Plan was AM chassis but if it seems I can get similar results w/ bolt ons?

[LSxChevelle]

Ok...I'm no rich guy but I want to spend $$ on my Chevelle as I don't have a expensive DD car. So the way I see it I would like to build the Chevelle the way I want it.

Now lately I've had a couple people say I'd be wasting my money by going with the GT-Sport chassis from AM. It runs $13,300 but what I like is that I bolt on brakes, wheels, and body... Also features C6 fron geometry, C6 spindles, rack & pinion, better designed 4-link rear with 9" housing. http://artmorrison.com/chevelle.php

51153

But if I can achieve a great handling car for less (by half) I'm up for it.

Goals-
Superb handling for spirited drives and maybe a couple track days
Bolt on C6 Z06 brakes (look great and somewhat inexpensive)
Rack and pinion??
Bolt on...I do not want to do trial/error and modifications

So if there is a proven set up that works great I'm interested. Basically talk me out of spending $13K

Thanks for any input guys,

Jason

[Tom Welch]

I would do al whole lot of research before spending 1 dime of your money. That said I believe that AM and many other companies out there can help you achieve you goals with the car, research, research, research use the search function here, research. then decide what you want, no one will really be able to help from a blank slate as well as doing your own research. Then you will have a good foundation of knowledge with which to work. Sometimes an expensive thingie isnt as good as well thought out DIY part.

[LSxChevelle]

I would do al whole lot of research before spending 1 dime of your money. That said I believe that AM and many other companies out there can help you achieve you goals with the car, research, research, research use the search function here, research. then decide what you want, no one will really be able to help from a blank slate as well as doing your own research. Then you will have a good foundation of knowledge with which to work. Sometimes an expensive thingie isnt as good as well thought out DIY part.

Definately agree, it's just I read to many tried this, tried that... When it comes to suspension I do need to spend some learning time but I still think in the end I may be looking for a bolt-on proven set up.

[dontlifttoshift]

Depends on what you have already. For example, Is your existing rear end up to the task? Add it up and leave nothing out. the morrison chassis doesn't come with a 3rd member. if you are getting double adjustable shocks from your bolt on set up make sure you are getting the same from your chassis.

At Charlotte a couple weeks back Tom Farrington with his bolt on parts a body and less horsepower ran slightly faster than a full chassis (Schwartz) a body with 335's on the back and a bunch more power under the hood. Is one better than the other? nope just different. The chassis car has been better on a road course.

Of course the great equalizer is the loose nut behind the wheel. If you can't drive it won't matter how much money you spent.

Be realistic about your goals for the car.

From my street rod history it is almost even money between a full tilt aftermarket chassis and working around existing framerails and upgrading from there. Don't forget you can sell your stock chassis as a roller and recover some costs.

Donny

[LSxChevelle]

Well as far as a 3rd member it's a 9" so plenty of used ones out there... I'm not gonna go buy some high $ set up when a junkyard pull freshened up does the same job.

As far as cost that is the concern that I could get about the same amount of $ in it with a lot more work to maybe be the same with me behind the wheel. I just know the little stuff adds up! lol

[Tom Welch]

Call sc&c.

[marolf101x]

We offer a tried and true coil over suspension system for that vehicle for $3100.
That includes:
-front upper control arms
-front lower control arms
-tall spindle (which will accept any number of kits that adapt the Z06 brakes)
-rear upper control arms
-rear lower control arms
-non adjustable coil over front shocks (can be upgraded to single adjustable or triple adjustable shocks)
-non adjustable coil over rear shock conversion (can be upgraded to single adjustable or triple adjustable shocks)

We also have sway bars and a ton of other parts that can be added to the suggested package.

This is one of our A-Body shop cars (it has been on air and coil over and has been beat on mercilessly:
http://www.ridetech.com/garage/1966-chevelle/

[LSxChevelle]

Does anyone have any downside to the AM? Besides price...

[tommycomfort]

Are you looking for someone to talk you out of the AM chassis, or show you other options? I've had a complete array of different chassis parts from a bunch of different manufacturers and they all worked fairly well. I think if I had "extra" money burning a hole in my pocket when we started our project I might have just purchased a complete chassis, but that wasn't the case. Earlier this year I made the switch to the complete DSE setup on our 66 and couldn't be happier. At a quick glance I came up with the DSE front and rear Speed Kit #3 for your car comes in at $6630.00. You can also look at the Ridetech Chevelle and see how well it performs with matched parts. Of course, there is a lot to be said about the "WOW" factor of a custom tubular chassis... Keep us informed on your decision, it will be fun to follow one way or another.
Tom

[muthstryker]

What about a Schwartz chassis?

[Simmo]

Call sc&c.

+1

Was contemplating the same for my Elco. All my research pointed to SC&C for A Body Stuff.

Before you spend anything, read Marks book. It will give you the generic idea to how stuff works + specific recommendations for the A Body. That way you will understand exactly what you want and will be able to make an informed decision.

I still would love the AM chassis too...I'll just learn to out drive my current SC&C set up first (read-probably never lol)

[UMI Performance]

That AM Chassis is beautiful and it looks like great work.

However, for the price your money could be spent in other areas and you would still acheive the same results or better.

Do you currently have a good frame to work with now? If you do reinforcing the frame and having it sand blasted then powder coated your color choice would be a money saver there. Then you can add on the correct items to a solid foundation.

LSXChevelle- Once this car is completed what do you plan on using it for? How will you drive it and what do you expect from it?

People (Included parts sellers and manufactures) can make suggestions to you all day long, but with out knowing your actual goals and expectations from the car they are shooting in the dark.

I hope my two cents has helped a little,
Thanks!
Ryan

[UMI Tech]

Hey LSX. Do you have an engine already? LSx I assume...

As was mentioned a few posts above you could have a car with bolt-ons and perhaps a little bit of additional ingenuity be as fast/smooth/etc as the AM chassis (no slam on his chassis though, nice piece for sure). A $6.5k budget to achieve similar results to a full fab chassis is an interesting challenge and one that UMI would be thrilled to have a chance to work on. You can make a factory chassis pretty nice with blasting and a fresh coat of powder. Rack and pinion is sweet but then again a bumpsteer corrected factory setup and a TurnOne steering box is pretty awesome as well.

With the $6.5k left over I'd put a Whipple on it...

Agree, I clicked "follow" on this one.

ramey

[LSxChevelle]

Well thanks to all have pitched in and made it clear that I can achieve great results with bolt on parts. I was just afraid of throwing on all these parts would still leave me with a weak frame. I'm looking into buying a welder for little needs here and there so maybe with done guidance I can strengthen the frame in the right spots.

Sounds like I should call the companies and then have the hard choice of deciding on who to go with? Sponsorship anyone? Lol

And UMI, great way to put it...save 6.5k and buy a Whipple.

Jason

[SLO_Z28]

The chevelle frame is in no way weak. I would seriously look into that UMI kit, everything you need and nothing you dont. The trick is to match the sway bars and springs, then match the shocks to both. The desired end result is the same no matter what you buy, to keep a maximum tire footprint on the ground under varying conditions. Spend the money where it matters, on light and wide wheels, and good tires!

[andrewb70]

One of the fastest cars at Run to Music City was the white Buick Regal. It hauled butt and had mostly stock suspension parts. It had stock spindles and a-arms in the front with stiff lowering springs, poly bushings and a 1 1/4" sway bar. The rear got similar treatment but might have had some Global West bolt on pieces. What made that car fast was the driver who has 30 years of autocross experience.

Andrew