Daytona Pinion Support

[Blue69Gen1]

I recently converted my Ford 9" rear end from the standard iron pinion support bearing housing to a aluminium Daytona style bearing housing. I noticed that the larger Daytona bearing is about 0.25" longer the standard bearing (1.125" vs 0.875"). After re-assembly, the yoke now sits 0.25 shallower on the pinion shaft. This has had 3 effects: less spline engagement ~0.25", the pinion nut now has about 0.25" of unused threads, and the yoke is about 0.25" closer to the tranny.

The backlash is correct (~0.010"), the pattern on the teeth looks good on the drive and coast, I used a solid spacer with shims to get the pinion rotational torque to around 15-20 inch-lbs with 150 ft-lbs of torque on the pinion nut, and other wise the rearend when together without any issues.

The rear end can be run as is, but I was just wondering if this was normal or if I am missing something. Mostly I am concerned with not using all of the pinion nut threads. The end of the nut is where it is pinched for the locking mechanism.

1973 Camaro, 450hp, Muncie 4-speed, 3.73 gears, reguarly auto-crossed with occational track time.

Thanks,

[big gear head]

The Daytona pinion housing requires a special yoke. The standard yoke is too long on the inner side. You can modify the standard yoke to fit by machining the inner edge and the seal area to work, or just get a yoke that is made for the Daytona. Many people bore the indside of the yoke where the nut seats, but this cuts out some of the spline and gives you less spline contact. I don't recommend doing it this way.

[Blue69Gen1]

Who carries the Daytona yoke? Any recommendations on who to purchase from?

[big gear head]

Most after market Daytona yokes are going to be the 1350 type. I'll check on a 1310 Daytona yoke and see if I can get them. I have modified several of them to work in the Daytona housing.