rear spoilers, larger aux heat exchanger, larger heat exchanger water pump, larger crank pulley for supercharger, tune, trans remap, updated black grill, painted inside headlights black, exhaust work, and a couple other little things. so ya, been a busy couple weeks of new ownership, lol.

got all the parts from speedtech and everyone else. big thanks to speedtech and matts bowties for the great customer service, prices, and for answering all my questions!! everyone was top notch!
finally done messing with the sl, so work will finally start on camaro again!!! until then, another shameless pic of the sl! hard to believe, but it is solid into the 11's now and a 100 shot will easily pop it into the 10's!! so ok, i'm not done effing with it! lol

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/20120929_093434_645_zps23e3e1cc-1.jpg

[Pete68]

Love the 350Z build, I had a 350Z coupe and a convertible when I used to work for Nissan North America...I absolutely LOVED that car. Anyone on this forum who has never had a modern sports car should go out and own one for a least a few years, it may change the way you think about cars.

Anyway, keep it up, I can wait to see how it turns out. Subscribed!

[overZealous1]

ya, the Z was my favorite too. responded excellent to modifications and just a great car. trying to get the camaro close to the same level. will be super hard to do though. using some of the suspension should help though! ;)

[68KMARO]

thanks for all the info and keep the great work coming.

rich

[overZealous1]

i did something!! atleast there is finally a visual of the stance. i am drumming back up the idea of doing a widebody, since nobody said i have to weld the stock fenders back in the stock locations!! i have new door skins and new rear quarters. rear quarter will weld in as stock on the top, but will have about a 4" filler to puff out the bottom. top and front edge of door skin will weld in as stock, a tapered filler will be added to match to rear quarter. front fenders will be cut and widened, leaving an opening from fender back to front of door edge. will be alot easier than my original plan.
the body is going to come down another inch from these pics. will take alot of work to front fenders to be able to turn though. front end is sitting on tires right now, so have to cut all of the drop down piece off and come up with my own hood hinges. pins would bethe easiest, but crappy to do a simple oil check. need to remove alot more material around rear tires also. rear wheel wells will extend almost to top of quarter. obviously there is alot of work ahead still, but, the plan is there which is half of it.
happy to atleast get the speedtech subframe under it and also glad to see how much fab time it just took off the drivetrain portion of the project. all the guys at speedtech and matt bowties have been top notch. been doing this a long time and they have to be some of the best vendors i have dealt with.
there is now a visual i can get of how the finished product will sit.
still effing with the sl. threw out a challenge of getting below a 10.8 quarter to set a record, so doing the fuel system, running the blower to light speed, and will finish it off with nitrous. hopefully done in a couple weeks with that. then, back onto this!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DSC00291_zpse6cf3572-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DSC00293_zps5e9143bc-1.jpg
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DSC00294_zps79fa9258-1.jpg

[overZealous1]

oh ya, once i finally get done cutting body panels and all the stuff off the car, i will finally have it blasted. that way it can be done inside and out on every panel, then painted before welding new panels on.

[robertjra]

If you do the widebody take lots of pics!!! love the work you have done keep after it!!!!

[wellis77]

Looks great Scott! I can relate to the issue of resting on fenders and the inside picture looking to rear is very similar to my issue; tubs in my build will be very high in the quarter. Real nice work though, you've done a great job so far. Looking forward to seeing how you pull the rest off.

[Oramac]

Wow that's low!! Too low for my taste, honestly, but it ain't my car. The rear end and subframe all look awesome. How do you like the front subframe? I've been needing one for my car too but have no idea who to get it from. And I love the engine setup too! Twins on that will scream!

[justanova]

for your hood hinge dilemma, look into e30 or e34 bmw hood hinges,I'm not sure if you are familiar with how they work but they mount to the core support and the hood opens backwards, when "popping" the hood the front of the hood raises up and the hood slides forward a few inches the rollers at the rear of the hood roll forward out of their slot and the hood will swing up from ther rear. (hope that makes sense) you can get the parts from bmw pretty reasonable.

[exwestracer]

Wow, that thing IS low. Looking at the pic of the front suspension, how much travel will that shock have left if you static drop another inch? Look REALLY close at tire to turbo clearance when lowered and steered!

(Ahh, nevermind. Body drop, right?)

Pretty awesome, man. Z rear looks like it belongs in there...

[overZealous1]

thanks ray. i figure i have about 3" compression left at the tire. those springs are 600lb though. the turbos will get rehung. since dropping the body over frame, they are now higher than the hood. lol. luckily the speedtech subframe has alot more clearance in that area than the stock subframe.

wanted to ask ya. i got a set of ridetech single adjustables for the rear also to mount push rod style. i am having probs coming up with a nice way of doing my main pivot bearing for the pushrod set up. best thing i am coming up with is just a pillow block style. most of the bell cranks i see are custom machined and have a sealed bearing pressed or lock ringed in, but i would rather skip the large expense of having something custom machined and just make something myself. any ideas? if i could find the id of some tubing the same as the od of a sealed bearing, i could swing that, but chances are slim i would find the correct tolerance without having to machine something.

[overZealous1]

for your hood hinge dilemma, look into e30 or e34 bmw hood hinges,I'm not sure if you are familiar with how they work but they mount to the core support and the hood opens backwards, when "popping" the hood the front of the hood raises up and the hood slides forward a few inches the rollers at the rear of the hood roll forward out of their slot and the hood will swing up from ther rear. (hope that makes sense) you can get the parts from bmw pretty reasonable.

ya, i see what you are saying. i will take a look at them and see if it is somerthing i could make work. opening from the back would look pretty cool too!

[overZealous1]

Wow that's low!! Too low for my taste, honestly, but it ain't my car. The rear end and subframe all look awesome. How do you like the front subframe? I've been needing one for my car too but have no idea who to get it from. And I love the engine setup too! Twins on that will scream!


the cool thing about the height, is that it really isn't all that low. subframe is at 3.25" off ground, and body is still at 4.5". it is more of an illusion created by dropping body over frame. once i hammer flat the pinch weld on bottom of car, that will drop body the last 1". i won't have ground clearance issues with headers, since i won't have any and can custom fit my exhaust tubing. since my driveshaft will not be moving up and down, the plan is to create a flat bottomed car with all of my wiring, fuel/brake lines, and everything else within the thickness of the frame recessed. middle flat panel under car will be removable to access it all. should be super clean!

i am very happy with the speedtech subframe. they had a deal running a month or so ago tossing in stock height afx spindles for free, couldn't pass it up! the stock geometry was completely jacked up on my car at the height i wanted on the stock subframe. speedtech sets the geometry up expecting the car to be lowered, so now my geometry is back in check at my ride height. quality looks great though! in my build, it really was a neccesary piece.

i did build my stock subframe up though before deciding on the speedtech. i have some helix tubular control arms, tall afx spindles, 1 1/8 front sway bar, z28 steering box, all steering linkage, in new or rebuilt condition with no miles, just mock up that i will be selling if interested in the package.

[exwestracer]

i did build my stock subframe up though before deciding on the speedtech. i have some helix tubular control arms, tall afx spindles, 1 1/8 front sway bar, z28 steering box, all steering linkage, in new or rebuilt condition with no miles, just mock up that i will be selling if interested in the package.

I'll trade ya for that BMW hood hinge setup...LOL. Just so happens I have one.

On the bearings, I made a setup for my supermod that uses a 1" wide needle roller bearing and 2 torrington thrust bearings, just like an Indycar rocker setup. They fit right over 1 1/2" tubing, but you will have to make something to attach the cap bolt to. I can get the bearing numbers and some pics if you're interested. You can check out the finished product at the end of my "separating ride from roll" thread in the Advanced Performance forum.

(You know what, I'll build you a set of them to your specs in trade for those parts. That should be about even?)

[overZealous1]

heck ya, would like pics and part numbers if you have them! it is the next thing i have to do. been a little bit of a hold up till i can get those made.

the mounting points i have planned is to have main pivot come off corner of frame at a 45 degree, then mount coilovers butting into eachother at center. should make everything pretty simple and strong.

[exwestracer]

Here are some photos of the rocker pivot bearings. I used 1/8" 4130 plate for the rocker arm brackets. The roller housing and pivot boss are 4130 tubing. The threaded plate in the center is 1/4" 4130 tubing with a jet nut welded to the back of it. One thrust bearing rides on the back face of the roller housing, the other rides against the outer face of the bearing itself. Where I notched the pivot boss to fit over a round tube, you could mill in an angle cut so it fit over the corner of your frame rail.

664676646866469

Let me know if you want to do some trading...

[overZealous1]

i did find some od sealed bearings at 1.26", and an 1/8" wall tubing with a 1.25" id. my main problem was finding a way to install bearings, keep them replaceable, eliminate side to side walking of bearing, and be able to do all of it in the garage. oh ya, to look good too. think i figured it out. one bearing pressed in from each outer side, then i just weld in a spacer or stop in the middle of them. bearings press in up against center stop, then just use spacers against the inner race to the mounts.

i did find a company that makes rockers. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/pdf/TCP_VOL_7_WEB_55-64.pdf page 8 shows a good pic of them. i called and they want $500 for the pair. while reasonable, these seem like $50 + fab time parts to me.

[LeadFootDriver]

Hey Guys,

Been lurking for a while now and just registered to post on this thread...

Dont' mean to thread jack, but that rear suspension has me going crazy trying to find more info on it. I'd like to do the same I'm wondering if the 64-66 Mustang body is just too narrow for it. Some fender flares/widening would be in order. Just don't want it to look ridiculous. There is only a 3" difference from the 350z width and the Mustang. Any information about your track width, total wheel to wheel width, and dimensions of subframe would be greatly appreciated.

Rod

[overZealous1]

i believe i posted the 350z track width earlier in this thread. i used c6 z06 wheels to get a real deep inside offset and then a 1" conversion spacer for the lug conversion. you would not need the conversion though as the lug pattern is 4.5" already. i am running dangerously close to hitting the front trailing link on the rear. will probably need to up my spacer to 1.25". my rears are 20x13 with something like a 7-8" offset. depending on your wheels will obviously set your final width.
center to center on frame i set to match the front subframe at 33.5". next step for me is to chop ends off speedtech front, and front of my frame and set wheelbase and square. then i can align rear and see if i have enough clearance off the trailing link.

[LeadFootDriver]

Vinny,

Thanks for the info. Just read through again. Should work out well for the Mustang without the spacers dropping it under 72.25" while keeping everything else constant.

Considered air ride considering the low ride height?

Rod

[overZealous1]

no air ride for me. 3" off the frame is like a mile to me. the front of the car is still pretty high and the angle from the tire contact is can enable me to hit pretty steep driveways, like even my own. frame rails will be lowest thing and contineous. plan on installing a 1/4" thick piece of teflon to bottom of rails. it will slide right over stuff leaving nearly zero damage.

[exwestracer]

i did find some od sealed bearings at 1.26", and an 1/8" wall tubing with a 1.25" id. my main problem was finding a way to install bearings, keep them replaceable, eliminate side to side walking of bearing, and be able to do all of it in the garage. oh ya, to look good too. think i figured it out. one bearing pressed in from each outer side, then i just weld in a spacer or stop in the middle of them. bearings press in up against center stop, then just use spacers against the inner race to the mounts.

i did find a company that makes rockers. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/pdf/TCP_VOL_7_WEB_55-64.pdf page 8 shows a good pic of them. i called and they want $500 for the pair. while reasonable, these seem like $50 + fab time parts to me.

I'd considered the small bearing route like the Total Control rockers use. It seems to me that unless you have a GOOD double shear mount, it is asking a lot of the pivot bolt or shaft, more than the bearings themselves. The 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 ID 4130 pivot should be plenty strong in single shear, if necessary.

[overZealous1]

I'd considered the small bearing route like the Total Control rockers use. It seems to me that unless you have a GOOD double shear mount, it is asking a lot of the pivot bolt or shaft, more than the bearings themselves. The 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 ID 4130 pivot should be plenty strong in single shear, if necessary.

i didn't realize i could get the sealed bearings with a flange on them. i found some and purchased 4. 2 for each side. i can simply press them in from each side to a 3/16 wall tube. on my old viper the rear coilovers used a single 1/2" lower bolt for mounting. the bolt however was 4" long from mount to mount in double shear. i can get away with about 1.5" mount to mount in double shear with the rocker/frame mount, plus gusset mount tabs. it should be plenty strong. i am entertaining a very simple gusseted T out of rectangular steel to make the rest of the rocker. but, i still am going to go check a couple fab places though and just see what they would charge to do the very simple machining to a chunk of triangle alum. just need about a 1" thick 12"x12" square, cut in half corner to corner, then 3 holes in each. lol

[LeeBurger]

That is fantastic, I wish I had the skills to do it. I believe IRS is the best setup for any car and would do it if I could. I've looked at the Heidts IRS over and over again, but just can't pull the trigger at that price.

[Chevelle LT1]

Hi Scott -

Love the project, and the use of non-traditional vehicle sources.

I just purchased a 69 Mustang Fastback, and your thread definitely got my attention. If I can ask you one question: Did you ever give any thought to using the Z front suspension assembly as well? Since it is a bolt in subframe, and you would only need to add UPR control arm mounting points, it seems (at least in my mind - which means it's probably wrong) that it would be a feasible direction to go, and then you would have the FR & RR suspensions that were designed to be used together.

Thanks!

~ Jason

[T.K.]

Lovin the build. Recently started something very similar myself with a 2011 CTS-V IRS in my '68. I'm early in the build so I am still going back and forth between building a subframe and building a floor from scratch like you or just welding in the whole cadillac floor and using the stock mounting points. Subscribed for sure.

[overZealous1]

been super busy and havn't touched the camaro in a couple months. project sl55 has now gone out of control. about 725 crank hp and going widebody. expecting to be done in a month or 2, then back to the camaro!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130110_233509-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130110_232946-1.jpg

[LeadFootDriver]

well, just ordered the complete speedtech subframe, ridetech single adjustable coilovers front and rear (have decided to do a pushrod/rocker set up in the rear), new door skins, quarter skins, new trunk, am 10pt cage, and a few other goodies. going to be like christmas here in a couple weeks!!
still need a wilwood pedal set up with remote master cylinders, and a new steering column. then car will finally be a roller. plenty of parts now though to keep me busy for a couple months.

Hi Vinny,

Have any updates on this project? Looking amazing so far.

Since I last posted, I've sourced a '66 Mustang shell, complete rear subframe, and waiting on a complete C5 front suspension. Going to be building a full frame too.

Let me know if you want to get rid of those Stance coilovers.

[overZealous1]

pm sent.

finally after a 6 month build on my other car, it is done! looking forward to getting back onto the camaro!!

i know not the right section, but this was the outcome-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130428_194042_HDR_zps086b0188-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20130428_194042_HDR_zps086b0188.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/72795_646254175391940_1734986913_n_zps7f-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/72795_646254175391940_1734986913_n_zps7f4bae7c.jpg .html)

all built and painted entirely by myself. just more practice for all the work on the camaro! ;)

[no go nova]

Sucks I can't see the pics im at work wanna see this under there.

[andrewb70]

The MB looks killer!

Andrew

[Oramac]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130428_194042_HDR_zps086b0188-1.jpg

Tell ya what. Normally I'm not a fan of that style MB, but you've done a great job on it! Looks absolutely stunning! I like the color and wheels a lot.

[Nasty N8]

This is such an awesome setup, I subscribed to this thread and build a while back, I was just hoping to see some updates! What's the latest on this setup? Please post an update!

[overZealous1]

after the benz, i got sidetracked again and picked up a 1980 turbo trans am pace car. i have had it for 3 weeks and have taken it to bare metal already and painted. doing the color sanding now. car should be done and out of way in 2 weeks. THEN, the camaro goes into "the working spot" and the project will continue! finally, lol.

one problem is i robbed the wheels from the camaro to use on the benz with spacers. so no wheels on camaro, pretty much stopped progress as car was being built around the wheels. Well, today finally bought another set of 3 piece 19x10 and 20x13 wheels for the camaro. so i just need to wrap up the trans am, and onward with the camaro again!!

[MrQuick]

:banghead:

cmon vinny

[overZealous1]

:banghead:

cmon vinny

hahha. what can i say, i'm addicted to all cars, not just one. lol

i have serious ocd with cars. focus is about to come back to the camaro. first point being the pushrod set up for the rear coilovers.

[LeadFootDriver]

Get the pushrod setup straightened out?

Couple of questions for you. The differential is set to 0 degrees correct? From there you can determine the correct height of the subframe mounting points…

What aftermarket links have you used on your setup? I'm really considering spherical rod ends since I'm aiming for as little compromise as possible.

Would it not have been easier to use the solid diff and subframe mounts that are prefabbed?

Keep us posted! :pics2:

[overZealous1]

Get the pushrod setup straightened out?

Couple of questions for you. The differential is set to 0 degrees correct? From there you can determine the correct height of the subframe mounting points…

What aftermarket links have you used on your setup? I'm really considering spherical rod ends since I'm aiming for as little compromise as possible.

Would it not have been easier to use the solid diff and subframe mounts that are prefabbed?

Keep us posted! :pics2:

the t/a is giving me headaches, so no camaro work yet.

if you look on ebay, you can find most all of the links with rod ends for pretty cheap. i bought one set and made the others. i set diff height by measuring the height from a stock 350z to the ground then the relationship of where i wanted my center frame rails to sit. then dropped it about 1.5-2" to simulate the geometry of how i used to run it in my old Z lowered. i have no idea where roll center is, not very easy to figure on this rear.
i made my own diff mounts and solid cradle mounts since it was super cheap and had most parts laying around to do it. i want to say the prices people wanted for the parts was alot more than my scraps laying around! haha
i cannot remember what angle i set diff at, but i want to say it was a couple degrees up. it really wouldn't matter on an irs though other than to do a slight offset/angle to keep driveline vibration away.

[overZealous1]

here are a couple pics of it sitting there ready to be worked on. haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131005_180242_zpsa2ecd773-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20131005_180242_zpsa2ecd773.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131005_180211_zpscc8c5785-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20131005_180211_zpscc8c5785.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131005_180158_zpsacf78fc5-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20131005_180158_zpsacf78fc5.jpg.html)

i have 4x4 chunks under frame and body in pics. so that will be ride height and how low it actually will be.

[PhillipM]

Any updates?

[overZealous1]

Any updates?

nope. i have decided to do a full resto on the 1980 t/a pace car and it is taking awhile to do. having to replace nearly every part in the car.

i am also in a rush to get it done so i can sell it to make way for the new shiny thing i had to get. it is a brand new kit car/rebody of an infiniti g35, called a vaydor. so, i will still be working on a 350z/g35 rear end, just in a different car, haha. it will be getting a tt lsx trans plant and the 6l80e trans. it has been hard to not grab parts from the camaro as it has 95% of the drivetrain i will be doing in it.
so in other words, the camaro will be sitting inside with all the parts i bought for it getting older, lol. planning to sell the benz also so that i can get back down to 2 fun cars. at that point i can get a little more focus back onto the camaro. it will not fall into the category of the never finished project, rather it is just so far away from being done that other projects have taken precedence.

sorry for the guys who were following this. most of the details are in the thread already though to set it up. only real thing left is the coil over set up.

[gak68]

The SL55 looks great; what is that color? I'm looking to paint my 1968 Camaro some color blue, but I don't want the standard navy blue metallic.

[overZealous1]

The SL55 looks great; what is that color? I'm looking to paint my 1968 Camaro some color blue, but I don't want the standard navy blue metallic.

the color is a toyota one. it was an option on the newer fj's and the scion xb. there are tons of the blue fl's so i am sure you have seen the color tons of times. no pearl or flake in it, just straight toner.

[overZealous1]

cancelled order on my next project. figured it was time to get back on the camaro instead of starting from scratch on another car. new wheels and some 4 pot 13" brakes purchased for the rear on the camaro! i may be sending it somewhere though to get me past the hurdle of the floor pan. with summer coming my time gets very limited.

[LeadFootDriver]

cancelled order on my next project. figured it was time to get back on the camaro instead of starting from scratch on another car. new wheels and some 4 pot 13" brakes purchased for the rear on the camaro! i may be sending it somewhere though to get me past the hurdle of the floor pan. with summer coming my time gets very limited.

Any updates on this project?

[meatonastick]

Did anything ever happen with this? It was just starting to get good...

[recycler]

Did this ever get finished? I like where it was headed.

[overZealous1]

Still have the Camaro. Still have not touched it outside of a wheel change. Something else caught my eye, and couldn't pass up the deal. Got a Superlite coupe, as an unfinished project. So that build has been going on for over a year.
It has a twin turbo Lexus 1UZ motor, which will put out about 1,000hp and 10,000rpm redline. This car is actually the very first prototype body and chassis from RCR. I am also redesigning a lot of the body. Front is primarily done, and rear is pretty close design wise, but still a couple months off from ready to paint. Guessing this car to come in at 2550# in track trim, and 2750# in street. Once body is finished, I will be heading to a wind tunnel to get actual drag and downforce measurements, not just figured by a computer program.There is still another very large wing to go on the rear, and extended front splitter and dive planes on the front sides.
Once this car is done, I am trying to get back onto the Camaro. It always was a long term project for me though. It is my first car and all. Lol.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/FB_IMG_1472834166719_zpsyhrdncel-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/FB_IMG_1472834166719_zpsyhrdncel.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160825_221048_zpsmudzx8b8-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20160825_221048_zpsmudzx8b8.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160829_175649_zpsafkgkniv-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20160829_175649_zpsafkgkniv.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20151220_114010_zpsn07jmrx1-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20151220_114010_zpsn07jmrx1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160215_174203_zpsubu3wbuw-1.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/scooter350z/media/20160215_174203_zpsubu3wbuw.jpg.html)

[recycler]

That sucker is downright sexy!
Im in the middle of a build that is similar to your Camaro (71 nova, 95 j30 rear subframe), so ill be watching for updates.
And thanks for updating the thread!

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

Hey overZealous1, how did you mate the Viper T56 to the LS2?

It looks like you used a stock bellhousing, but what did you do about the bigger/longer input shaft? Not much info out there from people with a set up like yours.

[overZealous1]

Hey Cliff. You need to use the regular t56/ls front plate and input shaft. Then the ls bellhousing. You can find used ones, or buy new for not alot of dough either. It is a simple swap, and I did it myself. The best part is that the Viper input shaft and plate is a highly sought after piece to mate a t56 to a bbc. So the sale of that will pay for new ls parts. Thats it.

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

Awesome, thanks for the info! I have a Viper T56 behind my SBC right now, but I've been looking into what it would take to go LS. Swapping the mid-plate and the input shaft seem like the cleanest and most simple option. I have read of people who say they tried swapping to the LS1 input shaft but that the gears were ground at a different angle. I'm glad to know that this isn't really the case. Thanks again for your help!

[RIDES BY DESIGN]

Any updates on this one?

[TheBandit]

Any progress on this lately?