POR-15 on a freshly sandblaster frame?

[brrymnvette]

I'm going to be sandblasting my frame in the next week or so and wondered about using POR-15 on the fresh metal? I know it's known for putting on rusted parts, but what about fresh metal? If I just use the metal ready stuff they have, will it adhere just as well?

Or any other product I should look for? Something from Eastwood? Or just find some black rustoleum. It's going on a DD type car that I'm not spending a ton of coin on. Just a quick cheap resto, if there is such a thing.

[Mike Holleman]

POR15 is great stuff for what it was intended to do, encapsulate rust. Doesn't work real well on clean steel. I shoot a freshly painted chassis with a good epoxy primer and then with Imron. Next to powder coat that's about as tough as it gets. Powder coating is the best possible process but is a little more expensive. If you can find someone that can powder coat your chassis for 5 or 6 hundred bucks I would go that route.
Mike




I'm going to be sandblasting my frame in the next week or so and wondered about using POR-15 on the fresh metal? I know it's known for putting on rusted parts, but what about fresh metal? If I just use the metal ready stuff they have, will it adhere just as well?

Or any other product I should look for? Something from Eastwood? Or just find some black rustoleum. It's going on a DD type car that I'm not spending a ton of coin on. Just a quick cheap resto, if there is such a thing.

[J Demuth]

on por 15 website it says it is good on sandblasted surfaces. Haven't tried this yet, just letting u know what i read.

[RBARNES496]

I have used Imron and Por-15 both give nice gloss but Por-15
is alot tougher. I have done several frames sandblasted/metal prep/shoot color works great and will last a long long time.
Good luck,
-Rich

[Twin_Turbo]

It works very well on any rough surface, skin included LOL. It sticks to a sandblasted frame very well, in fact you'll have to grind it off, down to bare metal if you ever want to weld on it. Smooth fresh steel? it peels right off. It needs the texture to stick.

[MonzaRacer]

Big trick is to etch the frame, if I remember they sell an etch called Metal Ready, then hit it with Por 15. Oh and only open as much as you need to do what your working on, if it sits too long after being opened it will set up.

[Twin_Turbo]

I never open the cans, I punch 2 holes in it, 1 for pouring out the POR and 1 to get air into the can. When done simply smear some of the por on a screw's threads and thread it in. It'll seal it off tight. It dries from exposure to moisture.

[rohrt]

I would not do it on a blasted frame. I used it on a few primered parts and it flaked right off. I'm sure it it will bit into a blasted frame but I have never tried it. If you have gone to all the work to blast a frame the finish coat of POR is not very good in my opinion. You could pick up a cheap spray Gun and use a combination of Self etching primer, Epoxy and a single stage top coat and have an awsome finish.

I'm not anti POR I just think it has its place.

[Twin_Turbo]

I have done it on so many blasted parts, I'm not BSing here, it works marvelously! It penetrates into the rough blast steel and it won't ever come off. You can topcoat it when it's still tacky and you will have a high quality finish that's about as durable as it gets. I always top coat it because under exposure from UV the por gets a chalky hue to it.

Of course por will not stock to primered parts. It's based on isocyanates much like superglue and also reacts with moisture to cure. It's supposed to go on bare, rough metal. The rough is key, whether from rusting, blasting, etching...

How can you say it's not good if you have never done it (or at least properly)?

Here, sprayed with POR, topcoated. Isn't this a marvelous frame? The only reason it's done like that is because it didn't fit in the powdercoating oven to cure. All the smaller parts are powdercoated:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/24a2917b89040a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/24b05de499013c-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/24b05e4545a103-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/24b05e45552bdd-1.jpg

That diff too, it was stripped, blasted and then painted with por and topcoated with something resembling cast iron but with a little gloss. That will never ever come off again.

[1969CamaroRS]

I never had a problem with Por-15 sticking to a new metal surface...

I have used it on everything from a rusted surface, engine block, new trans case, and new axle.

Very durable finish that you can clean with Laquer thinner or brake clean or hammer on it, never seen anything else except maybe powder coat come close. The prep is killer and the key thou, or don't bother for sure.

Por 15 and their Chevy Orange engine paint
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine001z-1.jpg

Before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/Before_After001-1.jpg

Por-15 over some minor rust and Chassis black
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/Before_After002-1.jpg

Por-15 and chassis black on brand new transmission case
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Transmission012-1.jpg

Por-15 and chassis black on brand new axle tubes
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/RearSuspension017-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/RearSuspension019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/RearSuspension021-1.jpg

All brushed on with $0.25 foam brushes from Osh (seems to work best).

[brrymnvette]

Thanks guys. Guess, I'll be picking up a quart of it and some metal ready. I'll post up before and after pics, but it won't be for a couple weeks.

[rohrt]

I stand corrected. Your results look pretty good.

[rohrt]

I need to know if you guys sprayed those parts with a Gun?

I can't imagin that you could ever get your gun clean after spraying POR through it. That stuff is so thick and sticky I never had any luck getting it out or off of anything with the exception of a primed panel under the car. The thinner I bought with the POR many years ago didn't work very well at all.

[crustysack]

I did my freshly blasted frame and rear end with POR-15 and it came out great I brushed it on and the stuff lays out like it has been sprayed- I then proceeded to grind the WHOLE bottom of the car and did that as well, inner fenders, fire wall, new trans tunnel I had welded in, the surround under the windshield,radiator support,new trunk that was welded in, as long as the metal is rough it sticks and is tuff as nails- I live in the Northeast and have seen it used on many cars with much success- if you cant afford powder coat use this stuff

[1969CamaroRS]

$0.25 foam brushes from Osh is what I used. Tried a bunch of different brushes, the foam stuff worked the best to laying a nice even amount with minimal runs.

[CruizinKev]

I'll sandblast my frame very soon and then will box and reweld a few areas. I also want to use POR15 products for my frame.
Did you guys painted that "POR15's Chassis Coat" directly to the bare metal or should use "POR15's Rust Preventive Paint" before as the first layer and then for the second layer using "POR15's Chassis Coat"??

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Twin_Turbo]

straight on the sandblasted frame, I sprayed it after thinning it down (use a good respirator, it's nasty stuff) and then topcoated it when it was still tacky.

[CruizinKev]

which POR15 did you use? and also used their "marine clean" or "metal ready" before painting POR15 paint?

[Twin_Turbo]

the black stuff, regular por15. Metal ready is an etching solution. no need since it's all blasted. Por needs the rough texture to stick, that's all.

[JChilders]

I used por15 on the floor pans of my chevelle about 3 years ago. I dirve the car in the Northeast year round. Lost of salt and rain. It still looks like new. My brother has also done about 5 chassis with it and has the same results. Prep is key.

We did spray it on, but you want to clean your gun as soon as you are done.