A-Body panhard bar install question

[67goatman455]

I own a 67 GTO, which is basically all stock as far as suspension goes. i am in college and funds are tight and my knowledge is limted so please keep that in mind. i would like to install a panhard bar, because i have noticed there is quite an amount of side-to-side movement. i am currently installing polyurethane bushings in the stock rear control arms, boxing the lower and upper arms and allowing the lowers to accept a rear sway bar. i have gathered by searching that the panhard bar must be perfectly parallel with the rear end. i would like to get any other info i will need to install this correctly. the goal of the car is not meant to be an insane corner carving monster either. i was considering using a competition engineering piece. thank you

[shep]

You should not box the upper arms they have to flex to allow the suspension to move. Also Poly bushings may not be the best choice, do a search. I wish I could find Dennis's web site, he had lots of info on this and had installed a panhard bar on his 68 elky. Boxing the lowers and adding a rear sway bar is a good idea. The Panhard bar should be parallel to the rear and as long as possible.

[MrQuick]

I would not waste time boxing the uppers. Buy a set from UMI, Hotchkis, Edelbrock...etc

Shep, You might have miss read the info on the uppers. You don't want any suspension link to flex or bend unless it was designed to do so. What Den was getting at was you want the uppers to rotate thats why we recommended using the stock style rubber upper bushing.

Also on the PHB we found you actually increase bind if you don't remove the convergance of the lower arms. On the 68 Chevelle we did it made it very tricky to drive on bumpy roads. If you ever driven a lowered Mustang you know what im talking about. A watts linkage will work better with the lowers in stock position.

I hope Den will chime in cause he had more info listed. I know his site is no longer around and its been at least 3 years since I messed with the a bodies.

Shep, where you the guy that converted to a 3 link? I know there was a guy in your area we were talking with.

[67goatman455]

im not saying using solid mounts, im using polyurethane. are you still saying using rubber up top? i will have to see how much uppers will cost. im definetly on a budget constantly. is there a simple watts linkage i can use? i have a gm 10 bolt if that would matter.

[67goatman455]

looked around at some pictures, could i get a rear differential cover that has two bolt locations in the middle, make a bracket to mount center of watts link, and mount the rest of the brackets as normal?

[shep]

Shep, where you the guy that converted to a 3 link? I know there was a guy in your area we were talking with.
Nope it wasn't me if he is close I would like to see it.

Goatman
yes rubber would be better than poly in the upper locations. Spherical bearings http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=187 in the rear housing with rubber at the frame would be better. Spherical bearings in the rear housing with edelbrock or similar arms with Johnnie joints at the frame side would be best.

[MrQuick]

The Wolf race spherical is nice but not really necasarry for a street car. I like the Edelbrock version upper and the rubber bushing combo.

I emailed Den but haven't heard back from him yet.

I wouldn't recommend a cover mount cause there really isn't anything out there strong enought to risk supporting a bellcrank in Chevy form.

You could build a cage bewteen the tank and the diff then weld supports to the axle housing. Can be put together cheaply if you can do the fab work yourself. But the bellcranks aren't cheap either.

[67goatman455]

hmm, well thanks for all of your help, my first post and i have already been blown away. thank you. i will probably end up getting new upper control arms and use which ever bushings come with them. 1 small other question, i will end up getting a hotchkis rear sway bar. is the bigger the better? 1 5/16 is the biggest size they offer. thanks again.

[MrQuick]

Its not the size that matters its how well everything work as a unit. Sometimes its easy to slap on a big bar to make up for inconsistencies else where.

I'd say get it together then tune in the sway bar afterwards. Its the easiest thing to add but expensive if you have to replace cause its the wrong size.
We are here as a been there done that so maybe it will help you save some time and money.

[zbugger]

Its not the size that matters its how well everything work as a unit. Sometimes its easy to slap on a big bar to make up for inconsistencies else where...

I've heard some girls say something similar... Lucky for me, I don't have that problem.

[67goatman455]

ok, thanks for the help. ill start a new thread later on when i am ready to purchase one.

[jackfrost]

a huge rear sway bar will induce oversteer. imagine, as you turn a corner and the body rolls, the sway bar is trying to pick up the inside tire when the outside tire moves up.

if you're just trying to control body roll, work on the front bar. then, adjust understeer/oversteer with the rear bar.