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View Full Version : Hotchkis vs DSE Subframe Connectors



Vicinity
07-05-2011, 04:43 PM
Not really a question about the brands as it is a question about cutting into the floor vs having SFC's that just go "with the floor".

I'm not too keen on cutting into my floor if I don't have to, I was wondering if there is a large difference in stiffening between the two.

absintheisfun
07-05-2011, 05:28 PM
I'm wanting an answer as well. I spent a bunch of time putting in my new floors--not really wanting to cut em up!

TheJDMan
07-05-2011, 06:08 PM
I have been having the same debate in my mind. The Hotchkis looks like they would be easier to install but they won't provide as much ground clearance and are $390. The DSE welds in, will leave more ground clearance but requires cutting the floor and are $190. I suspect the fact that DSE is welded to the floor pan would make it more of a structual member and I'm just not sure how you justify the extra $200.

MyFriendScott
07-05-2011, 06:18 PM
Ya know there's a sticky on this topic right? :) After you read through it all, you'll still be debating the very same thing. You'll also want the last 1.5 hours of your life back. I can summarize that thread for you now if you'd like, I won't be getting my 1.5 hours of life back that's for sure...

1. No manufacturer shows or reveals any data in improvements over stock in torsional rigidity. The consensus of the posters is that SFC's don't do as much for torsional rigidity as they do with lengthening the "lever point" front to rear.
2. Weld-in units are believed to provide a better connection between frame rails but obviously a bigger PITA to install
3. Many posters claimed that there were less rattles, better launches and cornering after installing both weld-in and bolt-in units.

DEIGuy38
07-05-2011, 08:58 PM
You can make your own frame connectors that install like DSE without the slight bend for about $40 bucks. Go to a steel shop and get 6' of 2"x3"x.120' wall and make templates and start cutting and welding. Look for Carl Casanova's camaro he explains the process. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/ Take your time to get the gaps on the sides tight so it is easier to weld against the sheetmetal.

Rod
07-05-2011, 09:36 PM
The Hotchkis looks like they would be easier to install but they won't provide as much ground clearance

I have them on my Camaro (1sickT8) and have never hit them on any thing, I have bottomed out my headers, crossmember, even tapped a parking block with my tubular control arms over the last 2 years, but I have never hit the SFC by hotchkis
hope that helps

robertjra
07-10-2011, 02:19 PM
I have them on my Camaro (1sickT8) and have never hit them on any thing, I have bottomed out my headers, crossmember, even tapped a parking block with my tubular control arms over the last 2 years, but I have never hit the SFC by hotchkis
hope that helps

thanks that helps me !!!

rustomatic
07-10-2011, 07:50 PM
Not really a question about the brands as it is a question about cutting into the floor vs having SFC's that just go "with the floor".

I'm not too keen on cutting into my floor if I don't have to, I was wondering if there is a large difference in stiffening between the two.

Since I caught the word "brawler" in your signature, consider the following regarding bracing capabilities of two distant points versus one long embrace: Think of the conundrum in MMA terms. Try pinning a guy to the floor just by holding his hands down, while you're straddling him (these are non-dirty terms, hence the MMA qualification). His elbows are coming up, and they'll hit something; if you bend too low, he'll head-butt (or elbow) you. Now, do some sprawl, and get your upper body across his whole shoulder girdle, with at least one of your entire arms working on one of his. You've found much better coverage, and a position of greater strength and rigidity. A hand on each of his hands or forearms is just going to get you broken ribs. Yes, I'm blabbing, but it's steel, and it always looks (and works) better with longer welds...

Hotchkis
07-12-2011, 12:02 PM
Ya know there's a sticky on this topic right? :) After you read through it all, you'll still be debating the very same thing. You'll also want the last 1.5 hours of your life back. I can summarize that thread for you now if you'd like, I won't be getting my 1.5 hours of life back that's for sure...

1. No manufacturer shows or reveals any data in improvements over stock in torsional rigidity. The consensus of the posters is that SFC's don't do as much for torsional rigidity as they do with lengthening the "lever point" front to rear.
2. Weld-in units are believed to provide a better connection between frame rails but obviously a bigger PITA to install
3. Many posters claimed that there were less rattles, better launches and cornering after installing both weld-in and bolt-in units.


Rod – you really drive your car! That’s cool!

Here’s the best way to sum up this debate.

You should be in one of two camps: you either want to cut your floorpans or you don’t.

If you don’t want to cut your floorpans, our connectors are very strong, give lots of ground clearance, and they are the way to go. The Hotchkis subframe connector can be installed in an afternoon without stripping out your interior and slicing your floorboards. You install them from under the car and when you’re done installing them, you can still remove the rear leaf springs (try that with some other weld-in subframe connectors). While technically our SFC’s can be bolted in, we recommend welding front and rear for maximum strength. That said, we also mapped the underside of the F-body and contoured our connectors to match, so they fit up nice and tight and don’t hang down like some of the tubular models do.

Without slicing the floorpan, you’ll get a great deal of rigidity that you’ll notice on the first drive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

zbadone
07-12-2011, 12:27 PM
I have Competition engineering sub frame connectors in my car. Ground clearance is similar to the Hotchkis connectors. They were easy to install, but because I have T-tops I had to notch a small area on the passenger side floorboard for some clearance. It did help stiffen up the car. It is very noticable when jacking the car up. The other great thing about them is that they saved my car when I was rearended. An Altima hit me in the rear and it's nose went under my bumper/gas tank and lifted my car up in the back. When this happened I got a small bulge in my T-top area and a slight tear in the transmission tunnel, but for the most part the car needed very little work.