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View Full Version : G mod and CCP arms don't mix



aray327
05-08-2008, 10:10 PM
This is a bit of a continuation from my post "why doesn't this thing steer better" https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42839 but I wanted to include photos and couldn't.

I rebuilt the front suspension with new CCP arms, coil overs, sway bars, brakes, etc. (detailed on the other post). While aligning it I was only able to get 2degrees of caster. The shop pointed out that my shafts on the upper arms were so thick coupled with slight settling of the frame over the years that they couldn't get any more adjustment and the arms were against the frame at the front. So I suggested I mill the shafts to allow for greater adjustment. The shop thought that was a good idea, CCP didn't have any issue with it either (I actually asked).

I figured this was a good time to perform the Guldstand mod since I hadn't done it to start and figured it would provide the enhancement to the suspension arc as well as help with the caster. So I followed Dave Pozzi's instruction to a T. Copied the template, enlarged it until my bolt holes were exactly 6.5" apart and lowered exactly as suggested, thanks Dave.

Proud of myself after completing the mod I decided it was time for a test fit. So I tried installing the driver side arm, knowing I would have to deal with the alignment shim (no prob...) only to realize the thick shafts hit the hump in the arm towers BADLY. So I figured I could heat the metal and pound out some of the hump. 40yr old steel is still pretty strong, plus with the motor in the car I didn't have much of a swing. Next I figured I could mill the lower center section that was hitting the hump. This wasn't such a big deal. Finally I milled enough to feel comfortable and test fit again. I realized my arms would hit the outer structural section of the tower (towards the wheel) reducing my suspension travel. That doesn't sound so bad since I was only talking about in the downward direction, but then I thought and looked again and realized that would effect how far down the wheels would come when jacking the front end up, not to mention when the car would be articulated due to driveway angles or whatever, not a good thing.

So just to let others know before they try this combination.

Its difficult to see but under that tape the arm is laying on the arm tower.

Now since I can't do the G mod, what do you think about a tall upper bal joint? Do you think this would give me the benefits I couldn't achieve with the mod?
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David Pozzi
05-09-2008, 08:59 AM
You will usually have some shims between the shaft and mount, so don't worry too much about it hitting with no shims in the shim area. Those shafts are quite thick! Not so good for clearance.

The front area is common, but yours are hitting worse than normal. Many guys have to trim the bracket there, especially with stock arms. Lowering the whole bracket instead of redrilling the holes works well and avoids several of these issues.

Tall balljoints would work as an alternative.
David

TitoJones
05-09-2008, 11:26 AM
Probably not what you'd like to hear, but the SPC arms sold by SC&C would solve most of your issues. Bonus is that they are only $330 per set.

Tyler

aray327
05-09-2008, 03:49 PM
not the first time SC&C arms have been suggested. Since I have the current arms I want to try to use them first. I have already scratched the powder coating and milled the shafts so they are mine now. I also have new inner and outer tie rods, sleves and idler arm. I will get it back together first and see if there is any difference in feel. The CCP arms are designed with 5 degrees of caster. I hope my milling efforts will compensate for any settling of the frame.

aray327
05-12-2008, 12:03 PM
I need to retract part of my comment. Once the upper ball joint is reconnected the arms do not hit the tower support! There is enough movement for proper suspension travel.

However, given the thickness of the shafts they don't bolt in the lower holes very well. I tried grinding down the shafts where they hit the curved section of the tower, however it would still require several shims to mount the arms and it didn't feel or look right. I decided to reinstall in the original location. Sorry I didn't take any photos.