View Full Version : Hydraulic Or Manual Linkage

05-21-2005, 04:36 PM
What do you think is a better way to go. 5 speed with mechanical linkage or a hydraulic setup.

05-21-2005, 05:51 PM
I think it's a personal preference and/or whatever you're use to. I personally like mechanical because it feels solid and seems to react quicker than hydraulic setups I've driven. Just my 2 cents...


TPI Monte SS
05-21-2005, 07:25 PM
I guess it really depends on what you're looking for, since you can get a relatively light-feeling pedal even with mechanical linkage. I've only driven a few stick cars; my '88 SS with mechanical linkage, my friend's '86 SS with mechanical linkage, and another friend's '02 Z06 with hydraulic. My car has a Ram clutch, and definitely has the stiffest pedal out of the three. My friend installed a Centerforce clutch with his T56 in his '86 SS, and even with the mechanical linkage, it's smooth. The smoothest of all is my other friend's stock Z06.

If you have a big block and/or headers, hydraulic may be the only way to go, just for packaging reasons. I do like the adjustability of the mechanical stuff though.

05-21-2005, 10:27 PM
I've got a hydraulic setup on my Mustang Boss 302. I had to get used to it since I had only driven mechanical linkage. By that I mean the engagement and release was very quick with much less pedal swing. Now that I got used to it, I love it. My shifting/rowing action is very quick since the pedal movement is less than with my mech. Very useful on my Richmond six speed trans.

05-22-2005, 05:54 AM
The pedal travel and firmness of a hydraulic setup can be adjusted by changing the MC bore size. This also needs to be matched with the clutch that you are using. Over traveling a clutch spring is not good. When a clutch spring is over travelled, it will start to engage the clutch again. This can lead to tranny wear and undue load on the thrust bearing. With a hydraulic set-up a pedal stop is highly recommended. An improperly setup mechanical linckage can also lead to clutch over traveling.


05-23-2005, 07:06 AM
I ended up going mechanical when I swapped over to a TKO-600 from the auto. I ended up using a rod kit that uses heim joints from the pedal to the z-bar and from the z-bar to the throwout arm. Very smooth and I don't have to worry about slop fromt the linkage as time goes on. This is using a Centerforce DF clutch/pressure plate. YMMV

05-23-2005, 07:14 AM
Mike, where did you pick up the heim joint rod kit?


05-23-2005, 08:16 AM


Hurst - Jeff
05-23-2005, 09:12 PM
You can pick up the heim joint kit from a company called Speed Direct -about $60. I have there stuff on my 70 Camaro with a TKO600 - they are nice parts.

TPI Monte SS
05-24-2005, 05:08 AM
You can pick up the heim joint kit from a company called Speed Direct -about $60. I have there stuff on my 70 Camaro with a TKO600 - they are nice parts.

I also used the Speed-Direct parts on my '88 SS. It's nice to have a little extra adjustability when you're building a car that originally didn't come with a stick.

05-24-2005, 07:10 AM
Yep, that's them. Very happy with the results.

06-02-2005, 04:51 AM
Thanks for the info guys. Jeff nice to see you have a 70 Camaro, me too. When I am ready I will be calling for a TKO 600.

Hurst - Jeff
06-02-2005, 08:14 AM
Give me a call if you have any questions about the install.
On a related note, while we all know that the stock Tremec shifter that comes with each new TKO works just fine for 70-81 Camaros and most Camaro owners will choose to use the Temec shifter, the new new McLeod Trick Stix shifter is now avialable as a bolt-on replacement for the stock Tremec shifter. If you are using a ceneter console, the McLeod TKO shifter for 70-81 Camaros will fit within your console without having to trim your floorboard or the plastic tunnel piece - additionally it is offset correctly to achieve perect shift stick positioning. For those who do not want to have to modify their car in any way (however minor), using the McLeod shifter is a true, direct bolt-in, no cut, no modification installation.
This is also the case for 67-69 Camaros.
I don't mean to get off topic but I thought you might want to know about this new information.

06-02-2005, 08:37 AM
So far I have been using the Hydrolic clutch from TitoJones and I have been very satisfied. Its been in my car over a year now with no problems at all. I have it on a 6 speed T-56.

06-02-2005, 09:41 AM
So Jeff your saying that with the Mcleod shifter even on a T-56 I could use a Manual center console on a 68 Camaro and it would line up with the og opening?? Or is the Mcleod shifter only for the tko? OH and by the way did we ever get a GP going with you??? :fingersx:

Hurst - Jeff
06-02-2005, 10:01 AM
The McLeod shifter , as a no cut solution foro Camaros, is for the TKO's only. However, the Mcleod shifter is also being made for the T56's. I do not know about the "no mod" with a T56 thing but I do know that the T56/McLeod shifter will allow for multiple shift stick postioning - possibly into your stock console location. If you let me know how far back the stock shift stick is with your model T56, I can tell you if the avaialble McLeod offset will get your stick where it needs to be.

The goup purchase did happen and it is now finished for the time being - thank you to those who participated.

06-02-2005, 10:08 AM
Thanks for the reply. I dont have either transmissions right now just my 2 speed pg, But I do have a center console and would get the standard one when I switched over, I was just wondering because it seems like you have to ditch the center console with a T-56.

I checked your web site out and dang im sorry I missed the gp, Im starting to get into the market to do the swap, One question about your deluxe kit for a 68 what else would I need for the swap coming from a powerglide currently? pedals, pushrods etc??

06-14-2005, 01:28 AM
i have a mustang with a T5, uses wilwood slave/tilton m/c.... did a lot of changing of m/c size, line size etc to get the feel/speed i wanted. my only gripe about it is... the slave is too close to the exhaust. about once a year i start to feel the pedal bleeding off and know its time for new o-rings. it kinda sux... but i can r&r&r in about 15 mins.... and costs all of $.50, atleast i know the fluid is nice new and clean.

my current project is getting "el-manual" linkage.. rodends/rods.... just like the way it feels, completly adjustable.... never needs rebuilding.