Wide Track lower A-Arms

[tmcmillan5]

I've got a 68 Chevelle thats ready for front end work and I'm going to put all the new "Improved" suspention parts on it. I do not like how my wheels set so deep in the fender, a good 2" or better. So my thoughts are to modify my Lower A-Arm and hopfully improve the look and my handling in general. What I would like to do is cut my A-Arm a few inches away from its mounting point and add an 1 1/2" or so to extend its length outward. I'm going to run Vari Shock coilovers so I will save room in spring diameter and I will be using SC&C upper Adjustable arms to make up the Camber change. What changes can I exspect the outward position of the shock mount compaired to the pivot point at the frame and how far should I move the Ball joint further forward to make up for modern caster changes.
Your thoughts Please, or have I simply lost my Mind ?

Thanks, Tony

[Chewy72ss]

IMO,


With all that work...you would be better off making a set of tubular lowers.

Chopping up the stock ones would require a strong joint when put back together, as the "extra" section you add will be a new place to focus the stress created by the spring pushing in between the ball joint and bushings.

Also, you have to pay attention to the shock angle created by the extension. Your front roll center height would increase, but that can be adjusted by some Howe ball joints available through SC&C.

If your set on pushin' your wheels out, I'd go tubular. Just use the stock one as a baseline for ball joint/bushing positions, and make improvements from there.

Just some things to think about.

[chicane67]

Talk about opening up a can of worms...

Lengthening the control arms is a great idea... as long as you account for the motion ratio change for the spring rate and damper valving... and pay peticular attention to how much you are changing your scrub radius and where it ends up. You will also need to pay attention to the steering arm height and the related bumpsteer... which means that you will most likely have to run an 18" wheel and tire package to get all of this to not only fit... but to be geometerically correct.

I would start off doing the math for the scrub radius... and then work on the steering arm/tie rod location to improve on the bumpsteer issue that the chassis naturally has. I think you will find that adding 1.75 to 2.00" to the arms is just about right... and you should end up with about 0.700" scrub.

[Nessumsar]

I have nothing to add to this thread, but good luck! And you always impress me Chicane!

[LowBuckX]

I would just get wheels with the correct offset to look the way I wanted them But thats me and my opinion.