aray327
05-08-2008, 10:10 PM
This is a bit of a continuation from my post "why doesn't this thing steer better" https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42839 but I wanted to include photos and couldn't.
I rebuilt the front suspension with new CCP arms, coil overs, sway bars, brakes, etc. (detailed on the other post). While aligning it I was only able to get 2degrees of caster. The shop pointed out that my shafts on the upper arms were so thick coupled with slight settling of the frame over the years that they couldn't get any more adjustment and the arms were against the frame at the front. So I suggested I mill the shafts to allow for greater adjustment. The shop thought that was a good idea, CCP didn't have any issue with it either (I actually asked).
I figured this was a good time to perform the Guldstand mod since I hadn't done it to start and figured it would provide the enhancement to the suspension arc as well as help with the caster. So I followed Dave Pozzi's instruction to a T. Copied the template, enlarged it until my bolt holes were exactly 6.5" apart and lowered exactly as suggested, thanks Dave.
Proud of myself after completing the mod I decided it was time for a test fit. So I tried installing the driver side arm, knowing I would have to deal with the alignment shim (no prob...) only to realize the thick shafts hit the hump in the arm towers BADLY. So I figured I could heat the metal and pound out some of the hump. 40yr old steel is still pretty strong, plus with the motor in the car I didn't have much of a swing. Next I figured I could mill the lower center section that was hitting the hump. This wasn't such a big deal. Finally I milled enough to feel comfortable and test fit again. I realized my arms would hit the outer structural section of the tower (towards the wheel) reducing my suspension travel. That doesn't sound so bad since I was only talking about in the downward direction, but then I thought and looked again and realized that would effect how far down the wheels would come when jacking the front end up, not to mention when the car would be articulated due to driveway angles or whatever, not a good thing.
So just to let others know before they try this combination.
Its difficult to see but under that tape the arm is laying on the arm tower.
Now since I can't do the G mod, what do you think about a tall upper bal joint? Do you think this would give me the benefits I couldn't achieve with the mod?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I rebuilt the front suspension with new CCP arms, coil overs, sway bars, brakes, etc. (detailed on the other post). While aligning it I was only able to get 2degrees of caster. The shop pointed out that my shafts on the upper arms were so thick coupled with slight settling of the frame over the years that they couldn't get any more adjustment and the arms were against the frame at the front. So I suggested I mill the shafts to allow for greater adjustment. The shop thought that was a good idea, CCP didn't have any issue with it either (I actually asked).
I figured this was a good time to perform the Guldstand mod since I hadn't done it to start and figured it would provide the enhancement to the suspension arc as well as help with the caster. So I followed Dave Pozzi's instruction to a T. Copied the template, enlarged it until my bolt holes were exactly 6.5" apart and lowered exactly as suggested, thanks Dave.
Proud of myself after completing the mod I decided it was time for a test fit. So I tried installing the driver side arm, knowing I would have to deal with the alignment shim (no prob...) only to realize the thick shafts hit the hump in the arm towers BADLY. So I figured I could heat the metal and pound out some of the hump. 40yr old steel is still pretty strong, plus with the motor in the car I didn't have much of a swing. Next I figured I could mill the lower center section that was hitting the hump. This wasn't such a big deal. Finally I milled enough to feel comfortable and test fit again. I realized my arms would hit the outer structural section of the tower (towards the wheel) reducing my suspension travel. That doesn't sound so bad since I was only talking about in the downward direction, but then I thought and looked again and realized that would effect how far down the wheels would come when jacking the front end up, not to mention when the car would be articulated due to driveway angles or whatever, not a good thing.
So just to let others know before they try this combination.
Its difficult to see but under that tape the arm is laying on the arm tower.
Now since I can't do the G mod, what do you think about a tall upper bal joint? Do you think this would give me the benefits I couldn't achieve with the mod?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif